CSB48YP2NFS1 General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

There were only 3parts listed to check omed out the defrost heater and thermostat ....thermistor checked bad ordered replacement took less than 2 minutes to replace after I defrosted it again runs fine

unscrew filter and replace the new one

Removed water filter and inserted plug (works great and water flow increased)

Unplugged the refrigerator first....then on the inside of the fridge, I popped the temp sensor cover off (upper LH side) and exposed the old sensor. I snipped off the old sensor about 3" down from the end and connected the new sensor (which I trimmed down to about 3" long) with some heat shrink wire nuts/connectors. Let the fridge run for a day or so and confirmed the problem was solved! Oh yeah, there was no way to tell the 2 wires apart (power vs. ground) on the sensor. However there was a manufacturer's stamp on the wires. So note the orientation of the text and mark one of the wires with a sharpie on both the old and new sensor before trimming. This will give you a reference for which wires to connect when adding the new sensor to the old wires.

Temp. Sensor was under an egg shaped cover on the left side wall in the refrigerator. Remove the cover, cut the two wires to the old sensor and remove it. Connect the new sensor to the two wires using butt connectors. Replace cover and done.

Adding a small amount of water to the filter would resolve the problem for a week or two. So, I thought this was an issue with the filter and decided to try the bypass cap to help zero in on the problem. The bypass cap had no instructions concerning the need for O ring so it was trial and error. The O ring was not needed. After installation of the bypass cap, no water flow resulted and I had to replace the filter. Intermittent problem continues.

Easy, with included video and instructions

followed part select video instructions

I have a GE Profile French door refrig. It's only about 4 yrs old and the defroster stopped working. I read the other repair stories and was able to narrow it down to either the temp sensor, defrost timer, or main board. The refrig section was up to about 47 degrees and freezer was around 25. I could tell it was trying to cool but couldn't. So I tried the temp sensor first. I cut and spliced the new sensor on the outlet of the Evap. Coil and it took about 15 mins. Turned refrig back on and waited. The coil started to ice over after about 5 hrs I left the back panel off so I could see if and when then heater kicked on. After about 8 hrs I looked in and saw a faint glow and water trickling down and running out the drain. Turned out the sensor was bad and wasn't telling the main board it needed to defrost. I would try the sensor if you are having the same issues before spending a lot of money on the main board, defrost heater and or timer.

Remove everything from the freezer. Suggest buying new rack holders when replacing the fan. I would suggest people who are not mechanical savvy to put drops of different colored nail polish on the screws and sensors so the know where to put them back. The job was quick and saved money from having to have someone else repair it.

it was easy the only thing was i had to cut old harness to remove 2 wires that went to coil that had to go back in the new harness other then that a peice of cake.

Replaced above parts and the noise problem was not resolved. Ordered a new motor, fan blade and another set of grommets from PartSelect. The parts were delivered the next day. Took me about 15 minutes to swap the new parts in. It's been 3 days since the repair and the noise has not returned.

My refrigerator was making a high pitched kind of howling noise. The PartSelect symptom that was closest was “unusual noise” and when I clicked that it said the evaporator fan motor fixes the symptom 32% of the time. Since my freezer fan speed sounded like it was constantly changing I went ahead and bought one which PartSelect delivered promptly. The installation video was great and although my freezer was not identical to the one in the video, the video was still very helpful. The only thing it didn’t say was how to tell if my freezer motor was the one with the thermistor although I suspect that they all are and that PartSelect is simply trying to save us money by showing us how to splice in a motor without a thermistor. Anyway, since I would have had to disassemble the freezer before buying the part to find out for sure, I just bought the one without the thermistor. This just meant I had to splice the new motor in, just like in the video. I think I would have preferred buying the motor with the thermistor even though it was more expensive. In the end my problem is solved so I’m happy. This is the third time that I’ve had to repair this GE refrigerator and PartSelect has been a valuable resource each time.

followed you online video and it was easy and simple repair only took about an hour frig is back quiet and working fine thanks also parts come fast

i followed a video that was on your site, the video couldn't have been easier to follow it was step by step and very easy to follow, i replaced the evaporator fan motor and everything is working fine, i did notice that the evaporator coil was frozen pretty bad when i removed the back freezer panel i am going to check it again in a couple of weeks to make sure i don't have a defrosting problem as of now everything is fine i am hoping it was just the bad fan motor causing the coil to freeze up because of no air movement over the coil