PSE25KYHEHFS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Procedure for Replacing the Ice Chute Plate
1. Turn off the power.
2. Snap off the outside trim ring. Use a plastic screwdriver to avoid scratching the cabinet.
3. Locate the three small holes below the control panel facing, just above ice chute. The center hole is not used. With a small, blunt, object (wire – blunted nail) that is slightly smaller than the holes, push up rather firmly up through the outer holes to release front control panel.
4. Remove the three wire connectors from printed circuit board. Firmly pull/pry them straight out of retaining clip. Use caution: Excessive force will break clips.
5. Release the secondary panel by removing four screws (one in each corner).
6. Remove the flap assembly.
7. Clean all accessible areas with 1/10 bleach water to sanitize. Rinse the cleaned area with clear water and thoroughly dry everything before re-assembling the panel.
8. Install the new flap assembly.
9. Re-installed everything in the reverse order and check the functionality.
10. Order a spare ice chute flapper to be ready for the next event.

Really easy to install - they both snapped into place.

Our daughter spilled juice on the refrigerator light button. It started with the light coming on very slowly and then not at all. We popped off the old button with a flat head screwdriver, plugged in the new one. Works perfect. Can't believe how inexpensive and easy the fix was.

Emptyed shelf of food. Aligned new plastic front piece. Pressed front. Went right into place.

1. I unplugged the refrigerator/ freezer
2. Turned off water supply
3. Removed the screws that held the cardboard skirt in place
4. Unplugged the water tube from the push connect
5. Removed the screws around the water inlet to the ice maker
6. Remove the water fill tube
7. Install new water fill tube and put all the screws and plates back where they go

You just had to slide the assembly into place.
No tools required.

1. Removed the back panel of the fridge to get access to the inlet water valve.
2. Removed black poly water line from valve (pull back on white ring where line is attached and pull the line out)
3. Removed the inlet tube from top-back of fridge (where it goes into the ice make). use putty knife to get under the sticky white gasket beneath the black oval housing and pull the tube out form the back of the fridge.
4. Replace the water line with new part taking care to properly seat the line into the the bottom water valve and pushing the water tube into the hole for the ice maker.

Note: Be sure to take off the protective covering from the white - sticky grommet and push to adhere to metal on fridge.

to be safe - use a bit of clear silicone chaulking round the perimeter of the grommet and push to tighly bond the water inlet tube to the fridge.

The reason for this - is that if you do not get a good bond using the white - sticky gormmet alone - you may have the water tube inside the ice maker freeze up.

Also once the new water line is installed be sure to secure the line to the metal back of the fridge - so the line will not move. some fridges come with metal hose clamps to do this - otherwise use duct tape

Replace the motor fan on condenser and clean the condenser

The water dispenser was not working, but when I pressed the lever I could hear it attempt to disperse water. But when looking inside I could see that when I pressed the lever it was spewing water from the tank. I was not certain why it was not dispersing water, but I knew I had to replace the leaking tank. I found several YouTube videos that described in detail how to replace the tank (and I highly recommend doing that). The removal and replacement was very straight-forward and that part took only about 30 minutes. But the time-consuming part was cleaning behind the refrigerator and cleaning the inside as well (since I already had most of the shelves out). Then once I got it all back together I tested the water dispenser and still nothing. So I disconnected the line coming out of the tank going up into the door and then tried again. This time water was coming out of the line. So at that point I was fairly confident that the problem was a frozen line somewhere in the door. After leaving it unplugged for a while and also heating the door with a hair dryer, I connected the line again and got water dispensed.

Received the part in a reasonable amount of time. Installed super quick.

Using my putty knife, I slid it under the light cover prying upward to remove it. I then unplugged the the light board from the wire and unsnapped from the two prongs. Then reinstalled.

After shutting off the h2o, I unplugged the refrigerator. Using the nut driver, I removed the cardboard backing. Then I removed the fitting where the inlet line to the ice maker and pried the old tubing from the unit. I then undid the clasp about 1/2 way up the back and removed the section that went through the back to the ice maker.
I then reassembled everything and plugged in the refrigerator as well as turning on the water.
Keep in mind that because h2o and electricity are involved. MAKE SURE THERE ARE NO h2o LEAKS.

Handle just snaps on.

unplug refrige take off light cover unplug lightbar and take lightbar off bracket put new LED lightbar back on the bracket and attatch back on back wall of freezer put light cover back on plug in refrige done.

The repair did not go exactly the way it was described in the YouTube video, but basically it was similar. After unplugging the power cord, emptying the freezer, removing the shelves and the ice reservoir, I removed the ice maker assembly by unscrewing a Philips head screw and unplugging the power connector. The connector had little retaining tabs on each side that I pried open with a straight blade screwdriver. Then the ice maker lifted right out. Next I removed one screw holding the auger motor assembly, unplugged the power connector, and lifted out the assembly. This where things got difficult. After flailing around a bit, I removed the panel on the back wall of the freezer below the evaporator fan assembly, exposing the evaporator coil. I saw that the fan assembly was attached with two screws at the top and two screws at the bottom. The top screws were easily removed, but when I removed the bottom screws, which were situated in very tight quarters, I DROPPED BOTH SCREWS DOWN BEHIND THE EVAPORATOR COIL. Be prepared with a magnetic nutdriver so this doesn't happen to you. I could not retrieve the lost screws, but fortunately it appears that the top screws hold the assembly securely enough. The assembly was loose, but it was still attached by a power cord that I could not disconnect. I removed the tracks on the side walls for the ice bucket, and then I could maneuver the fan motor assembly just enough that I could reach over the top of it, grab and pull off the old fan blade, and slide the new fan blade onto the shaft. Reassembly was straightforward, replacing each part (except two lost screws) in reverse order to disassembly. After getting everything put back in and plugging in the power cord, I was amazed at how quiet it ran.