PFSF5NFWAWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

replace sensor in refriger.

I can't tell you how luck I feel after finding your website I ordered the temperature sensor after watching one of your videos on-line and the repair went just as on the video. I pulled the "bad" sensor out, and replaced it with the new one. Keep in mind that this is the first time I ever touch an appliance, needless to say I'm feeling pretty good about that! All in all it took me about 20 minutes to complete my repair and it now has been about 4 days and the refrigerator is working like new again!

replaced the icemaker inlet valve. works like a champ now

First of all unplug refrigerator. Removed cover plate at lower rear of refrigerator. Marked and unplugged connectors. squeezed plastic projections with pliers to release board from refrigerator making sure not to break them. Reattached new board over plastic projections and reconnected plug in electrical connectors. Reattached cover plat making sure the ground wire is placed back under top middle screw. Plug in the refrigerator making sure the water in turned on before sliding the refrigerator back in place. Wait for ice to drop. Less than an hour.

changed sensors did not repair problem,replaced damper with mechanical damper fixed problem.

Little difficult getting the switch out, had to pry wth some force. New installation was real easy.

Followed the repair video, was spot on!!

luckly i have a bit of experience in refrigeration im an hvac technician by trade. this repair was a bit tricky in that i did not know at first if it was a Temperature Sensor issue or the main control board. I had tested the defrost termination thermostat and the defrost heater and as i suspected they were ok. Next i wanted to test the thermistors (temp sensors) it is hard to find technical data on these fridges. I needed to test the thermistors resistance @ a certian temperature to ensure they were working properly but where do u get such data? I also wanted to know some information about the logic programmed into the board (i.e when do you initiate defrost etc. . .). I had no such luck so i figured since i tested the defrost heater and thermostat and they were ok and all of the evap fans and such were working i'd order a circuit board and new thermistors. Got the CORRECT PARTS from this site in 2 business days and my fridge is working great! changing the parts was really easy, figuring out which parts to change was the only difficult thing about this job.

followed part select video instructions

I have a GE Profile French door refrig. It's only about 4 yrs old and the defroster stopped working. I read the other repair stories and was able to narrow it down to either the temp sensor, defrost timer, or main board. The refrig section was up to about 47 degrees and freezer was around 25. I could tell it was trying to cool but couldn't. So I tried the temp sensor first. I cut and spliced the new sensor on the outlet of the Evap. Coil and it took about 15 mins. Turned refrig back on and waited. The coil started to ice over after about 5 hrs I left the back panel off so I could see if and when then heater kicked on. After about 8 hrs I looked in and saw a faint glow and water trickling down and running out the drain. Turned out the sensor was bad and wasn't telling the main board it needed to defrost. I would try the sensor if you are having the same issues before spending a lot of money on the main board, defrost heater and or timer.

remove the Ice tray, remove hex bolts from ice tray hangers on side of freezer. unscrew ice maker and remove it. Remove ice tray auger motor assembaly (4 hex bolts) remove 2 more hex bolts from top of rear inside panel. remove 4 hex bolts from lower panel as well. now with lower section out, you should see the last 2 hex bolts holding on plastic shield (top section rear panel) un screw light cover. Squeeze light fixture and push in. now remove entire top section of panel. All will be exposed. Remove old motor housing, disconnect wires, remove clip from coils. (NEW MOTOR DOES NOT HAVE CLIP OR WIRE FOR COILS)Attatch new motor and replace grommits. Reverse instructions for re installation.

it was easy the only thing was i had to cut old harness to remove 2 wires that went to coil that had to go back in the new harness other then that a peice of cake.

My refrigerator was making a high pitched kind of howling noise. The PartSelect symptom that was closest was “unusual noise” and when I clicked that it said the evaporator fan motor fixes the symptom 32% of the time. Since my freezer fan speed sounded like it was constantly changing I went ahead and bought one which PartSelect delivered promptly. The installation video was great and although my freezer was not identical to the one in the video, the video was still very helpful. The only thing it didn’t say was how to tell if my freezer motor was the one with the thermistor although I suspect that they all are and that PartSelect is simply trying to save us money by showing us how to splice in a motor without a thermistor. Anyway, since I would have had to disassemble the freezer before buying the part to find out for sure, I just bought the one without the thermistor. This just meant I had to splice the new motor in, just like in the video. I think I would have preferred buying the motor with the thermistor even though it was more expensive. In the end my problem is solved so I’m happy. This is the third time that I’ve had to repair this GE refrigerator and PartSelect has been a valuable resource each time.

Ironically I did this today, as this email request came up asking how it went. I'm not a repairman, I'm a software engineer, and I can't thank this site enough for the step by step videos. With the video to help, this was a breeze, I was nervous as I had to empty all my freezer out onto the living room floor. Once that was done the repair took about 30 minutes. Thank you partselect!!!!! My second time doing business here, and I'll be coming back (well, if something breaks, so let's hope I don't have to).

I had replaced the sensors, thermostat and evaporater heater without correcting the problem. Decided to try the control board. The main problem has been the ice in icemaker melting every couple of days and thawing all over the freezer food. The top part of the freezer compartment thawed with less thawing in the lower section. Removed back metal cover. Unplugged fridge, took picture of control board to remember locations of connections. Never needed it though as I took caution to remember the different connections. Unplugged all of the connections and then took needle nose pliers to depress the 4 pins holding the control board in place one at a time. This was a bit difficult and you will need to exercise patience. Not my long suit. Eventually I depressed the pins correctly and got the old control board to slide out. Replaced with new control board and re-connected all the wire harnesses. They actually slide on pretty easily if you have them in the correct position. I also had taken all the food out of the freezer and removed the cover to the evaporator which was iced up. Took a hair dryer and thawed all the ice before re-starting the fridge to give it a nice clean start. Replaced the back panel and plugged in the fridge. 4 days now and it is running great so far. A lot quieter than before.