TPX24PBBABB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.

No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.

Disassembled ice-maker, noting what screws went where, what direction ice release control arm pointed, and noting how the control arm spring was mounted. The door assembly comes off first followed by the circular assembly that houses the ice door and last grinding arms. It is quite easy see how it comes apart as you look at the screws. Remove the screw holding the back end of the control arm and note the spring position. The control arm needs to be turned to line up notches to pull it thru a faceplate hole while rotating the arm about the "U" that is on the outside of the faceplate in the door housing. There is a retaining clip holding the rotating impeller to remove to complete the dis-assembly. Use vinegar to clean rust out of bin and other parts around the faceplate. Assemble the unit in the reverse order to complete the job.

The only difficult part was not knowing which parts had to be removed to gain access to the flapper to replace it. It appeared as if the frame around the control panel would have to be removed as well as the door handle; we tried but were not able to remove the frame. It turned out that the panel just popped out with the frame in place. Once we had access to the flapper, it was easy to replace it. The repair fixed the problem.

Let me start by saying, I usually hire something like this out but figured I would give it a try. The install was fairly straight forward, however it would’ve been nice if the instructions would have been more useful. Instructing me to remove one screw to release the auger and solenoid enclosure wouldve been nice. There were 3 other screws that I didn’t need to remove and they were the ones holding the auger in place, which made assembling that much more difficult. Once to enclosure was removed, and the solenoid was exposed, it was a seemless process. I would however, recommend paying attention to or taking a picture of the connections on the solenoid. I was lucky to remember or got lucky. Regardless, I was able to complete the project successfully. If I had to do it again, I believe it can be done in 30 minutes or less.

Replaced flapper valve per website instructions. GE factory technician took two weeks to get here, charged over $100 for the call and told us we needed a new refrigerator door at a cost of over $500 to fix the problem. We sent him packing. After visiting the PartSelect website, the $5.88 PartSelect flapper valve fixed the problem. Amazing.

Opened, discovered not flapper but more complicated

Remove the burned out bulb and install the new light bulb.

Concerned about removing and attaching front panel to broken drawer. Rep. said wasn't sure but most just snapped together. Rep. was correct. No tools required.

Followed the online video. Unplugged refrigerator, removed trim piece, lifted control board cover, removed 4 screws retaining circuit control board and removed the 3 connectors from the control board. Located flapper and removed by using small flat tip to take tension off flapper connectors. Helper held flash light to illuminate flapper connectors. Reversed procedure. New flapper seals well and cured problems. Circuit board was a bit different than one in video, but still had the 3 connectors. Marked each connector with grease pencil at top edge to ensure correct reconnection. Should note how wires are threaded around circuit board to ensure they are tucked back in correctly in reassembly. Remove trim piece carefully. I broke 2 of the 8 plastic pins that hold trim on. May be due to age of unit as they were brittle. 6 pins still hold trim piece flush.

I didn’t do the repair because I ordered two grommets. When they arrived, one of the packages was empty! Instead of just sending me another one, they refunded the part so I still need one. By the way, I was not refunded half the shipping either which was more than the part itself.

I removed the plate covering the water valve for the ice maker and water dispenser, removed the nut holding the 5/16" tubing to the valve and took off the tubing and nut. I did not need to turn off the water supply or unplug the unit. I removed the kick panel in the bottom front of the refrigerator, replaced the existing plastic fitting with a new push-on fitting, then spliced the tubing coming from the water chiller to the valve where the leak was thus bypassing the broken tubing with new tubing. I reassembled the valve using the original plastic compression nut, replaced the cover and ran the water dispenser while checking for leaks. The water dispanser works great with no leaks.

Screwed new bulb in socket

ordered drawer face - perfect part- snapped right in. done. order came within 10 days.
will order again if needed.

Take a thin flathead screwdriver (or metal spatula) to separate the lower molded strip from the handle. Once removed, I discovered two small screws that secure the bottom of the main handle were loose. The head of the screws had five points which required a special drill bit that I had in my tool box. The screws were tightened allowing me to align the replacement Tail strip and snap it in place. Some pressure is needed to secure it to the door. Once you hear the inserts "snap", then check for any open spaces between the strip sides and the door. If none, you're done!

Remove front cover did not remove wires remove ice and water unit took off flapper put new one on 5 minutes back together