PSW26PSWCSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Replaced ice maker. Required the removal of one screw and disconecting the control cable.

My husband did the repair, and even though our refrigerator is roughly 20+ years old, he was able to adapt it to work in all the right spots and we now have ice cubes! I'm very happy we did not have to spend $2000 on a comparable refrigerator.

Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.

Two tabs hold the switch in place. I used a plastic wedge to remove the switch. Removed and replaced the two connectors held in by friction. Painless.

First I replaced the double valve because the ice maker was not filling with water. It still did not work. Then I replaced the ice maker itself. This worked and was relatively easy to replace. I had to use the water fill "slide" from the old ice maker. The new one was too narrow and it leaked water into the freezer.

Just pop the old one out, careful not to lose the wiring inside the ref wall & popped the new one in.

Part arrived very fast as ordered..need to pry old switch out from top..use care to push the retainer down..after old switch was 1/2 out, I used a putty knife for better leveridge.Remove wire connector...after plugging in the wire connector to the replacement switch, make sure the switch is properly positioned so the switch will depress when door shuts.

Replaced flapper

On the PartSelect website, I chose the 'refridgerator is too warm' problem choice. The site sugested replacing the sensors so I purchased them. The drain trough on the refrigerator side was leaking and it and the defrost thermostat were not too expensive so I bought them too.
Once the parts arrived I installed them. I had already disassembled the inside of the freezer. The sensors and thermostat had to be connected electrically. So I cut off the old parts and stripped their wires. (the new parts' wires were already stripped.) I then used wire nuts to connect the new wires to the old and stuffed the wire back into its compartment and installed its cover. The defrost Thermostat has to be clipped to the refrigeration line. So after attaching its wires I had to work it into its place.
I then reassembled the inside of the freezer and let it sit for an hour before turning it back on. Once it was turned on it seemed to work well, but after only 3 or 4 days the coils began freezing over again.

My GE refrigerator emitted high pitch noise a short while ago. I tried different dampening methods that helped but not eliminating the problem. I finally replaced the fan, motor, and associated parts and solved the problem. The total cost was about $50.

So easy.Remove. ice bucket, poured ice into replacement .Reinstalld. No tools. 3 minutes to do

Turned off power, removed cover from Ice maker, checked resistance across thermostat for zero (read open), all other switches read proper value (when activated). Ordered and received thermostat. Removed Ice Maker from freezer, removed two screws holding ice tray to Control Assembly. Removed Thermostat and replaced with new one. Applied Silicone Sealant to face of Thermostat for adhesion to ice tray when assembled. Remounted Ice Tray to Control Assembly and remounted in freezer. Works Great...

i used the video it showed on the site or iwould not have been able to do it

Thanks to others who also gave some detailed instruction on repairs I was able to do the same. I have a GE Profile side by side refrigerator/freezer Model No. PSC25PSSCSS The first repair I did was to remove/replace freezer defrost thermostat sensor that is cliped to condenser tube I snipped the wires close to the thermostat and pulled it off the tube I stripped the ends of the wires and twisted the strands then placed a piece of heat shrink tube onto the wire pushing it away from the exposed wire then I soldered the two color coded wires together then I pulled the heat shrink over the conection and used a lighter to heat up the heat shrink until it sealed the conection repeating this on the othr wire as well. I then removed the Old defrost Heater element by removing to screws then I disconected the two wires by simply pulling the connector plugs off both ends of the heater element assembly. This fixed the freezer being too warm for a short time but it started getting warm again that's when I noticed the defrost fan was not working, when you have the door open to freezer push the door switch in you should hear the fan come to life and blow hard. The fan was replaced I had to remove everything to get to it it's pretty simple to do it just unplugs make sure you order the right fan though My fan comes with the Thermistor already integrated into the plug this makes it easier. This fixed the problem with both Freezer & Refrigerator The Temperatures returned to normal Freezer 0 degrees Refrigerator 37 degrees I also checked out the refrigerator side Condenser I noticed only that the Condensate pan was starting to rust so I will remove it and use some Muretic acid to clean it up and then spray it with some Cold Gavanize with Zinc you can get this spray paint at Home Depot it seals and prevents rust. Or you can order a new one for about $ 16 bucks but it will start rusting just like the old one did eventually if you do order a new Condensate Pan I suggest spraying it before you reinstall it so that it will not rust. Greg H. Eldorado, AR

No instructions came with the replacement control board. A notice that this part supercedes the original circuit board part number would have been helpful, although it is noted on the web site IF you drill into the parts list deep enough. Diagrams on the web site gave a general location for the circuit board.

Swap-out of the boards was relatively easy, although some of the connectors were reluctant to separate.

The new control board solved the overflowing ice maker issue.