RG2300NGMR0 General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Simple fix with information furnished online with the Dispenser Door Solenoid Assembly. Unplug fridge, remove selection panel by pulling out gently at the bottom until it releases then unplug the 3 connectors, remove next panel by unscrewing the 4 corner screws, then remove the solenoid by loosening the top screw and removing the two on the bottom, wipe all clean and reassemble in reverse with new solenoid hanging piston over ice door flapper lever first then sliding it into solenoid as you move it into position. Easy fix....$35 hopefully extended the life of a faithful older fridge for a few more years since it work/looks new.

I repaired IAW the PartSelect video. Very easy. One thing that should be mentioned in the troubleshooting process, is to check the retention spring on the flapper. That spring could come off and also cause the flapper not to close.

I tried to follow the video...it looked easy enough to do and would have been if the trim came off! I had to go to the reviewer who said to undo the 3 springs under the keypad (found on the white part behind the touchpad). I just took an eyeglass screwdriver and pushed up...it was easy to follow the solenoid installation video from there! If I can do it...anyone can! I'm a 65year old female.

follow repair viedo

Pull fridge away from wall and unplug it! Turn water valve off. Open freezer door and stuff a small rag/washcloth in hole where ice exits to keep the cold air in. There are 3 small holes on the bottom of the control panel, stick a small Phillips head screwdriver in the 2 outside holes and pop the control panel out. Pull the 3 connectors out of the back of the control panel. Set the control panel aside. Unscrew 4 Phillips head screws holding the plastic control panel bracket/ice cup/light bulb. Set this piece aside. Unscrew 3 screws that hold solenoid. Mine was completely rusted. Throw the old solenoid in the garbage. All the screws I removed were rusted. Go to home depot get some stainless steel screws that are the same size as the rusted screws and some spray rust inhibitor for metal and a tube of anti-seize. Wipe everything down with 1/10 solution of Clorox/water(q-tips help to get the tight areas)to get rid of all the MOLD. Spray a light coat of rust inhibitor on your new solenoid and let it dry. Coat the metal plunger of your new solenoid with anti- seize lubricant. Replace solenoid and all other screws that are rusted with stainless steel screws. Put the plastic bracket back in with 4 screws. Plug the 3 control panel wires back in and pop the control panel in the bracket. Pull the rag out of the ice chute, turn water back on, plug fridge in and push it back against the wall. Your done and hopefully the extra steps will help your solenoid last longer! Hope this helps!

I just follow to the video and take step by step. It's was very helpful and easy. Thank you.

Watching the outstanding, detailed video provided the insight and confidence necessary to place the part order and complete the repair. The most difficult part of the procedure was removal of the front panel that identifies the buttons for various functions (i.e. water, ice, crushed ice, etc). Note that this panel differs slightly from one model to another so the process may be slightly more difficult than pictured in the video. Our refrigerator has removable decorator panels which I removed first (both above and below the dispenser section), an additional step I strongly recommend for owners of models with such panels. To do so, a male Torx socket is required to remove screws at the top of the door, allowing the metal side panel on the left to be removed, prior to sliding the decorator panels out. Now onto removing the front panel as in the video - although the video repairman completed this step without any tools, it must be CAREFULLY pried by hand. Experience has taught me that older plastic parts that "snap in" often become fatigued and suffer stress fractures if not breaking off entirely. This is a fairly rigid piece of plastic on our unit that wasn't cooperative until I coaxed it from one (left) side with a large, flat screwdriver and a little twisting motion to get things started. Once I was able to pop one corner loose, the other 7 connecting tabs were relatively easy to remove (there are 8 total - 2 on each side as I recall). The rest of the process was simple, exactly as demonstrated in the video. Thanks SO MUCH for all of the expertise and high production values that made this repair "a piece of cake". Incidentally, by simply removing the old solenoid ASAP, the door snaps shut, sealing off the freezer compartment while you wait for your new part to arrive.

Ironically I did this today, as this email request came up asking how it went. I'm not a repairman, I'm a software engineer, and I can't thank this site enough for the step by step videos. With the video to help, this was a breeze, I was nervous as I had to empty all my freezer out onto the living room floor. Once that was done the repair took about 30 minutes. Thank you partselect!!!!! My second time doing business here, and I'll be coming back (well, if something breaks, so let's hope I don't have to).

it was easy the only thing was i had to cut old harness to remove 2 wires that went to coil that had to go back in the new harness other then that a peice of cake.

My refrigerator was making a high pitched kind of howling noise. The PartSelect symptom that was closest was “unusual noise” and when I clicked that it said the evaporator fan motor fixes the symptom 32% of the time. Since my freezer fan speed sounded like it was constantly changing I went ahead and bought one which PartSelect delivered promptly. The installation video was great and although my freezer was not identical to the one in the video, the video was still very helpful. The only thing it didn’t say was how to tell if my freezer motor was the one with the thermistor although I suspect that they all are and that PartSelect is simply trying to save us money by showing us how to splice in a motor without a thermistor. Anyway, since I would have had to disassemble the freezer before buying the part to find out for sure, I just bought the one without the thermistor. This just meant I had to splice the new motor in, just like in the video. I think I would have preferred buying the motor with the thermistor even though it was more expensive. In the end my problem is solved so I’m happy. This is the third time that I’ve had to repair this GE refrigerator and PartSelect has been a valuable resource each time.

i followed a video that was on your site, the video couldn't have been easier to follow it was step by step and very easy to follow, i replaced the evaporator fan motor and everything is working fine, i did notice that the evaporator coil was frozen pretty bad when i removed the back freezer panel i am going to check it again in a couple of weeks to make sure i don't have a defrosting problem as of now everything is fine i am hoping it was just the bad fan motor causing the coil to freeze up because of no air movement over the coil

followed you online video and it was easy and simple repair only took about an hour frig is back quiet and working fine thanks also parts come fast

The video was clear and the repair looked easy. My only problem was that the trim piece that had to be removed first was very hard to get off. I called PartSelect and ask if I was doing it correctly. (I didn't want to damage anything else) The person I talked to said that they don't provide technical service help but that he'd look at the diagram of the refrigerator to see if he could help me. He was able to confirm that I just had to apply more force to get it off. With the aid of a putty knife I was able to pry it off. After that I followed the video instructions and it was easy to make the repair. Things went back together easily and the problem was resolved.

I followed the video provided by PartSelect, very helpful. I had to cut and splice 4 wires. The repair was successful. The replacement part was an exact duplicate of the original. I still notice the same sound but one tenth the volume. I hope the problem does not return. Many thanks to PartSelect for information to identify the problem and prompt shipping of the repair part.

Followed the video instructions with the help of a young man who worked on trailer hitches before and knew how to splice wires. Beware of splicing the wrong fan motor back into the assembly. . . . That happened here and we had to start the splicing all over again with the correct fan motor.