GSE20IETAFWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

I tried to quite the noisey evap motor with special liquid motor grease from Radio Shack. It did not work, so I ordered the evap motor. My freezer motor was wired slightly different than the motor I received. The replacement motor had a male plug attached to the four wires, the original motor was different, so I cut the wires and spliced them into the original freezer wires (colors were the same). Remounted motor. Works great, and no more groaning motor
Peter

No tools required, remove from shipping box, wash, remove old ice bucker/ auger assembly, insert new assembly.

NOTE! The product description of the ice bucket size on the PartSelect website is MISLEADING: it is not 20”L x 14”W and the photo grid is wrong. The actual size for this model is approximately 16”L x 12”W x 11.5”H, plus about 3” for metal rod extending out the back. The photo and description seems to be common across several companies. This is the correct OEM replacement for WR17X12138 and works well.

Replaced defrost thermostat along with temp sensor watched the video on this page simple fix

First I removed ice bucket and emptied. I then removed screws that held the covers in place. Next I removed the snapring that held the auger in the covers and removed auger assembly. Replaced both covers and reassembled.

I am 80 years old, female. Repair was a challenge but I was determined as my son said Mom you can do it. The video was wonderful. and I did a lot of rewinding etc. Hardest part was taking apart.. screws tough. All in all not bad. I don't want to do it for a living though!!!!! Ice is now dispensing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I visually inspected the compressor and narrowed down the source of the noise to the freezer area. Then I removed the doors and the screws securing the divider panel. Next I removed the bottom panel of the freezer, the styrofoam insullation panel and the evaporator motor. The motor is mounted between two grommets. I replaced the grommet facing the fan blades. The aluminum reflector below the styrofoam insulation panel had also come loose. I reattached it and reassembled the refrigerator in reverse order. The noise is gone!

several times I had to remove the ice maker door solenoid due to it sticking. I ordered a new one from parts select. Problem solved!!!

I read stories from the website how others did it so I figured I would give it a try. I put all the frozen stuff in the refrigerator piled up. Took out the shelves. Took out 2 screws with a socket extension ( nut driver will work fine.) Remove the light bulb. lifted up on the back panel...it came right out. Saw the coils and on top the sensor. Took it off, cut the wires, spliced in the color coded new one ( pink to pink, orange to orange) Stuck it in the top coil in the original position and crossed my fingers! I put all the pieces back easily, restocked the freezer and waited. HOORAY!! My ice cubes are all separate and free. NO frost inside. A very easy fix for $20.

Note: If there is a large amount of ice build up on your coils a hair dryer works great. The drain is on the bottom anyway. Also , you may want to seal around the wire nuts to keep moisture out. I did

To take the ice dispenser apart is not difficult. A ring removal tool would have helped to remove the auger. The Auger nut was difficult to remove and I used a visegrip to pull it off. Once the retaining ring was removed the repair was easy.
Never did it before but figured it out.

removed 4 screws in order to view and remove auger. removed metal and set washer on back of auger. This step not difficult. This will release auger from plastic ice resovoir. Again, not difficult. Remove plastic nut after removing auger. This procedure will release crushed ice blades and 5 plastic washers, 3 flat and 2 raised. You have got to remember order of blades and washer. Again draw diagram take pictures. Very, very important. Put back as taken apart. Good Luck

Removed front panel (using small screw driver) by popping it out, disconnected wire from solenoid, removed solenoid which was rusted, 3 small philip head screws held it in place insereted new solenoid,connected wire snapped front panel back in. Clapper valve closes tightly and no frost in frezzer, saved my self a bunch of money.

I bought a Flapper replacement part from Parts Select. I installed it following their very complete on-line video directions. Their complete and easy to follow directions made my job very easy, and the work was completed without any problems and just as good as if it were done by a professional repair person. I am proud of my work, it couldn't have been done without their video insructions. Also I got delivery of the part within two days of my order. I will alway look for Parts Select any time I need an applicance repaired. Thanks to Parts Select!

Procedure for Replacing the Ice Chute Plate
1. Turn off the power.
2. Snap off the outside trim ring. Use a plastic screwdriver to avoid scratching the cabinet.
3. Locate the three small holes below the control panel facing, just above ice chute. The center hole is not used. With a small, blunt, object (wire – blunted nail) that is slightly smaller than the holes, push up rather firmly up through the outer holes to release front control panel.
4. Remove the three wire connectors from printed circuit board. Firmly pull/pry them straight out of retaining clip. Use caution: Excessive force will break clips.
5. Release the secondary panel by removing four screws (one in each corner).
6. Remove the flap assembly.
7. Clean all accessible areas with 1/10 bleach water to sanitize. Rinse the cleaned area with clear water and thoroughly dry everything before re-assembling the panel.
8. Install the new flap assembly.
9. Re-installed everything in the reverse order and check the functionality.
10. Order a spare ice chute flapper to be ready for the next event.

I removed the outer plate by sticking a very small screwdriver in the small holes at the bottom of the plate and pulling the plate toward me.
I then removed the 4 screws from the internal plate and pulled the plate toward me.
Then I romoved the 3 screws holding the old solenoid and unplugged it.
Next I put the new solenoid in place and replaced the three screws.
Finally I plugged in the solenoid and replaced the internal and external plates.

I agree with the other posts that suggested taking a picture of the blades and spacers before taking the auger out, makes it so much easier to put it back together in the same way. The only difficult part was holding the two tabs apart while removing the unit, you need a second person to help with this. I used two small screw-drivers to gently pry the clear plastic box away from the white plastic holder, while my helper pulled the holder loose. Keep in mind that the plastic nut that holds the auger in place is a left hand thread. Went back together very easy and it's working great.