GWE23GYNHFS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Jack from Camas, WA
- Parts Used:
- WR71X11055
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Bottom bin on left door broke
Replaced with new bin.
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- Customer:
- Steve from SPRINGFIELD, SC
- Parts Used:
- WR07X10131
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Compressor would run for three seconds and stop, two minutes and repeat.
The overload protector was the problem. It plugs into the side of the compressor and the run capacitor plugs into it.
If you pull the overload protector and it rattles when you shake it, that's probably your diagnosis.
The replacement is different from the original and the wire connectors are different. Hold the thing in the same orientation as if it were plugged in. The vertical connector goes to the neutral wire, which on my fridge is orange. The horizontal connector is for the overload, which for mine is black and white. If you have a schematic you should verify the wires yourself.
Anyway, the refrigerator now works like new.
If you pull the overload protector and it rattles when you shake it, that's probably your diagnosis.
The replacement is different from the original and the wire connectors are different. Hold the thing in the same orientation as if it were plugged in. The vertical connector goes to the neutral wire, which on my fridge is orange. The horizontal connector is for the overload, which for mine is black and white. If you have a schematic you should verify the wires yourself.
Anyway, the refrigerator now works like new.
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- Customer:
- Harry from DURYEA, PA
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10025
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
both freezer and refigerator were warm.
I watched the video online and it said there were three sensors in the refrigerator, two in the freezer and one in the refrigerator. I only ordered one sensor and was going to try the one in the refrigerator first. He said the upper one in the freezer is the most difficult, but is usually the problem. So, I replaced the upper sensor and tried restarting the unit. Everything went well and it fixed the problem.
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- Customer:
- peter from ROTONDA WEST, FL
- Parts Used:
- WR57X27527
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
Very slow water flow despite filter change
I didn’t open the part till I verified it was the same. Then I detached the assembly from the fridge and swapped the water lines individually. The metal bracket had gotten bent a little in shipment, but straightened easily and all went back together.
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- Customer:
- Gerrit from ST AUGUSTINE, FL
- Parts Used:
- WR57X27527
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Water would not pass through the water valve solenoid to the rest of the fridge.
I ended up ordering two valves, both of which were defective (bad) and would not pass water, for a total of $116.66. Then I had to get a service tech to install yet another valve (also a GE part) that was good and that fixed the problem (for another $187.00 charge). These parts seem to come from Canada or beyond so be careful if you order them as they too may be bad. I finally received a refund for one but I'm still hunting for a USA address to return the other one I need a refund for...good luck.
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- Customer:
- Mark from ROSEMOUNT, MN
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10025
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Refrigerator not defrosting, ice tray clogging up in ice tray, refrigerator making loud humming noise, and compressed running all the time.
First, turn off power - since I did not want to pull the refrigerator out on my wood floor I tripped the circuit breaker to that circuit and opened door to make sure interior light was off (ensuring power was off). This unit has a bottom freezer, I took out all shelves, ice maker and all parts in the way of accessing back of interior of freezer section. Removed back plastic section by removing one screw in middle top of back panel and prying it out. This was a bit difficult as it was in there a bit tight but once the plastic warmed up it pulled out ok. This revealed the compressor section and temp sensor that was attached to the copper coils with of all things - a zip tie! In pictures of this that I looked at on various web sites the sensor was on a metal bracket attached to the coil so it made me wonder if tf the factory took a shortcut? I cut the old sensor wire, stripped the two wires 1/2", and connected them to the new sensor wire with butt connectors, I put some silicone into the ends of the butt connectors to prevent moisture from entering into connectors and wrapped the connection in black electrical tape. I then "attached" the sensor to the coil using a zip tie, put the plastic back piece back on, inserted everything I took out and put power back to refrigerator. It's been 3 days and temp of refrigerator is stable, ice maker not clogging up, and compressor not running all the time! So far so good.
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- Customer:
- MICHAEL from MONMOUTH BEACH, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WR30X28682
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Socket set
Ice maker failure
Ordered a replacement ice maker. Simple to remove old unit one screw and one screw to remove wire cover to unplug. Replacement unit looked a little different as the left side of the new unit had various ridges which did not allow a proper fit into ice making box. After examining old unit and new I swapped the old left cover with new left cover and unit fit perfectly and it is working correctly. I suggest adding a quick note about the upgraded part as it may not fit properly and the side cover may have to swapped out.
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- Customer:
- Les from Visalia, CA
- Parts Used:
- WR30X28682
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Lower Ice Maker making loud knocking noise
Removed all containers from the freezer,
Removed lower freezer door, 3 bolts on each side.
Removed one front screw on the ice maker, unplugged two connectors on slide off unit
Removed covers on the old ice maker and installed on the new one
Installed the new ice maker in reverse of the removal process
Inspected the old ice maker and found the motor drive gear had missing teeth; I believe that the heater on the ice maker was failing causing a strain on the drive gears
Removed lower freezer door, 3 bolts on each side.
Removed one front screw on the ice maker, unplugged two connectors on slide off unit
Removed covers on the old ice maker and installed on the new one
Installed the new ice maker in reverse of the removal process
Inspected the old ice maker and found the motor drive gear had missing teeth; I believe that the heater on the ice maker was failing causing a strain on the drive gears
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- Customer:
- Richard J from BRANFORD, CT
- Parts Used:
- WR71X11052
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
Broken door shelf
Pulled out out shelf and inserted new one
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- Customer:
- elissa from ASHBY, MA
- Parts Used:
- RPWFE
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
Replaced thermistor 5.2 ohms of resistance
Exposed evap defrosted with heat gun exposed defrost element defrost termination switch ok therminster didn’t check out the thermistor sends the signal to logic panel then run the the freezer ice machine and refer temps it took 24 hours before the system starting to show results freezer compartment 10 below ice compartment 0 degrees refer temp 37 degrees one refrigerant three different temps system is running at optimum performance 450.00 $ service call the thing with GE appliances there is no wiring diagram .thankyou parts select .ill use you on all domestic service calls.
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- Customer:
- Greg from ANKENY, IA
- Parts Used:
- WR32X10910
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
The middle support for the vegetable door roller wheels broke
Removed drawers, lifted out old frame assembly ( no tools ) removed and cleaned old glass from assembly.
Carefully screwed old rollers ( x4 )into new frame, then placed old glass in new frame, repositioned frame into refrigerator and then repositioned drawers in frame.
20 minutes , no issues
Carefully screwed old rollers ( x4 )into new frame, then placed old glass in new frame, repositioned frame into refrigerator and then repositioned drawers in frame.
20 minutes , no issues
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- Customer:
- Dan from COLUMBIA, SC
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10025
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Socket set
Refrigerator not getting cold
Replaced Temperature Sensor and now it is getting cold.
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- Customer:
- Kent from Bartlesville, OK
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10025
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
Freezer working but fridge not cooling.
Totally followed the instructions of the video that came with the sensor. Unplugged the the fridge, defrosted the freezer. Cut off the main sensor that usually is the one that goes out. Installed the the new sensor with new wire terminals, crimped them and covered with electrical tape. Fridge works like a charm. Partsselect is excellent. Saved me a few hundred dollars versus having a GE Tech come and do it.
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- Customer:
- QUOC-LOC from LYNN HAVEN, FL
- Parts Used:
- WR55X24064
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
The control board generated clicking noise. Temperature display wrong values.
On the internet forum I read that if the control board needs to be changed , do the same for the Run Capacitor/relay.
The Ge profile refrigerator was 15 years old. First I disconnect the power cord,
I removed the control board at the back of the fridge, replaced it with a new one and did the same for the run capacitor.
Plugged the power cord back and it works fine. GE repair service did not want to come to do it. DIY is fine.
The Ge profile refrigerator was 15 years old. First I disconnect the power cord,
I removed the control board at the back of the fridge, replaced it with a new one and did the same for the run capacitor.
Plugged the power cord back and it works fine. GE repair service did not want to come to do it. DIY is fine.
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- Customer:
- Sara from White Plains, NY
- Parts Used:
- RPWFE
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
Water filter needed changing.
Snap filter into place while holding the filter slightly away from the refrig. When filter snaps into place, push it towards refrig into place.
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