GSS23GGPFCWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Went on this site, found out many others like me had the flap door stuck open problem, it would not shut after you went for ice. I needed a new solenoid that opens when the ice is dispenced and closes afterwards not allowing the warm ambient air to come up the shoot which frosts the ice and melts it. It shipped QUICK and now I have a working ice maker dispenser from the outside. Its been 2 YEARS of opening the door and reaching into the ice maker bin for ice! Thanks PartSelect

Pulled out broken drawer and inserted new drawer...just that simple!

I replaced the original solenoid, which had rusted into one solid piece. OMG how easy was that!

Take the face (the part with the buttons on the outside) off, disconnect wired connectors (three), take the screws out of the part behind that (4), and then find the solenoid value (on the right). It's attached with three screws. Mine was rusted beyond belief. I knew this was the problem, ordered a new solenoid valve, put it back in place with three screws (use new screws that fit, not the old rusty ones if possible). When testing, make sure you give the flap a couple of seconds to close. There is a delay, and I initially wasn't patient enough so I had to disassemble and assemble an extra time because of this.

Simply put: If your solenoid value is rusted and the value won't operate smoothly, order the part and install it. This is as easy as any repair could be.

remove the front of were the ice and water comes out
then un scerw 4 scerw and the solenoid slides out unhook the wires and put the new one in

Knew the switch was bad. Researched on the internet how to fix. Used a steak knife to pop the old one out, changed the contacts to the new switch and popped it back in. It took longer to open the box than it did to replace the switch. And the part arrived 2 days after I ordered it.

removed 6 screws and repaced cover.

It was so darn easy! Took less then 10 minutes to fix. Self explanatory no instructions needed! Very cool!

Replaced flapper valve per website instructions. GE factory technician took two weeks to get here, charged over $100 for the call and told us we needed a new refrigerator door at a cost of over $500 to fix the problem. We sent him packing. After visiting the PartSelect website, the $5.88 PartSelect flapper valve fixed the problem. Amazing.

In preparation, I removed the bottom crispers and shelf to clear space, and removed the hood and items above the tank near the light. You'll need to also move the fridge away from the wall to access the back. Installation seemed very easy - two screws holding the tank itself, one hose to the water supply in the back, and another to the bottom of the freezer door to dispense. Then the hard part started after it was installed. First, I could hear the click but no water was coming out. After several views of youtube videos, I realized there was a plug in the hose to the supply side. Duh! So now I had water, but also a slow drip when drawing water. I believe the issue was that I was not pushing the hose on firmly enough, and eventually I got it right. Also, you need to understand the connector: there is a little ring around the place the hose fits; pushing it TOWARD the housing releases the hose, and pulling it back AWAY locks the hose it place. That was not clear to me without watching a youtube video.

Ordered new solenoid so the flap would close. That did the trick.

I watched the video a couple of times and followed the instructions exactly and the repair was very simple. This repair took me a bit more time than I thought it would just because I followed the steps methodically.

But the video was perfect to guide me through the procedure to replace this part. One of the longest parts was removing the shelving and food storage bins, cleaning them, drying them and then putting them back in after the tank was installed.

First, turn off power - since I did not want to pull the refrigerator out on my wood floor I tripped the circuit breaker to that circuit and opened door to make sure interior light was off (ensuring power was off). This unit has a bottom freezer, I took out all shelves, ice maker and all parts in the way of accessing back of interior of freezer section. Removed back plastic section by removing one screw in middle top of back panel and prying it out. This was a bit difficult as it was in there a bit tight but once the plastic warmed up it pulled out ok. This revealed the compressor section and temp sensor that was attached to the copper coils with of all things - a zip tie! In pictures of this that I looked at on various web sites the sensor was on a metal bracket attached to the coil so it made me wonder if tf the factory took a shortcut? I cut the old sensor wire, stripped the two wires 1/2", and connected them to the new sensor wire with butt connectors, I put some silicone into the ends of the butt connectors to prevent moisture from entering into connectors and wrapped the connection in black electrical tape. I then "attached" the sensor to the coil using a zip tie, put the plastic back piece back on, inserted everything I took out and put power back to refrigerator. It's been 3 days and temp of refrigerator is stable, ice maker not clogging up, and compressor not running all the time! So far so good.

Let me start by saying, I usually hire something like this out but figured I would give it a try. The install was fairly straight forward, however it would’ve been nice if the instructions would have been more useful. Instructing me to remove one screw to release the auger and solenoid enclosure wouldve been nice. There were 3 other screws that I didn’t need to remove and they were the ones holding the auger in place, which made assembling that much more difficult. Once to enclosure was removed, and the solenoid was exposed, it was a seemless process. I would however, recommend paying attention to or taking a picture of the connections on the solenoid. I was lucky to remember or got lucky. Regardless, I was able to complete the project successfully. If I had to do it again, I believe it can be done in 30 minutes or less.

Cut old tubing in frig with wire cutters and pulled through the bottom wall and removed old tnak from the wall...Installed new tank and ran tubing down trough lower wall and connected to the valve and the freezer door.