GFE28GYNKFS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Jim from Las Vegas, NV
- Parts Used:
- WR71X11052
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
broken plastic door 2 gallon shelf
Our old fridge. broke down. It took 2 months to finally settle with warranty people. 2 months with out main fridge. We bought this one and found a broken shelf. Not wanting to go through warranty people again, I went to partselect and got the right parts right away! Happy camper!
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- Customer:
- Richard from Nesquehoning, PA
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10025
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Fridge wouldn't keep temp
My son replaced both temperature sensors and the fridge works great now!!! Like brand new again!!!!
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- Customer:
- William from Pasco, WA
- Parts Used:
- WR07X10131
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
compressor motor wouldn't start, so no refrigeration
My brother-in-law is a 15 year refrigeration technician who I called and described the problem to. He told me to put an "amp clamp" on the line side of the wires (black) that go to the starting controls on the side of the compressor. The motor has a label that has a number on it (LRA) that he used to determine the max amps it would pull. In this case, if the motor pulled 10 amps, then the motor was bad and I'd have to buy a new refrigerator. It was pulling less then 9 amps so he thought to buy a new overload, since the capacitor checked out (measured by multi-meter). As soon as the part came, I removed the back panel (4 screws removed by nut driver), removed the clip that holds the overload/capacitor assembly, detached the two wires from it, and removed the capacitor from the overload. I swapped in the new overload and repeated the above process in reverse. The only difficulty was that the new part was different in that the plug-in locations for the two wires were in different locations, and not marked. I had to disassemble the old part to figure out how it worked so I could deduce how the new one plugged in. Once that was solved, it was a quick fix. This was not a repair that just anyone could do; it required someone with a lot of experience to help me, and I am an engineer.
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- Customer:
- christopher from collegeville, PA
- Parts Used:
- WR23X37285
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
no light in freezer
Connected the 2 wires and pushed in the switch until it clicked.
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- Customer:
- Jules from Crowley, LA
- Parts Used:
- WR23X37285
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
failed light switch
I started removing the switch by prying on the right side with a screwdriver, when it emerged enough I used pliers to finish removing it. I then unpluged rhe wires from the bad switch and pluged them on the new switch and "poped" it into the hole.
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- Customer:
- paul from east hanover, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WR23X37285
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
refig light did not work
per your instructions
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- Customer:
- Gordon from Sugar Grove, IL
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10025
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
defrost problem (refrigerator/freezer not cooling)
After replacing the Defrost Thermostat, Defrost Heater Assembly, and the Main Board, I concluded that the problem must be the Defrost Thermistor, which I replaced in less than 10 minutes and it fixed the problem! I cut the wires on the old thermistor and connected the new one after stripping the wires and taped the new connections with electrical wire. Fast and easy repair (the last part anyway ;).
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