MSK22GRBKAD General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Part was easy to find on website. Part was delivered quickly. Reapir was easy, just replaced old hinge with new hinge.

removed the door hinge assembly & replaced it with the new assembly.

Supported the door on the bottom them removed the 3 screws holding hinge to door. Installed new hinge assembly. Had a litle trouble installng screw in bottom of door due to alignment issues with cam & metal piece. It finally went in when I loosened 2nd screw in bottom of door.

Remove the hinge cap on top, the loosen the bolts, remove the hinge. Pick up the door from the lower hinge, lay it down and place the cam riser on the lower hinge. Replace the door, install the top hinge and check the alignment and you are done.

After recieving the part overnight (Very unexpected speedy delivery!) I propped the freezer side door up with a 4x4 and 2x4 and the old part came right off and the new part went right on with no hassels, Done in less than 15 min!!!!
The new part even came with step by step easy to follow directions.

removed door, removed old cracked riser aand replaced with new. You have a easy to follow parts site and very good prices. I will use you for all my future repairs.

I removed the top hinge, lifted the door off the bottom hinge, rmoved and replaced the bottom hinge assembly, and reinstalled the door. I then aligned the door and reinstalled the upper hinge. The fridge works just like new!

I hung the new shield on the two inside pegs that were already there.

Cake walk repair.

Unload the door then close it.
Remove screw holding plastic cover over hinge on top.
Remove 2 bolts attaching the hinge on the door.
Slowly open and lift door off of bottom hinge lay on counter.
Unscrew bolt, insert new cam, tighten bolt ,set back on bottom hinge, center install top hinge, tighten and install cover. tool me 6 minutes.

Under the control panel there are three small holes. Insert ballpen or small flat screw driver on both outer holes to push a tab lock that holds the control panel in place. Then pull out control panel and three set of wires will be exposed and disconnect wire connectors (connectors have different sizes so you wont get confused in reconnecting). Unscrew four screws on each corner that holds the ice dispenser assembly (a part where you push your glass against to dispense ice or water. The flapper is exposed and easy to replace.

Turn off power
Remove operator faceplate by pullling out on outer lower corners
Disconnect wire connectors from circuit board
Remove four screws from dispenser and pull out dispenser assy
Replcae Door ASsembly
Put everything back in place
Power up
Job Done

Removed 2 screws holding top hinge. Removed door. Removed 2 screws that holds the door stop and cam riser replaced cam riser, provided, replaced stop and screws. Removed 2 screws holding lower hinge replaced with hinge, provided, replaced screws. Put door in place and replaced top hinge and srews. Job done

unclipped and replace with new part.

Look at various pertenant DYI articles and videos on the internet. Replaced water filter with bypass plug. Checked water flow to icemaker water solenoid. Ran icemaker diagnostic test which failed. Ordered replacement. On receipt of replacement, began replacement work. To wit: Pulled fiidge from wall and unplugged. (Not necessary to shut water off.) Removed small freezer basket. Unloaded main freezer basket, removed it then removed the freezer door. (A screw on each side bolts the door rail of the chassis slide to the freezer chassis slide.) Loosened screws on rear, top of partition between icemaker and small freezer basket. Pushed up on partition front and popped out U-bar supporting partition bottom being carefull not to bend it. Removed same. Removed screws from partition and set aside. Removed grilled "thingy" between rear of icemaker and partition. Now have access to icemaker screws. Loosened the screws, pushed up and out and carefully let it hang by it's connector. Fiddled with the connector locking tabs and finally got it loose. Compared old and new icemaker. Have to keep the old water funnel. The new wiring harness was stiff and the connector had a different orientation. Twisted both the wiring harness and connector to align connector while the icemaker hung by it's cable being careful not to let the icemaer slip and fall to the bottom. After much fiddling, got the connector inserted and locked. Set icemaker over the two screws, pulled it down and tightend the screws. Put the old funnel into the new unit being very careful to get it right the first time. Put grilled "thingy and the partition and U-bar back in, put door back on, put the ice cube bin back, freezer drawers bac and reloaded the frozen food, plugged fridge in. Done! Time to replace icemaker was about 20 minutes and another 2 hours to do the rest ofthe work. Still required only a nutdriver and phillips.

Not really sure of the age of this fridge, as we bought the house 2.5 yrs ago.

I'm one who if it can go wrong, it will, so not realizing how stable the door was from just having the top hinge and the magentic gasket, I declined to prop the door up on blocks the way some guys say the did, and instead removed the top hinge and lifted the whole door off the bottom hinge. I traced the outline of all parts with a felt pen before removing them, figuring I'd need witness marks to help with realignment after the install.
Nut driver might've been an easier choice than the socket set, but the only ones I have a brittle and I've broken the 5/16"...
All parts came out/off easily. The new bottom hinge and the old top hinge (both on the fridge side) practically aligned itself right on my marks, and the new cam (door side) just needed to be held while the screws were tightened. I used the extensioni rod off the ratchet to drive the screws most of the way (making a nutdriver out of it).
Parts were exactly as advertised, although there was a note in the package that stressed the need to replace both parts at the same time due to material differences in the original and replacement parts. Since the cam is sold separately without the hinge, it would be good for the website to reflect that before the purchase is made. Also, even though it was only the cam on the hinge and not the whole hinge that needed to be replaced, I could've bought hte two cams separately and drilled out the rivet as another person had done, but for the $5 difference in cost, why bother?
Door now closes itself as designed, albeit slower than the freezer side, but the Wife says it always did that.
Also interesting that when first assembled, the door DIDN'T close itself at first... not sure it it needed to wear a litle, or if it just needed the added weight of having items back in the door shelves.
Love the great website... just typed in the model number and the parts I needed, complete with drawings to make sure, were right there. Great UI.