DPG21PRDAWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed the door by removing the top hinge and lifting it off the broken bottom hinge/cam assembly. Removed the broken hinge/cam assembly found out why the cam broke the doorstop was bent so I had to order the doorstop also. The ordering of the parts was so easy. They shipped them on Monday and they arrived the next day. I will use Parts Select again

Removed everything from the refrigerator door. Removed the screw holding the cover over the top hinge. Removed the two (8mm) bolts holding the top hinge to the refrigator. Removed the door. Removed the plastic grill/cover and the two (8mm) bolts from the lower hinge assembly. Installed the new hinge assembly. Replaced the closing cam (included in the hinge assembly kit) on the bottom of the door. Put the door back on the lower hinge. Installed the upper hinge. Adjusted the door and tightened the bolts on the upper hinge, and replaced the hinge cover. Done!

At the front of the shelf there is a Phillips metal sheet metal screw that holds the front of the shelf in place. Its removal was fairly set straight forward but removing the pop rivet was awkward and took some time to drill out from the rear metal shelf. Once the rivet was out, it was easy finding a small screw that would hold the shelf in place since I didn't have any pop rivets that would fit sufficiently tight or long enough.

The only difficult part was not knowing which parts had to be removed to gain access to the flapper to replace it. It appeared as if the frame around the control panel would have to be removed as well as the door handle; we tried but were not able to remove the frame. It turned out that the panel just popped out with the frame in place. Once we had access to the flapper, it was easy to replace it. The repair fixed the problem.

First I removed the electrical plug from the back of the freezer that plugs into the icemaker. I then removed the two hex head screws that hold the icemaker to the wall of the freezer and removed the icemaker. I removed the plastic cover, which incidentally protects the gears, by prying it off with a srewdriver. I removed three small nuts(7mm) which holds the internal cam in place. I removed the cam by pulling it off the shaft. Once I got the part from you folks I reversed the procedure that I just mentioned, and put the icemaker back together. It works great. The part with shipping was around $16.00. A new icemaker was roughly $159.00. If I would have called a technician it would have cost around $300.00 to repair.

Replaced flapper valve per website instructions. GE factory technician took two weeks to get here, charged over $100 for the call and told us we needed a new refrigerator door at a cost of over $500 to fix the problem. We sent him packing. After visiting the PartSelect website, the $5.88 PartSelect flapper valve fixed the problem. Amazing.

I had made a dry run at the repair after watching the instructional film provided by part select and it seemed easy enough.
The only problem was that i needed to use the electrical cord extender (provided) to adapt to my plug type. That presented a problm because it needed to be tucked up out of the way to allow the ice bin to clear. Just needed to be creative in how you wrapped the cord behind the ice maker unit before snugging the attachment screws.
Cranking out ice like crazy.

Grill for the water dispenser in the door. All I had to do was drop the new one in place.

Received the new grill in one day after ordering.

I just popped the upper and lower tail handle off, unscrewed the door handle, then I screwed in the new door handle and popped the upper and lower tail handle back on. Easy as pie because I was concerned since I am a female.

Unplugged fridge.Removed 2 screws holding a panel. After panel removed took off old fan and inserted new. Quite simple.

Really simple, I used a can of soup and a small piece of wood set under the door, and tapped it tight with the hammer to hold it in place while I removed the hinge. Two bolts at the bottom and two under the door itself. Installed the new hinge set, bolted tight and removed the shim.
The whole thing took less than 5 minutes

First I pulled the door up to the top hinge and propped it up with phone books. Secondly I used a nutdriver with an 8mm attachment and removed the bottom hinge. Thirdly, I removed one screw from the bottom of the door with a socket and 8mm attachment and removed the broken cam riser. Being careful as to take note of how the cam was positioned. I then attached the new cam riser to the bottom of the door, attached the bottom hinge to the refrigerator, making sure the pieces (cam riser and plastic on bottom hinge) matched up and after everything was tight, removed the phone books. Remember to first remove the vent on the bottom of the refrigerator and it is much easier to maneuver the door if you empty the contents on the inside. Very easy, I am not very mechanically inclined and this is the first job that I finished in the amount of time as stated. Also, do not chance just the riser as both pieces will be worn. Hinge assembly comes with all you will need.

The ice bucket supports had split, and broken away from the refrigerator wall causing the ice dispenser bucket to sag, and bump and grind. The b&g wore away the ice screw support at the rear of the bucket, causing intermittent ice dispensing. The ice bucket was removed to allow access to the ice bucket supports. The supports were attached to the refrigerator by two screws. One along the front side, the other at the rear attached to a protruding tang. One of these broken off, the other was stuck, and had to be forced off its mount. The rear mount was expanded by drilling a slightly larger hole to accommodate a nut and bolt assembly. The new support units were re-attached to the refrigerator front and back using screws and the nut and bolt in the appropriate places. The ice bucket installation was a tad more difficult. The hardware from the original bucket was removed and installed on the replacement bucket. This proved to be a bit tricky remembering the exact location of the parts, and coordinating the screw mechanism with the driver mechanism. The ice fill starter switch is a bit unusual in that it has to go into a slot that is not visible when inserting the ice dispenser bucket into the ice maker compartment. You have to finagle the bucket into place and get all the parts in the correct slots. It was a piece of cake for the average husband.

Followed the online video. Unplugged refrigerator, removed trim piece, lifted control board cover, removed 4 screws retaining circuit control board and removed the 3 connectors from the control board. Located flapper and removed by using small flat tip to take tension off flapper connectors. Helper held flash light to illuminate flapper connectors. Reversed procedure. New flapper seals well and cured problems. Circuit board was a bit different than one in video, but still had the 3 connectors. Marked each connector with grease pencil at top edge to ensure correct reconnection. Should note how wires are threaded around circuit board to ensure they are tucked back in correctly in reassembly. Remove trim piece carefully. I broke 2 of the 8 plastic pins that hold trim on. May be due to age of unit as they were brittle. 6 pins still hold trim piece flush.

I simply removed 6 screws that held bucket to face and pit on new bucket and put it back in freezer works great