PTS22LCSARCC General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Bing , Bang, Boom.

I went in with the toolbox, and couldn't see the screws to loosen, so I tugged the gasket to see how it was attached. It just snapped down into a groove in the door. Pulled out the old one, snapped in the new one, and voila, it was done! Happy day, lucky me! Didn't even need my husband's help.

The original Ice maker water inlet valve proved to be good, I discovered that the water tube that delivers water to the ice maker was packed with ice. I remover the tube and ran hot water on it until it was ice free. Please check that tube before purcashing and installing any parts.

I noticed that if I unplugged the refrigerator and plugged it back in a while later it would start working but eventually would stop. I deduced the problem was likely the defrost thermostat. I ordered the thermostat but it was in a difficult place behind the evaporator coil which I could not remove. While I was trying to work it into position my hand pressed against the defrost coil and shattered the glass sheath. I ordered the coil and finally managed to get it and the thermostat installed. The refrigerator seems to work fine now.

I watched the on live video. Piece of cake!

I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance

Raised side of fridge enough to get 1/4" ratchet with 1/4" socket under roller wheel assy. Removed three hex-head screws to separate damaged wheel assy from fridge frame. From panel below fridge compartment, backed-out stripped leveling screw. Mounted new roller assy and then threaded in new leveling screw from front. Lowered fridge and adjusted leveling screw for proper height. Suggest putting a 2x4 under fridge for safety when hands are under unit.

Thanks to the very fine posts on this site, and availablity of parts, I didn't have to call in a repair man. Due to the near-10 year age of unit, I first ordered a new fridge for the kitchen and moved the GE to the garage. Let it manually defrost. Figured based upon comments posted here I was dealing with the defrost system problem so ordered the temperature sensors for top and botton, the defrost thermostat, and the defrost heater. As a wise poster said, if I am going to pull the damn thing apart, I'm going to make sure I have all three parts in case I need a particular one. Do not have the skill or gauges to troubleshoot electrical components. Parts arrived from Parts Select in great time, and excellent packaging protection. Parts Select also has great diagrams of the unit, although I could not find written repair instructions anywhere. At first I was going to wait for the parts to arrive and replace everything, but since there was a dely in getting the new fridge in, and the freezer section of the old fridge worked fine, once I had defrosted the old fridge, and cleaned up a few of the rusted over connections, I put everything back together, to await new fridge and receipt of parts for old fridge. Well, as is the story of my Karmic life, once fridge defrosted, and I put everything back together, plugged old unit in inside garage, everything came back up working perfectly on the recommended settings for both freezer and fridge sections. Has continued to maintain correct temps for over a week now. Also have new fridge. Don't recommend the top freezer Maytag one for about $700, as construction is cheap, and temps fluctuate all over the place. Had Home Depot exchange out for the LG $740 top freezer model, and am really impressed with its construction and performance so far. (Both units are recommended buys by ConsumerRepots.Org) Not sure how long old unit will keep running correctly, nor what caused it to come back to life after the defrost. Perhaps a simple clogged drain tube, or shorted out rusted electrical connections that I cleaned. Anyway, am keeping Part Select parts on hand for possible future breakdown, and enjoying having both fridges running. We needed additional freezer space, and got the peace of mind of a new unit for the kitchen.

First, we called Sears Repair and had a technician come to our home. He stated the motherboard had gone bad probably due to a power surge (we had no surge protector on the appliance). His price for repair was $465.00. We opted to go online for the part and found it for $165.00 through PartSelect.com. It was a very simple procedure of removing the old and installing the new. A few turns with the nut driver to uncover the part, a few tugs with the pliers to disconnect and voila!.. The fridge was back to cooling in no time.

Ordered the icemaker replacement. unplugged the unit, followed the simple instructions and got it done in less than 30 minutes. It did take a LONG time to start making ice. But it's working now.

Replaced defrost thermostat along with temp sensor watched the video on this page simple fix

Only tool I used was 1/4 inch socket. Using the 1/4 inch socket, the screws were removed from the panel covering the control board. (this is on the back in the lower right corner). When this panel is off you are looking at the control board. Next remove all the plug in connectors. Don't worry about remembering where they go. They all are different and can only go in their specific place. After removing the connectors, pull the board out. Replace the plug in connectors before putting the new board back in , then snap the board back into place.(held in by four pins). Replace the cover.

I used pliers to pull lightly on the head of the switch, while I inserted a small flat head screw driver into the base of switch and gently worked around the edges to free it from the panel.

Was concerned that new icemaker was quite a bit different than the one we were replacing. Called GE to confirm it was correct.

Went ahead and installed the unit, using the supplied electric cable adapter.

A little difficult to deal with the extra cable, but everything worked OK and it's making ice normally.

first i removed the three screws that covered the circuit board that was bad. then i removed the 6 connectors that went from the refrigerator to the board then popped out the old board , popped in the new board reconnected the circuit connectors covered everything back up and my refrigerator is back on line. this all took about 10 to 15 minutes time ... thank you for your product it really did the job..