GSE23GGPECWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

It was so darn easy! Took less then 10 minutes to fix. Self explanatory no instructions needed! Very cool!

Replaced flapper valve per website instructions. GE factory technician took two weeks to get here, charged over $100 for the call and told us we needed a new refrigerator door at a cost of over $500 to fix the problem. We sent him packing. After visiting the PartSelect website, the $5.88 PartSelect flapper valve fixed the problem. Amazing.

Knew the switch was bad. Researched on the internet how to fix. Used a steak knife to pop the old one out, changed the contacts to the new switch and popped it back in. It took longer to open the box than it did to replace the switch. And the part arrived 2 days after I ordered it.

In preparation, I removed the bottom crispers and shelf to clear space, and removed the hood and items above the tank near the light. You'll need to also move the fridge away from the wall to access the back. Installation seemed very easy - two screws holding the tank itself, one hose to the water supply in the back, and another to the bottom of the freezer door to dispense. Then the hard part started after it was installed. First, I could hear the click but no water was coming out. After several views of youtube videos, I realized there was a plug in the hose to the supply side. Duh! So now I had water, but also a slow drip when drawing water. I believe the issue was that I was not pushing the hose on firmly enough, and eventually I got it right. Also, you need to understand the connector: there is a little ring around the place the hose fits; pushing it TOWARD the housing releases the hose, and pulling it back AWAY locks the hose it place. That was not clear to me without watching a youtube video.

Let me start by saying, I usually hire something like this out but figured I would give it a try. The install was fairly straight forward, however it would’ve been nice if the instructions would have been more useful. Instructing me to remove one screw to release the auger and solenoid enclosure wouldve been nice. There were 3 other screws that I didn’t need to remove and they were the ones holding the auger in place, which made assembling that much more difficult. Once to enclosure was removed, and the solenoid was exposed, it was a seemless process. I would however, recommend paying attention to or taking a picture of the connections on the solenoid. I was lucky to remember or got lucky. Regardless, I was able to complete the project successfully. If I had to do it again, I believe it can be done in 30 minutes or less.

First, turn off power - since I did not want to pull the refrigerator out on my wood floor I tripped the circuit breaker to that circuit and opened door to make sure interior light was off (ensuring power was off). This unit has a bottom freezer, I took out all shelves, ice maker and all parts in the way of accessing back of interior of freezer section. Removed back plastic section by removing one screw in middle top of back panel and prying it out. This was a bit difficult as it was in there a bit tight but once the plastic warmed up it pulled out ok. This revealed the compressor section and temp sensor that was attached to the copper coils with of all things - a zip tie! In pictures of this that I looked at on various web sites the sensor was on a metal bracket attached to the coil so it made me wonder if tf the factory took a shortcut? I cut the old sensor wire, stripped the two wires 1/2", and connected them to the new sensor wire with butt connectors, I put some silicone into the ends of the butt connectors to prevent moisture from entering into connectors and wrapped the connection in black electrical tape. I then "attached" the sensor to the coil using a zip tie, put the plastic back piece back on, inserted everything I took out and put power back to refrigerator. It's been 3 days and temp of refrigerator is stable, ice maker not clogging up, and compressor not running all the time! So far so good.

I watched the video a couple of times and followed the instructions exactly and the repair was very simple. This repair took me a bit more time than I thought it would just because I followed the steps methodically.

But the video was perfect to guide me through the procedure to replace this part. One of the longest parts was removing the shelving and food storage bins, cleaning them, drying them and then putting them back in after the tank was installed.

I thought this was my problem as this part causes 90% of the no water issue. However, replacing this part did not fix my problem. I suggest that you test the valve first by disconnecting the water feed from the filter and running the line into a bucket. Once disconnected press the water on the freezer door and see if water comes out.
Other than that, this part is easy to install. Take off the plastic in front of the filter, remover the retaining screws. Remove lower cover in back of the refrigerator, Remove 1 screw securing the valve, remove cover where tubes enter the refrigerator. Take off tubes from valve (be sure to note what is inlet and outlet) and feed back into refrigerator. Be sure to save the putty when the new one is installed.

Cut old tubing in frig with wire cutters and pulled through the bottom wall and removed old tnak from the wall...Installed new tank and ran tubing down trough lower wall and connected to the valve and the freezer door.

First I removed the ice tray rack lifting it out of the way to reach the back cover of the fan. Then, the whole back inside panel had to be removed. Two screws removed the fan and bracket from the freezer unit. The missing bumper lid just snapped into place. Replaced everything in reverse order. Pretty easy job.

The only difficult part was not knowing which parts had to be removed to gain access to the flapper to replace it. It appeared as if the frame around the control panel would have to be removed as well as the door handle; we tried but were not able to remove the frame. It turned out that the panel just popped out with the frame in place. Once we had access to the flapper, it was easy to replace it. The repair fixed the problem.

Instructions are available by internet or even a video from a handyman. Pull fridge, turn off water supply and disconnect power. Remove lower panel in back of fridge, remove water line from quick disconnect plug - transparent line (just push white plug and pull line (careful with residual water - not much on back plug). Remove bottom front grill and disconnect water line from quick disconnect plug at bottom of freezer door - watch out for water. Remove bottom three panels in the fridge and unscrew water tank, pull it out with the water lines. Insert water lines through holes and screw in the water tank. Connect water lines to their respective quick disconnect plugs. Turn water on and power on. Replace back panel and front grill.

Replaced flapper. Followed the video. The lamp caused the removable plastic bracket (which supports the control panel and the ice chute) to fuse with the plastic frame in the door. Eventually broke the fused plastic, removed the bracket, and filed the rough broken plastic before reassembly.

installed replacement part with two original philips head screws.

I followed the video for my model refrigerator on parts select. My hint: when returning the back panel of the freezer, it's slightly adjustable left and right to avoid grazing the fan.