GSS25IYNYHFS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Used a 2" putty knife to lift off the old switch. Disconnected the broken switch and replaced it with the new one. Took about 1 minute.

frig ran to much and pump on to long noticed light switch sticking when door was opened replaced the light switch took care of the problem the switch controlles more than just the light popped out with a screwdriver careful to find the side of it that has the retainer clip on it and the direction of the switch in correct position so it goes off when you close the door flat side facing the back a 2 minute job at most

Took old tray out put new tray in

and a rat recently got trapped in the house while the owner was away. The rat chewed the grill quite a bit too. The repair was accomplished using a phillips screwdriver on the two screws which attach the grille to the refrig.

No tools needed - simply a middle hydrator drawer replacement. Pulled out old (broken) drawer and slid in new replacement.

slipped the part in , attached the spring, that was all it took

It couldn't be easier. Just pry out the old broken switch with a flat blade screwdriver. start at the bottom in case you scratch the door by accident. When the bottom is out - pull the switch out slowly and disconnect the two wires that are attached to the top, taking care to remember which color lead is connected to which wire. Then, take the new switch and connect the proper wires to their respective terminals and push the switch into the slot. Done!

Easy. Followed the video instrucations. the part was right there next to the compressor.

i followed all the other submited solutions. really easy. popped out the broken light switch with thin tip screwdriver. careful not to let wires slip into compartment. then attached wires as i pulled them off broken switch. then carefully pop the new switch back in the slot. when i was younger i worked for an appliance repair company. i felt confident in this repair.

Remove the ice bucket assy. Slider attaches with two screws in the left hand side and one thru the icemaker that attaches it to the track. Just about as easy as it gets.

Condenser fan motor was running slow. This was not a problem included in your list of possible problems. I thought that maybe the capacitor was bad but have no way to check it. So I ordered one. when I received it, I installed it. That was not the problem. So I ordered a fan motor and installed it. That was not the problem. So finally I ordered a control board and installed it. That solved the problem. So maybe you should put "cond.fan motor runs slow" in your list of possible faults and what causes that problem. Capacitor was easy to install, simply remove the cover plate, flip off retaining wire, unplug the capacitor and replace. Fan motor was a bit more difficult. It must be removed from mount after fan scroll is removed. Remove one screw that holds scroll, bend the top down and remove. Then pull hard on fan blade to remove it. It must be installed on new motor. Two screws in frame mount can be removed with some effort if you have a 1/4" drive ratchet with a Phillips screwdriver bit. Then pull frame open and install new motor. Push fan blade on new motor shaft hard. Replacing control board was easy. I used a pair of long nose pliers with 90 degree bend to get mounting pins closed to pull board off.

Used a small screw driver to remove the damaged switch. Carefully unhooked the two wires and hooked the wires to the new switch. Pushed the new switch into place. Be careful that the wires do not pull back into the refrigerator wall. Took about 15 minutes. Works like New. Easy fix.

Pried the switch on the bottom with a flathead screwdriver, twisted it and the switch came out far enough to take it out by hand. The bottom of the switch has to be raised upward a little because the connectors are on top of the switch. Changed the wires from the old switch to the new one, one at a time. Insert the new switch. Saved a repair call, and probably a more expensive switch. Less then 15 minutes.

I replaced the thermostat, temperature sensor, and the run capacitor. . . Refrigerator still not cooling. I checked the start relay and measured the input terminals on the compressor for the correct resistance. . . Everything measured correctly. In a last ditch effort before calling for service, I pulled the main board, inspected it and saw the problem right away. One leg on the compression capacitor had desoldered itself. Got out my soldering iron and applied a good amount of solder to that point. Put everything back together and turn it on. . . Problem fixed. The compressor kicked on right away and started cooling the refrigerator.

Pried out the old light switch, disconnected electrical, reconnected electrical in new switch, pushed new switch back into door.