GSE25METBCBB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Used small screw driver to pry the top of the switch away from left inside wall of freezer side of side-by-side refrig./freezer; then used pliers to remove the switch; then removed the 3 prong socket and plugged it to new switch and installed it into the inside wall of the freezer.

The installation was quite easy, especially if you still had the old one for visual (I didn't). Snapped in easily once you got the geometry correct. Hook the right side first, bend slightly in the middle and it should snap into the slot on the left. What I didn't account for was that the entire unit was no longer working (kept filling water in tray and overflowing) so I ended up having to buy an entire ice maker replacement unit anyway. Be careful if you do buy the replacement unit though. Not all parts are actually universal for all models (I.e., stripper arm and refill cups vary) so hold onto your old parts just in case.

My son replaced both temperature sensors and the fridge works great now!!! Like brand new again!!!!

Remove ice tray, turn off ice maker lever, then remove what's left of old Stripper Arm. Then align the Stripper Arm tab (one with hole in it on right) with 1/4" long cylindrical metal peg. Holding peg in Stripper Arm hole, guide the left hand side tab into the groove on the Icemaker housing. Make sure the tines of the Stripper Arm are on top of the Icemaker metal body. Assuming you keep the peg in the hole and the left side plastic tab into the groove on the Icemaker body, you should be good to go. Turn Icemaker lever back on, then insert ice tray. You should hear the first batch of ice cubes start to drop within a few minutes. Enjoy!

Removed control panel. Snapped out pretty easily. Removed flapper assembly (4 small screws). Replaced micro switch by prying it away from its holder (unsnaps easily). Disconnected the two wires leading to the micro switch and connected them to the new microswitch and reinstalled switch in reverse order. Cost of switch, approximately $13 including shipping. Saved a ton of money doing it myself.

Unplugged the refrigerator first....then on the inside of the fridge, I popped the temp sensor cover off (upper LH side) and exposed the old sensor. I snipped off the old sensor about 3" down from the end and connected the new sensor (which I trimmed down to about 3" long) with some heat shrink wire nuts/connectors. Let the fridge run for a day or so and confirmed the problem was solved! Oh yeah, there was no way to tell the 2 wires apart (power vs. ground) on the sensor. However there was a manufacturer's stamp on the wires. So note the orientation of the text and mark one of the wires with a sharpie on both the old and new sensor before trimming. This will give you a reference for which wires to connect when adding the new sensor to the old wires.

Temp. Sensor was under an egg shaped cover on the left side wall in the refrigerator. Remove the cover, cut the two wires to the old sensor and remove it. Connect the new sensor to the two wires using butt connectors. Replace cover and done.

There were only 3parts listed to check omed out the defrost heater and thermostat ....thermistor checked bad ordered replacement took less than 2 minutes to replace after I defrosted it again runs fine

The light switch was accidentally broken. I looked it up on your site and found the part. I ordered it and switched it out in a matter of minutes. It also helped having people who purchased their switches from the site explain how they repaired their switches with relative ease.

Had to grind down the three middle plastic arms with a small grinder. The arms on the icemaker would hit the plastic arms and break the new one off too if this wasn't done. Perfect fit now.

frig ran to much and pump on to long noticed light switch sticking when door was opened replaced the light switch took care of the problem the switch controlles more than just the light popped out with a screwdriver careful to find the side of it that has the retainer clip on it and the direction of the switch in correct position so it goes off when you close the door flat side facing the back a 2 minute job at most

as per video

Turned off water supply, removed bottom rear metal panel,with a towel to catch water pushed in and removed water line from double water outlet, removed metal clamp and then grommet tube assembly from top right rear of refrigerator. Then I put in new grommet tube assembly, turned on my water and checked for leaks.

Used screw driver to lightly remove the old switch. Disconnected the 2 electrical leads to the old switch, then I connected those leads to the new switch. The light immediately came back on and I placed the switch into its housing hole and popped it in place. It works perfectly now. My wife said "let there be light"! Very easy installation. Thanks.

It really was as simple as the other folks noted. Slid a screwdriver into the edge of the broken switch and it popped right out. Disconnected and reconnected each of the two wires and just slid the switch back into the slot. Truly a DIY fix.