CYE22TP3MGD1 General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

1. Verified good water flow by unplugging incoming water and makIng sure there was good pressure.

2. Re-attached water supply line and unplugged water line after the electronic valve to test water pressure from valve when hitting the dispense button in the front of the refrigerator.

Found very little flow directly after the valve.

Replaced valve and now everything is good. (Refrigerator is less than 2 years old)

Remove all trays, no need to turn app. off,
remove cover on top of back panel, may be a little difficult
remove 2 screws , one behind top plate, one in the middle of large back cover.
remove small cover located at the bottom of the back cover discinnect electrical plug,
remove or loosen 6 screws on lower evap cover, there is no need to remove evap cover, just pry it loose from back.
lift back cover off and disconnect electrical fan will be at the bottom of the large cover.
run warm water over fan and push out.
remove rubber cover and install on new fan,
reinstall new fan and reverse process.
very easy and simple and only takes about 30 minutes.

Our fridge sits within our cabinets with one over top of it. That plus the leveler feet to secure it in place made this easy task a little more difficult. I was able to remove the top panel to access the switches. I was concerned, as I had not unplugged it because of the feet and went for it regardless, figuring if there was a shock, it would be minimal.

I was able to switch out the switches no problem. The only problem is it did not resolve the issue with my lights.

followed install on line

I asked two strong male neighbors to do the work and told them how to do it. Follow the simple directions on the box. You can Google it, but it will tell you the same directions.

1. Turned power off.
2. Removed 2 screws holding plastid plate which connected electrical wire from mullion to door (requires Torq-tip screwdriver).
3. Unplugged wire plug behind the plate.
4. Lifted up old mullion from 2 slots holding it in place to remove it from door.
5. Inserted new mullion into slots on door.
6. Connected electrical wire to plug inside door.
7. Screwed 2 screws to reattached plastic plate to door.
8. Turned power back on.

I followed u-tube instructions.
Took off the old switch and put the new one on.

After replacing the light bulb and still no light I manually pushed the light switch button. Intermittently the light would come on then go out. I removed the power plug from the power source then replaced the light switch. I plugged the refrigerator back in and now I open the door the light comes on and stays on until the door is closed.

The old switch was hard to remove. Thinking that I may have to loosen the wires I used a socket wrench to remove a clamp. This was unnecessary. In the end the switch did come out using a large size screwdriver. The problem was that the expanding plastic tongue is not visible from the ouside so you have to try to feel your way around. If i had ordered the replacement before and not afterwards I would have seen this before hand.

Pulled out bottom crisper drawers. Removed drawer slides. Removed side plastic panels, then removed back panel which exposed the fan. Removed fan and replaced with new fan. Had to use the heat gun because there was ice buildup on left corner of rear panel. Reassembled in reverse order. There is several excellent videos on You Tube.

Removed back wall cover over coil. Defrost all ice with a hair dryer. Cut white wires and replaced Temperature Sensor. It has been working for a week and no trouble at this time. If you have this system on your GE refrigerator do this before replacing the motherboard. I must admit I was thinking that was the trouble. Motherboard was replaced after 5 years old now 5 years later my thinking is this a 5 year problem. So try the Temperature Sensor.

I ordered two switches, replaced both with a knife in 10 minutes. Interior light works, thanks.

Safety first, unplug fridge. Had to remove the top access panel, which consisted of 5 screws. Got access to the door switches. These are removed from the panel by depressing the plunger on the switch and sliding them out of the retainer. Transferred the wires over to the new switches one for one. Re-assembled. Dispenser works.

1 opened door 2. pryed cover off from cieling 3.cut and stripped wires on 4. sodered wires from old wires to new sensor. 5 insulated conection.6 put cover back on. This did not fix the problem it was the control moduel.

I ordered the correct part, the box said it was the correct part and when I opened the box a completely different part was inside. Not only was it the wrong part but it was loosely wrapped with very thin plastic and the hinge was broken off of the lid and laying in the box. I have called and emailed for help and was told no one was available to help because of COVID 19. One email was answered to return the part I would have to pay shipping and the part could not be damaged. Okay, the part was wrong, the part was broken. Now what should I do? Please respond.