GSS25IYNYHFS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

The repair did not go exactly the way it was described in the YouTube video, but basically it was similar. After unplugging the power cord, emptying the freezer, removing the shelves and the ice reservoir, I removed the ice maker assembly by unscrewing a Philips head screw and unplugging the power connector. The connector had little retaining tabs on each side that I pried open with a straight blade screwdriver. Then the ice maker lifted right out. Next I removed one screw holding the auger motor assembly, unplugged the power connector, and lifted out the assembly. This where things got difficult. After flailing around a bit, I removed the panel on the back wall of the freezer below the evaporator fan assembly, exposing the evaporator coil. I saw that the fan assembly was attached with two screws at the top and two screws at the bottom. The top screws were easily removed, but when I removed the bottom screws, which were situated in very tight quarters, I DROPPED BOTH SCREWS DOWN BEHIND THE EVAPORATOR COIL. Be prepared with a magnetic nutdriver so this doesn't happen to you. I could not retrieve the lost screws, but fortunately it appears that the top screws hold the assembly securely enough. The assembly was loose, but it was still attached by a power cord that I could not disconnect. I removed the tracks on the side walls for the ice bucket, and then I could maneuver the fan motor assembly just enough that I could reach over the top of it, grab and pull off the old fan blade, and slide the new fan blade onto the shaft. Reassembly was straightforward, replacing each part (except two lost screws) in reverse order to disassembly. After getting everything put back in and plugging in the power cord, I was amazed at how quiet it ran.

The three bulbs would then remain on, so I loosened them to keep them off. I didn't know that the cooling system also would stop when the door was open, so for two days only the side freezer was operational. When I discovered that, I hot glued the switch button off, while I searched for a replacement part. The replacement part was an exact duplicate. A simple prying out of the old switch - using a screwdriver, and the reconnection of the two wires connectors to the new part, and clicking back in place ... done. Seriously, it took two minutes.

The replacement frame arrive fast and as ordered. Used the two rollers from the broken bin frame to install on the new frame. Also the glass shelf does not come included, so transfer that from the old bin frame.Total time of replacement was less than 5 minutes.

Pulled the broken part out, cleaned under the pan, then slid the new pan into the guides. Quickest repair this grandma has ever done.

Removed broken switch with plastic scraper (press tension latch on bottom), moved two wire terminals to the new switch and pressed the new switch into the hole.

UNPLUG the fridge Pop out the control on the front disconnect the 3 wire set take out the 4 screws take the paddle out put the new on in its super easy

1. Emptied the crisper pan,
2. Removed it from the refrigerator,
3. Flipped it upside down,
4. Removed the old one by pulling it off,
5. Replaced it with the new OEM part. and
6. Reversed the process.

Simply took the old drawer out, and slid the new one in. Took 30 seconds, and voila! All fixed.

Removed ice bucket and emptied it, storing ice cubes temporarily in another container; Removed broken support and replaced with new. Removed rotor/crusher assembly from ice bucket assembly, replaced broken rotor (other vendor), reassembled ice bucket, filled with stored cubes and reinstalled in freezer.

The 2 wire baskets FZ with their handles replaced one shelf in the freezer. Thus there was improved utilization of the capacity. When we originally filled the freezer, it was obvious that about 2 cubic feet were not used. Part numbers are WR21x10060 and WR12x10626. A similar situation is in the refrigerator side. We added the snack drawer and shelf pan assy. (replacing one glass shelf) and the shelf module FF to the door. Part numbers are WR32x26244, WR71x10685 and WR71x38318. I had to work with Parts Select Customer Service to identify the correct parts since they are not on the BOM for this model, but are on BOM's for similar capacity refrigerators. The service representatives were very helpful.

I just moved the moving parts from the Frame for the humidity level from old to new and all was OK

Clear freezer items in the area of repair as light assembly is in the back of the freezer. Suggest removing shelving in the same area to provide more working space. Utliize a small flashlight to provide interior lighting. Use a stubby phillips screwdriver to remove fastener securing the light cover.
Cover snaps out to remove light board assembly. Gently pull to disconnect the electrical connection to the light board. Then pull the light board assembly from the mounting posts securing the light board. Be careful not to snap either posts or the light board.
To install the new light board, I found it easier to connect the electrical source first, then push the light board onto the plastic posts to secure the light board. There are holes in the light board to insure a secure fit. Reinstall the light cover and reinstall the mounting screw. All done in less than 5 minutes!

My father called and asked me if I knew where he could get a new switch light for his refrigerator. I came across your web site and found the part right away. In less than 3 days the part came and my father put it on. He said it was easy and that it was great to have the part come to him instead of having to search all over town. Thanks so much for the fast, easy service.

I located the light switch at the bottom of the area where the door closes. I just popped it out with a small screwdriver and installed the new switch. A 2 wire connecter and small clip is all there is to it.

I got the model # off the fridge, ordered the part online. The part was fairly cheap and was at my house 2 days after I ordered it. It was the exact part and I installed it in about 15 minutes and everyting worked out fine and easy and cheap, under $15 total to fix the issue. All I needed to do was use a flathead screwdriver to "pop" out the old switch, remove the 2 wires off the wire connection points, put the wires on the new switch and push it back into place. easy. Great place to get exact parts and fast shipping.