PTS22LCPARBB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

I made my wife fix it.

I followed the onsite video and had no problems. Shut off refrigerator, removed storage trays and bind, removed the rear panel under the light, identified the orange and pink electrical wires and cut them. Spliced the new wires of the thermostat with refrigerator wire and capped them, applied electrical tape to insure no moister makes contact with wires. Replaced rear panel and storage racks and bind. Plugged in the refrigerator and it is operations like new. I was about to purchase a new refrigerator for $ 1,300.00 and the thermostat costed $ 13.00. What a Christmas present!

Checked water inlet tube inside freezer, stuck screwdriver in it to see if there was any ice and it seemed clear. Checked water pressure to fill valve, good pressure. Replaced fill valve, still no water to ice maker. Replaced Ice Maker. Still no water to Ice Maker. Removed freezer back panel, hit fill tube with heat gun after allowing freezer to defrost awhile, replaced back panel, ice maker. Water going to icemaker fine. Problem was that the fill tube was frozen up way at the back where the water line emptys into the icemaker fill tube. Old icemaker and fill valve were probably OK. No real way to check it from outside the case in the rear of the fridge as the water line is sealed on the fill tube and heating it without removing the rear freezer panel does not get back far enough to melt the ice.

Installation could not have been easier!

Did the repair just as the instruction said, once I read it. The part I didn't read was that if the plug was under the ice maker, you had to take the wire out of the clip on the side. So, had to dismount ice maker, unclip wire, remount maker, plug it in. Still under 30 minutes. Thank you.

Everything seemed to be working right, but no cooling, so I tried turning on and off the switch that turns the light on 5 times within two seconds, refrigerator did not shot. so I removed the main board and I notice a short had taken place on one of the relay legs. I ordered the main board and replaced it. The main board is on the back of the freezer covered with a sheet metal panel about 8"x8" and is secured with hex sheet metal screws. Everything is working now. Please make sure to unplug the unit from power before removing the main board.

Removed and replaced control board

I watched the video online and it said there were three sensors in the refrigerator, two in the freezer and one in the refrigerator. I only ordered one sensor and was going to try the one in the refrigerator first. He said the upper one in the freezer is the most difficult, but is usually the problem. So, I replaced the upper sensor and tried restarting the unit. Everything went well and it fixed the problem.

0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.

No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.

replaced lights in refrigirator and freezer

After reading this forum and other searches, I assumed replacing the board may solve my problem. Unscrewed the back plate, used pliers to pull out the connectors, squeezed in the sides of the 4 plastic white board holders to release the board, and then replaced old board with the new one and reconnected connectors. (My model was not one of the mentioned models for cutting the 2nd pin of the J1 connector, so I left it in.) Upon plugging my frig back in, it began working perfectly again. So thankful to have found this forum!

First removed the two screws that holds the old ice maker in place. Unplugged it. The freezer compartment was too narrow to allow the unit to slide out or turn in any other direction. Had to also remove the two front screws from the left side ice bin track and swing it down. The door opening was also too tight. Scratched the plastic door jamb putting the new unit in but other than that all is well and functioning well.

UNPLUG! (Read Instructions for wiring configuration) Remove cover lower back right hand side.Remove ribbon plugs top and bottom you will need to lever back holding tab while pulling plug they will more than likely break dont worry you are throwing this part away., disconnect ground wire, compress plastic holding tabs,
pull off control board, plug in new board push on to holding tabs reconnect ground and turn on refrigerator and check replace cover, everything is now working great.

Removed main control board cover on back of refrigerator (3 screws). Unplugged power to refrigerator and removed electrical connections to control board using a screwdriver. Using a screwdriver disconnected (4) plastic self -locking prongs holding the board. Matched new replacement board with old board. Plugged in electrical connections to new board. Snapped main control board onto (4) self- locking prongs. Reinstalled cover (3) screws. Plugged in refrigerator and tested refrigerator operation.

Removed back cover from unit. unpluged wirring harness installed new control board and refigerator runs lik new