ZFSB23DNAKSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Followed video for replacing the ice chute flap solenoid replacement because getting to the ice funnel took same steps of disassemble. Looked at how the existing funnel was set in the housing, where and how one spring was located, where the switch and its activating arm on the ice funnel were located, took old one out and put new one in. Cleaned everything in process.

Turned off power, removed cover from Ice maker, checked resistance across thermostat for zero (read open), all other switches read proper value (when activated). Ordered and received thermostat. Removed Ice Maker from freezer, removed two screws holding ice tray to Control Assembly. Removed Thermostat and replaced with new one. Applied Silicone Sealant to face of Thermostat for adhesion to ice tray when assembled. Remounted Ice Tray to Control Assembly and remounted in freezer. Works Great...

First I turned the refrigerator and water line off. Then moved to the freezer section, followed the directions, removed the two screws. Directions state to not remove them but I had to in this case. Unplugged the ice maker and removed it from the freezer. I installed the two mounting screws then tried to plug the electrical connection back in but had to use the adaptor cord furnished in the kit. The cord was a little long but I tucked it in and mounted the ice maker. Turned it on then turned the refrigerator and water back on and in a few hours had ice! Very easy to do!

After retuning the wrong part and then recieving the correct part it was fairly simple to change the auger. The only thing to be carefull about is keeping all the ice crusher parts together in propper order. also the nut on the front after removing clip has left hand threads.

I replaced that part, but I still have the same problem, no water is dispensed. I believe I may need a circuit board. The problem was not the parts I replaced.

removed 3 screws unplug and remove old unit. install two screws install new ice maker, tighten screws plug in and turn on. had ice in 20 min.

Because the lever was broken, when you close the refrigerator door, the freezer door would unseal slightly causing frost to build up on the inside and outside of the door.

After removing the base grille, the repair was made by simply placing the new part in the slot where the old part was then re-attaching the spring from the part to the hook in the base of the refrigerator. Now replace the base grille with the two screws. Time: About 10 minutes. Tools: Phillips screwdriver, needle nose pliers.

First turn off the power, remove the ice tray, remove the two screws holding the ice maker to the side of the freezer, use the screw driver to gently open the electrical clip for the power cord inside the freezer, remove the complete unit from freezer, bend the old stripper from the holding pin- it is flexible- it will bend, replace the new stripper on the holding pin and bend into the slot to hold it firmly, no water will come out from the fill cup into the freezer, plug in the power cord, mount back to side of freezer, you are done.

Removed the ice tray and then the auger unit from the tray assembly. To accomplish auger removal, the auger assembly is attached to the tray assemble at the front. On the front bottom there two screws. Back them out. Then on the top of the tray assembly the auger assembly is held in position by two tabs. Depress them with a finger or thumb. Do not use a screw driver as this may result in breaking the plastic tab! The auger assembly will separate. The crusher plate easily separates from the auger assembly and is removed buy "spiraling" the plate up and off the auger itself. Simply reverse to install new plate.
Recommendation: Take this opportunity to thoroughly clean and COMPLETELY DRY all components prior to re-assemble and re-install into the refrigerator.

I replaced the three sensors, 2 in the freezer 1 in the refrigerator. This was rated as the most common problem. Did not fix the problem. I then checked the ohms on the new sensors then the old sensors they were all within .5 of each other. So I got smart and went down the list of causes on their list. I emailed partselect and asked what the parts should read. They replied with that information and it turned out to be the voltage converter on the compressor. I ordered the part on friday payed for overnight delivery and it arrived tuesday. This as you can imagine makes me angry. But the part was easy to install and my refrigerator started working right away. I would advise anyone with this problem to start at the top of the problem list use a multi meter check everything on the list and only replace part or parts that don't come up to standards. This will save time and money and hopefully fix the problem the first time as you are not switching out parts and hoping that it solves the problem.

Troubleshot the tempeture sensors and the resistance was alot lower than the specs called for had to replace the evap fan being 1 of the sensors is connected to the evap fan . Start by removing all the food from the.freezer and bottom section of the fridge . Remove all the shelves and bins in freezer and shelf and drawers.on the lower section of the fridge .remove the ice bin , and the ice.machine remove the light shroud, and.bulbs, push tabs on the light sockets and pull the sockets from the housing.. and then push the sockets through the holes of housing remove all the screws from the rear wall from top to bottom upon removal of the section just under the ice.machine and behind the light socket you.will find the evap fan and it's bracket remove the 2 screws and pull straight up on the fan blade be carefully to not break its best to pull from the center of fan blade .remove the clip and thermistor that's connected to top of the evap coil. While your there remove the defrost thermostat to do this the clamp that holds it to the coil is a split clamp and you gently push on the clamp upper section and pull the lower section and it will seperate enough for you to remove the thermostat the other thermistors are in the fridge section 2 are on the divider wall behind the plastic oval plastic.housings one just above the the middle.of fridge the other is.lower section. And finally 1 more is at the very bottom of fridge last drawer on right hand side to.remove this you need to remove the light cover. Remove the plastic half round plastic deflector and the foam behind it remove the water reservoir screws and open the freezer at the bottom center wall at the back is a round plastic damper cover with a Phillip screw remove that ,on fridge side remove the 4 screws that hold the lower damper housing to the bottom of fridge gently and slowly work your way around the center seam and aeperate the upper cover of damper housing and expose the thermistor and replace. Note on all the thermistors just cut off enough to splice in replacement I personally used water tight heat shrink soldered type butts work great

REPLACING THE DEFROST HEATER & BRA:
1- Empty freezer.
2- Remove all shelves.
3- Remove white painted metal wall plate opposite
the freezer door. There are 2 phillips head screws
attaching it.
4- There may be ice build-up on the freezer coils,
thaw the ice using a hair dryer.
5- Remove the 2 phillips screws holding the
defrost heater to the freezer coil frame, at the
bottom of the frame.
6- Install the defrost heater to the frame.
7- Replace metal panel.

REPLACING THE DEFROST THERMOSTAT.

1-Perform steps 1-4 above.
2-Locate the thermostat at the top of the freezer
coil in the freezer.
3-Cut the wires connecting the thermostat.
4-Connect the new thermostat to the wires that
were connecting the old thermostat, connecting
the wire color to the same color wire.

Note: Connect the wires by using wire splices
available at radio shack. Use splices
sized for 20 guage wire, and wrap with
electrical tape to protect from moisture.

5- Replace metal panel.

Bing , Bang, Boom.

I popped the switch out using the blade of a small screwdriver and noticed that it connected with two wires via a slide on connector for each one. I noted the info on the old switch to identify which wire went to which terminal. I held each wire with a pair of pliers while I pulled the wire connector off the terminal on the old switch. I connected the two wires to the correct terminals on the new swith, and popped the switch back into the door frame. Easy, easy, easy and saved the $40 service call + parts cost!

Watched video, however could not get outer casing off. Under the panel are three small holes, pushed up with an Allen key, used a small screwdriver to wedge out, came out easily, followed instructions from video on removing and replacing solenoid