GFD28GYNHFS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

I determined one of the five LED lights in the refrigerator was dead by swapping it with a working one. The refrigerator lights are wired in series and if one of the lights is dead the remaining ones turn on, but very dim. I called PartSelect.com and thanks to their help we determined the correct part to order which is the oval-shaped cover LED assembly which includes the cover, LED, and female connector. The part from PartSelect arrived in three days. The oval-shape LED plastic Cover assembly is mounted on the refrigerator and held by a couple of side latches. First unplug the refrigerator and then proceed to lightly pry the oval-shaped cover side facing the rear of the refrigerator with your finger nail to remove it. With the LED cover removed you can then press on the LED connector tab to slide it off. Now slide the female connector of the replacement part to the refrigerator male connector and snap the oval-shape plastic cover onto the refrigerator receptacle and then plug it back to its outlet. Now all the lights in the refrigerator should light up brightly! That's all folks. Hope this helps. Good luck. Yours truly.

I ended up ordering two valves, both of which were defective (bad) and would not pass water, for a total of $116.66. Then I had to get a service tech to install yet another valve (also a GE part) that was good and that fixed the problem (for another $187.00 charge). These parts seem to come from Canada or beyond so be careful if you order them as they too may be bad. I finally received a refund for one but I'm still hunting for a USA address to return the other one I need a refund for...good luck.

I recieved the package with the correct part number but the wrong part inside. The item in the package does not even resemble the part on the GE parts website. Tried to contact parts select but no luck.

Turned off the breaker to the fridge because I couldn't reach the power plug to unplug it . Use small flat head screwdriver to pop out the piece, disconnected the rubber prong connectors, inserted the new piece into the rubber prongs snapped it back into place. Flipped the breaker back on and prayed it worked. It did and I saved myself $120 service call.

I watched the video online, followed the instructions and within minutes had the part installed. The frig light was working once again! I will say the original switch was very snug and I had to do some very minor scraping of the plastic to get the new part to slide in.

just removed the old switch and replaced it with the new one

Removed all containers from the freezer,
Removed lower freezer door, 3 bolts on each side.
Removed one front screw on the ice maker, unplugged two connectors on slide off unit
Removed covers on the old ice maker and installed on the new one
Installed the new ice maker in reverse of the removal process

Inspected the old ice maker and found the motor drive gear had missing teeth; I believe that the heater on the ice maker was failing causing a strain on the drive gears

Simply loosened Allen screws and removed handles then affixed new handles and tightened Allen screws in the new handles. Discarded scratched handles.

Popped it up and popped new one on

put the gratefruit knife behind the old switch pooped it out pluged the new one in piece of cake 5min.even vacumed the dust off the coil

Extremely easy repair, the hardest part was getting the old switch out. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to squeeze the tabs in and it came right out.

This was so easy I think it took me 2 minutes. I am not very mechanically inclined but that didn't matter! Works perfect thank you!

It was very simple. Removed 4 screws on top of door where panel is located. Unplug 3 three connectors and removed board. reinstalled new one in reverse mode. On the down side this did not solve the problem. I am still working on it.

Remove the top cover above the door by lifting it slightly and pulling forward. I used a mirror to make sure that there was nothing in the way of accessing the switch from above. I used a blade screwdriver to press against the switch retainer on the topside, while GENTLY prying from below with another blade screwdriver to get the switch dislodged. Once the retainer was past the opening, I wiggled the switch downward and then rotated it to the left when the rounded top right edge of the switch was visible. This allowed the wiring to the connector to pass thru the hole. I pushed the wiring from the top and pulled from below to get the connector below the opening for the switch. I then unplugged the switch, plugged in the new switch and reversed the removal process feeding the connector thru first then rotating the switch to the right to get the rounded edge of the switch thru the opening, then pressed the switch up into the opening until it snapped into place. Total time less than 10 minutes.

Pop out switch, pull wires, attach wires to new switch and pop back in. Easy smeasy!