GDS20KBSDWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

my freezer quit freezing, it would freeze for one day, thaw the next, so I went online, found PARTS SELECT, LOOKED UP MY MODEL #, come to find out it needed three parts to keep my freezer to freeze, first part was a thermistor a small PART took me longer to remove all the covers, and shelving, PULLED THE OLD OUT, CUT THE WIERS TO SIZE, AND REINSTALLED, IT WELL! THAT WASN'T ENOUGH THE FREEZER STILL DIDN'T FREEZE IT THOUT IT WAS A COOL WORMING OVEN, HAD TO INSTALL THE THERMISTOR I, SO I DID, TEN MIN, NOW I THOUGHT THAT WAS IT BECAUSE IT STAYED FROZEN FOR A WEAK, HAVE YOU EVER EATEN SOUPY ICE CREAM? SO BACK TO PARTS SELECT, THIS TIME I BOUGHT ONE MORE PT, THE RUN CAPACITOR, FIVE MIN, THAT/S ALL IT TOOK TO INSTALL. I DID NOT KNOW AT THE TIME YOU NEED THE THREE OF THEM TO RUN THE FREEZER ONE TO KEEP THE TEMP., ONE TO KEEP THE FAN RUNNING THE WAY IT SHOULD, AND THE THIRD TO MAKE SURE THE OTHER TWO KEEP RUNNING. NOW I CAN SET IT AT 4- 5 AND. FREEZE.

Unplug refrigerator and turn water supply off to the ice maker. Remove the screws holding the bottom cardboard-like cover from the lower back of the refrigerator. Remove the water supply line to the old solenoid with 1/2 inch wrench. Unplug the two power supply wires to the old solenoid. Remove the screw that holds the solenoid to the back panel of the unit. After the solenoid is pulled out, remove the output hose with a 1/2 inch wrench. The configuration of the replacement solenoid is likely a little different than the original, but it seems to be rather universal and will fit back into place and perform properly. The new solenoid does not use a compression type nut to secure the output line. It's just a simple push-in connection. The wires may have to be rerouted a little, just keep them clear of the evaporator fan blades Reverse the removal procedure and you're done.

After reading this forum and other searches, I assumed replacing the board may solve my problem. Unscrewed the back plate, used pliers to pull out the connectors, squeezed in the sides of the 4 plastic white board holders to release the board, and then replaced old board with the new one and reconnected connectors. (My model was not one of the mentioned models for cutting the 2nd pin of the J1 connector, so I left it in.) Upon plugging my frig back in, it began working perfectly again. So thankful to have found this forum!

UNPLUG! (Read Instructions for wiring configuration) Remove cover lower back right hand side.Remove ribbon plugs top and bottom you will need to lever back holding tab while pulling plug they will more than likely break dont worry you are throwing this part away., disconnect ground wire, compress plastic holding tabs,
pull off control board, plug in new board push on to holding tabs reconnect ground and turn on refrigerator and check replace cover, everything is now working great.

Other than having to bend the bracket 90 degrees it was an easy install.

After determining that the ice maker on this relatively new refrigerator would make ice cubes if it received the proper amount of water. Ordered the valve and received in a couple days. Using a nut driver, removed the cardboard cover from the back of the refrigerator. Removed one screw holding the valve bracket to the fridge and removed another screw holding the water supply line and the water line to the ice maker in place. Pulled plug on fridge and removed 2 wires from valve. Removed inlet and outlet lines from old valve and reversed the process installing the new valve.

unplugged the old valve and disconnected the water line, then reconnected water line on new valve and plugged it in. It was an easy process but unfortunately that did not fix the problem. It is the ice maker it self so I will be ordering a replacement ice maker.

Removed main control board cover on back of refrigerator (3 screws). Unplugged power to refrigerator and removed electrical connections to control board using a screwdriver. Using a screwdriver disconnected (4) plastic self -locking prongs holding the board. Matched new replacement board with old board. Plugged in electrical connections to new board. Snapped main control board onto (4) self- locking prongs. Reinstalled cover (3) screws. Plugged in refrigerator and tested refrigerator operation.

Removed back cover from unit. unpluged wirring harness installed new control board and refigerator runs lik new

Part arrived 2 days before anticipated. I was able to keep my fridge running long enough to get the new part in, which took no time at all. The Main Board relay would start clicking and the compressor would shut down. By unplugging the top right plug for a minute and plugging it back in I was able to keep it running for a few hours at a time. Good enough to keep my food from going bad. Thr part was an easy plug in replacement, was a good price, and works great.

I got the wrong switch before so just need to put the right 1 in. Super easy, pop off old, plug in new, click back into place. Done. REALLY REALLY EASY for anyone to do

Finding your site saved me $200.00 ! I thought I needed a new door handle but all I needed was the brackets to hold the handle on the door. The diagram you displayed of my refrigerator helped me focus on what I really needed to fix my problem. I ordered the parts I needed and was expecting the parts I order to come in 7 working days, I received them in 2 days. Thanks for your help, Laura

No water flow after installation, part sent GSWF filter made in Taiwan had different treading then filter made in USA. Tried 3 from Taiwan same result. Found 1 from USA worked perfect.

Everything seemed to be working right, but no cooling, so I tried turning on and off the switch that turns the light on 5 times within two seconds, refrigerator did not shot. so I removed the main board and I notice a short had taken place on one of the relay legs. I ordered the main board and replaced it. The main board is on the back of the freezer covered with a sheet metal panel about 8"x8" and is secured with hex sheet metal screws. Everything is working now. Please make sure to unplug the unit from power before removing the main board.

I'm not a DIY-er, and wasn't sure a 20 year old refrigerator was worth the repair, but for $30 I could afford to be wrong. The swap is pretty intuitive, especially in my case since the problem was that the water tube from the valve to the ice maker had detached from the coupling. So I didn't have to cut anything off, just inserted the tube into the new valve. Reconnected the supply line, screwed the assembly back on the refer, and Bob's your uncle. Other than unloading some canned goods to lighten the refer, longest process was finding the right size nut driver in my disorganized tool tray. Be aware, there are NO instructions included with the part. Found a good video on you tube that confirmed the obvious. Glad I took a shot!