GZS22DGJWFBB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Because the lever was broken, when you close the refrigerator door, the freezer door would unseal slightly causing frost to build up on the inside and outside of the door.

After removing the base grille, the repair was made by simply placing the new part in the slot where the old part was then re-attaching the spring from the part to the hook in the base of the refrigerator. Now replace the base grille with the two screws. Time: About 10 minutes. Tools: Phillips screwdriver, needle nose pliers.

I replaced the three sensors, 2 in the freezer 1 in the refrigerator. This was rated as the most common problem. Did not fix the problem. I then checked the ohms on the new sensors then the old sensors they were all within .5 of each other. So I got smart and went down the list of causes on their list. I emailed partselect and asked what the parts should read. They replied with that information and it turned out to be the voltage converter on the compressor. I ordered the part on friday payed for overnight delivery and it arrived tuesday. This as you can imagine makes me angry. But the part was easy to install and my refrigerator started working right away. I would advise anyone with this problem to start at the top of the problem list use a multi meter check everything on the list and only replace part or parts that don't come up to standards. This will save time and money and hopefully fix the problem the first time as you are not switching out parts and hoping that it solves the problem.

I popped the switch out using the blade of a small screwdriver and noticed that it connected with two wires via a slide on connector for each one. I noted the info on the old switch to identify which wire went to which terminal. I held each wire with a pair of pliers while I pulled the wire connector off the terminal on the old switch. I connected the two wires to the correct terminals on the new swith, and popped the switch back into the door frame. Easy, easy, easy and saved the $40 service call + parts cost!

Watched video, however could not get outer casing off. Under the panel are three small holes, pushed up with an Allen key, used a small screwdriver to wedge out, came out easily, followed instructions from video on removing and replacing solenoid

Unfortunately, the replacement part didn't come with instructions. The repair, nevertheless, was fairly straightforward. After removing the plastic parts that guide the ice through the door (by removing a few screws that attach the parts to the inside of the door), I was able to slip my hand into the ice maker dispenser and remove the old part. The part clips on. It is a tight fit through the funnel (from the outside of the freezer), however, and requires that the gasket first be "flipped" open wherein it unfolds 180 degrees. Doing this will make it easier to clip the new gasket onto the assembly.

I opened the back panel of the fridge and exposed the compressor. Unplugged existing run capacitor and installed new one with the addition of the sleeve that is stated must be installed around the run capacitor.
Everything I read and on this web site says that based on these symptoms, that the problem is the run capacitor. I searched and search for a part called a start relay which plugs in to the compressor. This run capacitor plugs in to this other part which I take as the start relay.

Installing this run capacitor did not solve the problem. The fridge compressor keeps cycling on and off. Freezer doesn't keep as cold as it should.

Removed panel from front of freezer door by pushing up on three spring loaded screws located in the opening where the ice door opens and closes. they are about 1 inch apart on the bottom of the opening. Push up to free ice maker panel. Remove three screws from solenoid, located at the top right. Remove wire, replace with new and that is it. Fixed the problem!! Our ice maker hadn't worked for months. Be careful if you remove the round ice maker door to clean. There is a spring that located on the left side of sprocket. The spring fell off and took me a while to figure where it came from. Recieved package in three days and the job took minutes. Works great! Very easy to complete.

I received part. I then used a hair dryer to smooth out kinks. Took about 15 minutes. Pulled off old gasket and replaced with new one. Used hands only.

I had to remove 2 screws to get the broken door stop off then I put the new door stop on by using the 2 same screws.

Replaced both temp sensors worked good for 2 days then began freezing food. Looked into it further on line. Found small motorized door broken that controls the cold air from the freezer

Raised side of fridge enough to get 1/4" ratchet with 1/4" socket under roller wheel assy. Removed three hex-head screws to separate damaged wheel assy from fridge frame. From panel below fridge compartment, backed-out stripped leveling screw. Mounted new roller assy and then threaded in new leveling screw from front. Lowered fridge and adjusted leveling screw for proper height. Suggest putting a 2x4 under fridge for safety when hands are under unit.

1) Use plastic spudgers to remove the front control panel by levering on the front bottom of the plastic
2) Unscrew 4 retaining screws from the internal assembly
3) Slide clear plastic ice chute from the internal assembly
4) Lift the paddle 90 degrees to remove it
5) Place the spring on the paddle lug such that the long side fits in the groove on the back
6) Press the spring back, and slide the paddle into the paddle holder at a 90 degree angle
7) Once installed the short side of the spring should press against the plastic to force the paddle to its default position
8) Slide the ice chute back into the assembly
9) Replace the 4 screws holding the assembly to the refrigerator
10) Replace the front control panel

I may have missed a step here or there, but nothing major. Be mindful of the switches, and the placement of the wires. The entire process took maybe 5 minutes. I would say the most difficult part is getting the control panel off, it kind of feels like it might break, but it's a pretty robust piece.

It was very simple! I assessed the situation and gathered my tools for the job. I used a flat head screwdriver, pliers, and electrical tape. I used the flat head screwdriver to release the switch from its location, the pliers to take the electrical terminations apart. I taped the wires individual so that I would not loose them in the door, also not to short them out. I then unpackaged the new switch to install. Pulled the tape off one of the of the terminals while holding the wire, and attached it to the new switchs terminal post. Did the same with the other wire, then snapped the new switch back into place. Immediately had results. I opened and closed the door a few times in amazement that something so annoying such as a light in your fridge could be so easy to fix. Most of all, having a business to rely on to find the part and deliver in a timely fashion. Thank you Partselect.com, you were outstanding!!!

Easy fix, but they don't give you plenty of wire to work with. When I pulled the switch out it only had about an inch of wire that came with it. meaning if I didn't have a grasp on the wires as I was removing the switch they would have slipped back up the opening

Unplugged the fridge, and opened the freezer. Unscrewed the light panel, small screwdriver. Removed the plastic bracket. Part was frozen and I broke one of the plastic mounts. Do not do this as I am not sure if I will have to live with my cable twist tie kludge or I can get another plastic bracket. Light board is just the PCB. You need to remove the old PCB and install the new one- remember the orientation and the fact that the plastic mount piece has specific sides you can identify by the width of the slots. This is for all the other women like me. Thanks.