GDS20SCSCSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

I wouldn't have had a clue without your video. After the part was delivered, which was only in two days, I watched the video. The man explained everything perfectly, making our "fix" a breeze. It was great, I stood over my husband's shoulder, while he sat on the floor and told him what to do step by step. It couldn't have been easier. You guys are awesome!

My Son removed two screws, electric plug and two (2) compresion nuts. He had to bend the bracket to fit, then replace it, in reverse order except the filler tube on the new valve was of a "stabb-in" type. Job was a piece of cake and this small project, solved all our problems with the Ice maker.

I found this failure at midnight, was able to determine loss of voltage at J2 Pin 3 to 4, causing the fan failure. Jumpering with a staple from Pin 5 to 4 allowed the evap fan to run from the condensor fan supply for the few days waiting for the part. Not pretty, but it saved the food. Running like that forced the evap fan to high speed, so I had to set the thermostats lower (higher temp)

1. To un-mount the board, use needle nose to gently squeeze plastic bayonets one at a time and lift that corner clear.
2. Mark each connector J1, J3, J4, J2, J5 to match the mark on the old board
3. Gently work each connector off, replace board, and re-land each connector. The new board will have a ground wire. Just trap the lug under the upper left cover plate screw..

I took the 3 screws off the cover that is in the back of the appliance, unpluged the plugs that attached to the circuit board pressed the 4 plastic pins that held the old board. Then I snapped the new board in place and pluged the plugs back into the new board. They will only go on one way so you cannot get the plug in the wrong place, job done appliance works fine. Thanks

Removed circuit board cover, unplugged l
Leads, rePlaced board, leads and cover. Done

Also watch the video. Super simple

Pull fridge out. Pull the little 6 by 12 silver plate off on the back middle bottom of fridge. Disconnect the quick connects . Remove from 4 plastic pins. Them reassemble.

Shut the water off, removed two screws,removed the inlet, from the water valve then the line from the valve to the ice maker. Then you reverce these steps and you are done. The shipping time was the best I have ever seen. Thanks

I easily removed the screws and then removed the board and took a picture so I would remember how to re-connect it. It was really easy and now my refrigerator is working great. If I can do it anyone can do it. My husband was amazed that I did it all by myself.

Put bracket on workbench and hit two or three times with hammer. Glad I did not remove water inlet retainer from part, it can very easily be mistaken for a thread protector.

I found a burn solder on the main board.
replace it. works again.

Replaced circuit board / fixed problem

Unhooked power to valve
Removed old valve by taking out 2 screws.
Used adjustable wrench to remove water lines. Then reversed and hooked everything back up

First, the part arrived very quickly- 2days (FedEx). Removed the back panel, began pulling multi-prong plugs from the old board. To remove the plug that came out laterally (power wires?), I used a thin screwdriver to press the retaining clips on the side of each pin (4 white) holding the circuit board in place and pulled it out for clearance, then wiggled the multi plug free from the board. [I didn't put a lot of pressure on the board while pulling these plugs- 'cause if the new board didn't work, I'd still have the old one.]

Installation was pretty much the reverse of all the steps above. Thankfully, this unit did not have a bottom freezer as two steps in the instructions would have made it riskier.
Once plugged in, I listened for the fan and compressor to kick-in, didn't hear them (was concerned at first), but the dispenser worked ("yea!")- both crushed and cubed ice. The water worked also and it's been running fine for a couple of weeks now. After checking the temp settings they seemed more stable, the fan and compressor kicked in after a few minutes, and the ice-maker is working better than before (fills more quickly). Also, it seems to run less which makes me think I've been wasting electricity while the old control board was bad. Who knows what temps it was trying to reach on each side?
Not that hard to repair, but read the instructions 'very' closely so you don't do something (like cut a wire) that doesn't apply to your fridge. Tim

used volt meter to test for power at compressor prongs and test pins on main board, found no power leaving pins at main board.removed board and found burnt relay for compressor. replaced main board with new board, and presto.

first empty both sides then took apart freezer area ice maker-light cover-back cover and exposed fanchecked all connections ordered fan[had no amp probe to see if power at motor repaceed fan still fan didnot runmoved fridg out from wall found control board didnt find any thing wrongto the eye ordered control board remove all connectionsused plyers be easy to remove from board squezed little whit tabs[3 or 4] to remove board from fridge installed new board snapping the pegs back into holes then reinstallwire connectors [ps the board comes with a few extra ports dont worryjust connect to the ones on the old board] dont forget to hook up green groung wire when you put cover back on then plug in and turned on closed up the freezer and reinstalled icemaker and other parts started and all seems ok good luck