TFH22JWTAWH General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

removed the door, installed the cam riser, and reattached the door. It took longer to remove the contents in the door than it did to install the cam riser.

I did not realize I needed 2 cams to complete repair. Door cam was riveted in. I had to drill out rivet and replace with nut and bolt. Otherwise it went quite sommothly. At first I just replaced the cam on bottom of refridgerator but door was not quite right when closing. Further inspection showed the door had the other half of cam that also needed replacement. Needed 2 orders. Paid for 2 shippings.

Removed refrigerator door and replaced bottom door pivot with the included mating cam and the door closing cam on the bottom of the door.

I didn't know that there were two mating cams and only ordered the door closing cam which I read online was the problem. It was the number one part on the part select list. The number two part was a kit including the door closing cam and the pivot with mating cam attached. It would have been helpful if there had been some notes that said check condition of both cams before ordering the part. So I have a spare door closing cam and paid an extra $19 including $8 shipping which negated a return.

The repair is easy - getting the right parts the first time is the trick.

i'm glad I read this forum before ordering the part because you need two of the door cams. They're sandwiched together on the lower hinge.

I removed the top door hinge, lifted the door off from the lower hinge and layed it on the counter.

I then removed the lower hinge using a nut driver.
I had to grind the rivot head off that holds the door cam onto the hinge and use a nut & bolt to replace
the rivot.

I Supported the door with wood blocks. Then used a socket wrench to remove both parts of the lower hinge. I had purchased 2 of these plastic closers as recommended. One of them must be cut off with a Dremel Tool or small grinder. A small bolt and nut replaces the rivet that was cut off. Reinstall it just as it was removed. Job complete.
Parts were delivered on time, web site instructions were excellent. I highly recommend PartSelect.com

The old plastic door closer cam on bottom of the the door had broken. What was left of it was held on by a hex head screw. There was also a fiber spacer under the cam that was broken. I made a new one out of a piece of aluminum, but cardboard probably would have worked.

Forgot to mention you have to take the door off first--loosen the two screws on the top hinge and lift the door out of the bottom hinge.

I found the self-closing sometimes won't work well until there is some weight in the door.

Took the door contents out and put them on the counter, took the door off the hinges by unscrewing the 2 screws on the top of the Fridge and lifting the door off the hinge onthe bottom. Then laid down the Fridge on the kitchen floor and replaced the Door Closing Cam, keeping in mind the order of the 3 shims and other things on the bottom of the door. Simple.

took off the panel, took out 4 screwws, took out old flap, installed new flap, put screws back in , and put trim back on.

Your vidio was Brilliant !!i just followed your instructions

1. Unplug the fridge
2. Removed the outer facing of the dispenser outside the freezer door. This is fairly easy, better with a tool (plastic scraper) that won't mar the finish.
3. Removed the plastic plate with labels -- water, ice, etc. This is done by sliding a small jewelers screwdriver into the slots on the left, middle and right in back of the plate. These are difficult to see without a flashlight.
4. Removed the four screws in the panel behind this plate.
5. Unpluged the large cable on the left side after the panel is freed.
5. Removed the rubber "dispenser" button. this just pulls off.
6. Remove the panel
7. Lift flapper up and remove. Clips hold this in.
8. Put new flapper in place.
9. Use reverse order to put back together.
Piece of cake. Ice maker no longer frosts up.!!!!

Remove screw at hinge cover, top of door.
Remove two screw/nuts at hinge and remove hinge while holding door in place.
Lift door off of lower hinge
remove two nut/screws at bottom of door and replace closing cam. Be sure the pivot pin hole in the cam is lined up with the hole in door.

Next drill out rivet holding cam to lower hinge on the refer. Install cam with a pan head screw and nut (to replace rivet). It will help if you remove the plastic grille cover at the bottom of the frige.

Set door back on the lower pin and shut so the the magnetic strip holds the door in place. Re-install the upper hinge loosely. Adjust the door for an even gap and tighten the screw/nuts. Re-install the cover.

A very easy fix.

First of all, It was Christmas and no extra money to pay a repairman.
i got on the computer and started looking for a parts breakdown for an older GE side by side.
I finally found it and located the part I thought we needed.
I looked at several parts dealers and yours had the best price.
anyway it arrived in just 2 days. My son helped me remove the door and we put the new part on and I just saved the cost of a service call.

Thank You

Door needed to be supported before hinge assembly was removed. After replacing broken cam doors aligned and doors closing properly.

Thought I would only need one when I looked at the picture of the parts. Decided to order two just in case and after taking it apart both were broken. Needed two.
Took the top door bracket off and lifted the door off of the bottom bracket. Re-assembled cams, put a little white grease on all moving parts, placed the door into bottom bracket and installed top bracket. Adjusted top bracket to make door line up with edge of refrigerator and all is well.

I removed two screws at the top of the door, lifted the door off. I got lucky: the broken cam was the one on the door (easy to remove), not the one on the body of the refrigerator (tough to remove).
There is a shim which was also broken - no way to know that ahead of time. I bent a 5/8" lock washer flat and it served acceptably as a shim.
It would be helpful if PartSelect.com could include with its listing of the cam, the fact that (1) the shim will probably be needed, and (2) there's a very good chance that you'll need TWO of the cams as well.