GWE23GMNFES General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

1. Turned power off.
2. Removed 2 screws holding plastid plate which connected electrical wire from mullion to door (requires Torq-tip screwdriver).
3. Unplugged wire plug behind the plate.
4. Lifted up old mullion from 2 slots holding it in place to remove it from door.
5. Inserted new mullion into slots on door.
6. Connected electrical wire to plug inside door.
7. Screwed 2 screws to reattached plastic plate to door.
8. Turned power back on.

The glass fits easily under a plastic ridge that is the frame holding the 2 vegetable drawers below. Slide the back side of the glass under the ridge, and then gently place the front of the glass in the groove where it goes on top of the vegetable drawers.
Its Super simple, and takes literally 30 seconds to complete.

I followed u-tube instructions.
Took off the old switch and put the new one on.

Used ratchet set, and unscrewed old one and screwed in new. Disconnected the wires and plugged in new one.

After replacing the light bulb and still no light I manually pushed the light switch button. Intermittently the light would come on then go out. I removed the power plug from the power source then replaced the light switch. I plugged the refrigerator back in and now I open the door the light comes on and stays on until the door is closed.

The old switch was hard to remove. Thinking that I may have to loosen the wires I used a socket wrench to remove a clamp. This was unnecessary. In the end the switch did come out using a large size screwdriver. The problem was that the expanding plastic tongue is not visible from the ouside so you have to try to feel your way around. If i had ordered the replacement before and not afterwards I would have seen this before hand.

Safety first, unplug fridge. Had to remove the top access panel, which consisted of 5 screws. Got access to the door switches. These are removed from the panel by depressing the plunger on the switch and sliding them out of the retainer. Transferred the wires over to the new switches one for one. Re-assembled. Dispenser works.

Simply take off the back panel. Remove the old run capacitor which is attached to the compressor by a white part. It pulls right off. You will have to unplug two wires. I took a pic to ensure I plugged the wires back up the correct way. Then I attached the new capacitor to the white part and put on the sleeve that was included, plugged it back into the compressor and zip tied the excess part of the sleeve. Once done plug fridge back up (always unplug electric devices when doing maintenance) to check before replacing back panel. It may take a few minutes before it kicks on.

The replacement part comes as an egg-shaped assembly with a receptacle for the socket. I cut the power to the fridge, although that was probably not necessary. The old assembly could be pried out with a fingernail, and the socket can be removed by pressing a small tab. The socket then slides right into the new assembly, which can then be pressed into place before turning the power back on. All refrigerator lights are then at full strength.

I ordered two switches, replaced both with a knife in 10 minutes. Interior light works, thanks.

I followed the directions included with the water filter and it was simple. The only problem I had was not being strong enough to easily remove the old filter. I did accomplish that after a few tries and the rest is history.

I found instructions on the web about how to do this repair, so I ordered the part with confidence. But the instructions simply said "pull out the old switchlight". That was actually somewhat difficult as the clip on the side intended to hold the part in was stubborn. I eventually used a utility to slice off the clip. From that point, it was just a matter of plugging in the new switchlight , which was very simple.

Purchased parts per your diagram and went to a appliance store to see how it was assemble

I didn’t open the part till I verified it was the same. Then I detached the assembly from the fridge and swapped the water lines individually. The metal bracket had gotten bent a little in shipment, but straightened easily and all went back together.

I diagnosed the sensors in my refrigerator by holding the sensor in and seeing if I could trick the sensor it partially worked. I then used a multimeter and did an ohm test on both sensors multiple times open and closed the switch to verify which switch failed because it worked a couple times but not always. It ended up being the switch on the left hand door with 3 terminals on it and after the replacement it has worked great for weeks now no issue. best 15 dollars and 25 minutes spent!