MSG20GWSAWH General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Followed the instructions and replaced the door recess.

Took the door contents out and put them on the counter, took the door off the hinges by unscrewing the 2 screws on the top of the Fridge and lifting the door off the hinge onthe bottom. Then laid down the Fridge on the kitchen floor and replaced the Door Closing Cam, keeping in mind the order of the 3 shims and other things on the bottom of the door. Simple.

The bottom of the door was 5 " off the floor. A 2x4 block and a 4x4 block were pushed under the door and supported it while the water line was disconnected the hinge removed and the cam replaced. It was a simple fix and reading other people's experience made the repair so much easier.

I did not realize I needed 2 cams to complete repair. Door cam was riveted in. I had to drill out rivet and replace with nut and bolt. Otherwise it went quite sommothly. At first I just replaced the cam on bottom of refridgerator but door was not quite right when closing. Further inspection showed the door had the other half of cam that also needed replacement. Needed 2 orders. Paid for 2 shippings.

Pay close attention to how you disassemble everything. You might even want to take a picture. I taped all the screws right where I unscrewed them, to make sure they were replaced in the right section. Also use the picture diagram that on the computer.

Buy ( 2 ) cams !!!! removed hinge cover and hinge on top of the door, ( 2 screws )...lift door off of the bottom hinge and lay door on the floor, remove broken cam on bottom of door with nut driver, ( 2 screws ) , install new cam..... remove the bottom hinge off of the front of the refrigerator with nut driver, (2 screws ).... saw rivit off and remove old cam, install new cam and secure with new bolt and nut,... reinstall hinge back on bottom front of refigerator.....replace door back onto the bottom hinge.....install top hinge back onto the top of the door....replace hinge cover......done !

Followed step-by-step instructions in previous post. Note that there are TWO approaches, both of which work.

Option 1) Order TWO cams (PS297995), drill out the rivet holding the frame's cam, and replace it with a nut and bolt. (See post on 07/19/09.)

Option 2) Order the entire hinge assembly (PS290199), which includes the door's cam and an assembled frame hinge and cam. (See post on 10/29/08.)

We opted for Option 1 which was pretty easy. Option 2 would be even easier and take less time but costs about $9 more.

Thanks to previous posters for excellent instructions!

We taped the door with 3 pieces of duct tape, then put boards under it. Used socket set to remove cam and then cut off rivet so we could just use a screw to keep in place. . . Just for your information, I ordered 2 cams, and was glad I did as I need 2 to make the repair. . . Didn't read about this online or on order recommendation. The cams go 1 up and 1 down thanks for the installation repair stories, it inspired us to "do it ourselves " and we saved about $75 to $100. 00

remove the 'pop-out " frame around the door recess, you pry the flexable seal from around the ice despenser, have someone hold the unit with the wiring, remove the one screw that holds the door recess, and replace the new one. reverse the procedure. remember to unplug thr frig. first

I removed the broken shelf that I had duct-taped in place until the replacement arrived. I simply slipped the four little notches (2 on each side of the shelf) into their appropriate slots and--voila!--my new shelf was installed!

The disassembly and reassembly was straightforward but the parts diagram was very helpful to help you get it back together. Make sure you get the convexity of the clip that retains the clear plastic barrel to the auger pointing in the right direction. The metal plate that that comes out with the assembly seems to rust as fast as the auger, so you should just order that when you order the auger. I did not replace the plate so I cleaned it and painted it with epoxy paint before I reassembled.

there was rust inbedded in the ice cube. replaced the front plate in the ice maker bin. If you can't remember what parts you remover, take pictures of the replacement

Since my refrig is 18 yrs. old and I never had to replace it, took a little long to remove trim piece on the outside. After that repair went smoothly. I still have problem with water collecting inside on the bottom of the freezer, might have a leak somewhere. Ice maker is functioning correctly.

The solenoid in the dispenser was overheated due to the control board failure. After I rerplaced the board I found the heat had distorted the plastic crank and jammed the solenoid action. The plastic crank was easy to replace. Now after expending approx. $75 everything works normally!

Had to take front panel off dispenser area. Then remove components and install new part. That was easy part. Problem was getting components back into front of freezer. Seemed like something was blocking it from going all the way in. Had to remove small amount of insulation and "jiggle" components and eventually fell into place.