GYE22KSHSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the catch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.

Poped out with screwdriver the old swithch and unplugged the two wires. Plugged in the wires to the new swithch and pushed it back in the hole where the old switch was before.

removed frig bottom long drawer, removed the 2 narrower drawers above that. removed 2 plastic plates above the long drawer and unplugged pigtail. removed lower drawer slides and the back coil cover. removed small shroud that contained the fan pigtail and then removed the fan and replaced with the new one. fixed cooling issue and took 10 minutes from start to finish.

Very simply remove the dust cover you will see fan in front of condensor it simply slides out unplug the two plugs and then take the time to clean dust with vacum (I used air compressor to blow dust out) reinstall takes about 15 mins total start to finish.

After researching the likely cause online, I found that the lights inside the doors are wired in series, and if one led fails, the remaining lights dim.
I located the non working light by holding my hand in front of each light until I found the inoperative one. After receiving the replacement part, gently removed the light from the door frame with the trim removal tool, unplugged the failed light and plugged the new one in. Pressed the light back into place in the frame and all was well.

Took the drawers out of fridge and unscrewed the support rails for drawers and unscrewed inside back wall of fridge. Removed cover on blower fan ~ unplugged fan. This took 45 mins. Left refrigerator unplugged and let thaw out. Replaced with new fan 5 days later. Plugged in new fan. Then
Plugged in refrigerator to make sure it would work. After 15 minutes, unplugged fridge and put rails and drawers back. Total time 45 minutes. Plugged refrigerator back in and let run 24 hours.
It took 5 days to get part due to snow storm delaying delivery. It works perfectly. Our GE will be 10 years old in August.

Simple repair, rolled refrigerator out, disconnected power, removed 4 screws holding door board, disconnected wire harness, replaced board on bench, returned to refrigerator, plugged in wire harnessing, replaced screws, plugged in, waited about 5 min. Tried door water dispense and it worked. Took a while for ice make to get up to speed, but it also works great.
After have a tech come out to look at, and he said it was freezing inside the door and needed a new door for right at $1,000.00, and nothing seem to indicate that as the problem. We took it on ourselves to try Partselect, ordered several extra parts, but only used the door board, returns went easy and i was refunded my money before I even sent the parts back. Great Service

While the switch did last for 9 years, the design is poor due to the failure mode. The failure should be to fail off or not able to turn on the lights which would be inconvenient but would not warm the refrigerator contents. Arcing at the contacts eventually caused the switch to "weld" closed. It is not obvious that this is occurring so it took some time to recognize why the temp inside the ref was high while the freezer was OK. Replacing the switch was easy once it was recognized as the problem. All that was required to replace the switch was to remove the screws holding a fiber cover and then pulling off the aluminum cap which covered the switches. Unplug the switch an squeeze the keeper on the switch to release it and pull down. Pop the replacement switch in place and plug the wires harness back in. All in all it took much less time to replace than it has to write this up. T Pope

The existing light switch was very hard to remove. I ended up having to grab it with a pair of pliers and pull it out. Once it was out, it was very easy to put in the replacement and it seems to be working fine.

REMOVE LOWER DRAWERS, SHELF AND BACK EVAPORATOR COVER AND REPLACE SIEZED EVAPORATOR BLOWER MOTOR.

EXCHANGED THE LED LAMP ASSEMBLY. ONLY DO ONE AT A TIME AS THEY ARE WIRED IN SERIES!

as described, I used a thin screwdriver to wedge in and pull down existing, broken switch. I was able to pull it down about a 1/4 inch, but wasn't quit able to disegage it until I gripped it with pliers. I then pulled it out, unplugged the old switch, plugged in the new switch, and carefully tucked the wires back into the fridge and snapped the new switch into place.

10 minutes total.

Repair man thought it was the control board and an issue with a relay on the board. Purchased the new board but found out the board was fine, and it was the recirculating fan that would go out intermediately.

Tried ordering that part from Part Select since they have been great, but GE discontinued the part and their was not a replacement available. After much research, found the new replacement part number and ordered that, it went in quickly and for now seems to have solved the problem.

Watch this very good refrigerator evaporator fan replacement video

Removed the bad inlet valve and installed the replacement. Very easily done. The replacement part made the repair so simple and saved me a huge amount over calling a repair man. It did not take any special knowledge.