GFE28GMKSES General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed back wall cover over coil. Defrost all ice with a hair dryer. Cut white wires and replaced Temperature Sensor. It has been working for a week and no trouble at this time. If you have this system on your GE refrigerator do this before replacing the motherboard. I must admit I was thinking that was the trouble. Motherboard was replaced after 5 years old now 5 years later my thinking is this a 5 year problem. So try the Temperature Sensor.

I ordered the correct part, the box said it was the correct part and when I opened the box a completely different part was inside. Not only was it the wrong part but it was loosely wrapped with very thin plastic and the hinge was broken off of the lid and laying in the box. I have called and emailed for help and was told no one was available to help because of COVID 19. One email was answered to return the part I would have to pay shipping and the part could not be damaged. Okay, the part was wrong, the part was broken. Now what should I do? Please respond.

The replacement part comes as an egg-shaped assembly with a receptacle for the socket. I cut the power to the fridge, although that was probably not necessary. The old assembly could be pried out with a fingernail, and the socket can be removed by pressing a small tab. The socket then slides right into the new assembly, which can then be pressed into place before turning the power back on. All refrigerator lights are then at full strength.

Safety first, unplug fridge. Had to remove the top access panel, which consisted of 5 screws. Got access to the door switches. These are removed from the panel by depressing the plunger on the switch and sliding them out of the retainer. Transferred the wires over to the new switches one for one. Re-assembled. Dispenser works.

1 opened door 2. pryed cover off from cieling 3.cut and stripped wires on 4. sodered wires from old wires to new sensor. 5 insulated conection.6 put cover back on. This did not fix the problem it was the control moduel.

Purchased parts per your diagram and went to a appliance store to see how it was assemble

Pull the fridge out from the wall.
Close the water supply valve.
Unplug the appliance.
Using a nutdriver , remove the panel at the lower rear. Set aside.
Disconnect the water supply line from the solenoid valve.
Using the nutdriver, remove the defective water valve.
Disconnect the electrical connector noting orientation.
Remove the black safety device from the valve where the quick connect line goes to the dispenser. Depress the ring on the fitting and remove the gray dispenser line.
Discard the defective valve.
Insert the dispenser line into the quick connect fitting on the new valve. Ensure that the line goes all the way into the fitting.
Reconnect the electrical connector.
Install the valve and connect the supply line.
Reinstall the panel.
Open the supply line valve.
Plug in the refrigerator.
Test. There well be some gurgling as water refills the system.
If no leaks and water dispenses properly, push the fridge back against the wall.
Enjoy!

I followed the directions included with the water filter and it was simple. The only problem I had was not being strong enough to easily remove the old filter. I did accomplish that after a few tries and the rest is history.

follow the easy instructions replace 3 temperature sensors cut the wires and crimp them with new sensor and it works like new

Used a vidieofrom utube that described a similar situation.

https://youtu.be/VhVVK1pnupc

The only difference from this video was that my unit did not have the 2 screws that this video shows to remove.
I used the plastic knife to pry open the cover of the unit from that point everything internally was about the same.

I ended up ordering two valves, both of which were defective (bad) and would not pass water, for a total of $116.66. Then I had to get a service tech to install yet another valve (also a GE part) that was good and that fixed the problem (for another $187.00 charge). These parts seem to come from Canada or beyond so be careful if you order them as they too may be bad. I finally received a refund for one but I'm still hunting for a USA address to return the other one I need a refund for...good luck.

It snapped in place.

I didn’t open the part till I verified it was the same. Then I detached the assembly from the fridge and swapped the water lines individually. The metal bracket had gotten bent a little in shipment, but straightened easily and all went back together.

I determined one of the five LED lights in the refrigerator was dead by swapping it with a working one. The refrigerator lights are wired in series and if one of the lights is dead the remaining ones turn on, but very dim. I called PartSelect.com and thanks to their help we determined the correct part to order which is the oval-shaped cover LED assembly which includes the cover, LED, and female connector. The part from PartSelect arrived in three days. The oval-shape LED plastic Cover assembly is mounted on the refrigerator and held by a couple of side latches. First unplug the refrigerator and then proceed to lightly pry the oval-shaped cover side facing the rear of the refrigerator with your finger nail to remove it. With the LED cover removed you can then press on the LED connector tab to slide it off. Now slide the female connector of the replacement part to the refrigerator male connector and snap the oval-shape plastic cover onto the refrigerator receptacle and then plug it back to its outlet. Now all the lights in the refrigerator should light up brightly! That's all folks. Hope this helps. Good luck. Yours truly.

The overload protector was the problem. It plugs into the side of the compressor and the run capacitor plugs into it.

If you pull the overload protector and it rattles when you shake it, that's probably your diagnosis.

The replacement is different from the original and the wire connectors are different. Hold the thing in the same orientation as if it were plugged in. The vertical connector goes to the neutral wire, which on my fridge is orange. The horizontal connector is for the overload, which for mine is black and white. If you have a schematic you should verify the wires yourself.

Anyway, the refrigerator now works like new.