GSS22JETBWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

lower left of back of fridge. remove cardboard. remove bolt. unplug electrical connectors. remove water inlet line with wrench. cut water outlet lines as close to valve as possible. slide outlet lines into new valve in same holes until they stop. they are secure. attach inlet water line. plug electrical connectors back in. bolt it back to fridge.

replace shelf

Unplugged fridge and removed back panel inside freezer compartment . Unclipped defrost thermostat and snipped off with wire cutters . Installed new defrost thermostat with wire nuts , clipped back on , re-installed back panel , turned on fridge and within a couple hours food compartment began cooling down . Thermostat looks like a small metal can clipped onto the heating coils with 2 wires attached . Also noticed excess ice build up on coils melted and drained into pan under fridge once unit started working .

used prior reviews, was good, I was not sure how to remove fan blade. It just pulls off.
space is tight but every thing went ok.

I pulled the refrigerator out so I could get behind it. Then I turned off the water at the tubing valve near the floor and pulled the electrical plug. Next I removed the metal panel on the back at the bottom. The water tubing to the valved helped to locate that valve that need to be replaced. I disconnected the electric wiring to the tandom water valves (there are two valves in one body, one for the water in the door and the other for the ice maker). There is only one water tube(copper) connected to the valve inlet and two outlet plastic tubes, one for the water and the other for the ice maker. I used a wrench on the inlet tubing and just cut the plastic outlet tubes with a knife. I then removed one screw holding the valve bracket to the referigerator flange and removed the valve. The installion was in reverse order with the valve bracket being attached with one screw and then connecting the copper inlet tibing with a wrench. The two outlet plastic tubes just push in to place in the valve bodies, since one is larger than the other, they can't be reversed. Once this is done, connect the electric wiring to the two valve sections, they are not be switched either. then install the rear metal pannel and plug in the electrical cord and roll the refrigerator back in place and try out the water in the door to see if it leaks or not. It will start making ice when the ice ben gets low enough. (One more thing, it might take a little longer to perform this task if your wife has to clean behind the referigerator while it is convenient.)

Removed the back cover over the control board, and made sure that the board was the same. It didn't look exactly the same, but figured that it was the same, just updated. Took out the board, moved the wires to the new board and reinstalled. Plugged it in and it came on, so I reinstalled the cover. Seems to be working to this day.

The repair did not go exactly the way it was described in the YouTube video, but basically it was similar. After unplugging the power cord, emptying the freezer, removing the shelves and the ice reservoir, I removed the ice maker assembly by unscrewing a Philips head screw and unplugging the power connector. The connector had little retaining tabs on each side that I pried open with a straight blade screwdriver. Then the ice maker lifted right out. Next I removed one screw holding the auger motor assembly, unplugged the power connector, and lifted out the assembly. This where things got difficult. After flailing around a bit, I removed the panel on the back wall of the freezer below the evaporator fan assembly, exposing the evaporator coil. I saw that the fan assembly was attached with two screws at the top and two screws at the bottom. The top screws were easily removed, but when I removed the bottom screws, which were situated in very tight quarters, I DROPPED BOTH SCREWS DOWN BEHIND THE EVAPORATOR COIL. Be prepared with a magnetic nutdriver so this doesn't happen to you. I could not retrieve the lost screws, but fortunately it appears that the top screws hold the assembly securely enough. The assembly was loose, but it was still attached by a power cord that I could not disconnect. I removed the tracks on the side walls for the ice bucket, and then I could maneuver the fan motor assembly just enough that I could reach over the top of it, grab and pull off the old fan blade, and slide the new fan blade onto the shaft. Reassembly was straightforward, replacing each part (except two lost screws) in reverse order to disassembly. After getting everything put back in and plugging in the power cord, I was amazed at how quiet it ran.

De-energized the refrigerator (Model: GSH25JFTA WW); going from the bottom of the switch, used a tool to pull it out; disconnected the electric cables from the switch (the leads are covered very well); connected the new switch; pushed the new switch in place; re-energized the refrigerator.

pulled the board away from the 4 plastic pins, unplugged the wires and plugged them directly into the new noard, pushed board back onto the four plastic pins.......job completed in under 5 minutes. Fridge working fine now for over a week......no problems.

1 opened door 2. pryed cover off from cieling 3.cut and stripped wires on 4. sodered wires from old wires to new sensor. 5 insulated conection.6 put cover back on. This did not fix the problem it was the control moduel.

removed 2 - 1/4" screws and 2 phillip screws to take off the evap cover, then 2 phillip srews to take out the defrost heater assembly, replaced and put everything back together. no problem.
I GOT THE PART SO FAST THAT I WAS SURPRISED TO SEE IT THERE!

Pulled out the fridge and unplugged electric cord. Took off the back lower right side panel. Unplugged all the connectors and removed the motherboard. Replaced the motherboard and reconnected connectors. Replaced the panel and plugged it in. Works great!

remove back panel inside fridge freezer side, everything frosted, unplug and used a hair dryer

1. Took out defrost heater and the bottom and tested (per this site) tested OK.

2. Then looked at the defrost thermostat, it was swollen with the top coming off. so i new it was bad
3.clipped and stripped the 2 wires, spliced in the new one with wire nuts and sealed them with silicone. All better

took the back off and defrosted with a hairdryer. disconected the part pulled the part out cut the wires. put the other part on and instaled it. put it back together and it seems to be working just fine. thank you

I used a volt/ohm meter and checked for power to compressor and start run relays, diagnosis- was remove and replace motherboard