GSS23GGPECCC General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Take off all , then install.. following the version..

I located the light switch at the bottom of the area where the door closes. I just popped it out with a small screwdriver and installed the new switch. A 2 wire connecter and small clip is all there is to it.

I pulled the bulb out to see if it was the bulb, no! I took the switch out, of course with the refer unplugged, and jummped out the wires and the light came on. Ordered my switch and put it in in 10 seconds and then there was light! Thanks again for showing me the light!

Tim in NJ

Put the new one in--simple!

I got the model # off the fridge, ordered the part online. The part was fairly cheap and was at my house 2 days after I ordered it. It was the exact part and I installed it in about 15 minutes and everyting worked out fine and easy and cheap, under $15 total to fix the issue. All I needed to do was use a flathead screwdriver to "pop" out the old switch, remove the 2 wires off the wire connection points, put the wires on the new switch and push it back into place. easy. Great place to get exact parts and fast shipping.

Really simple... broken light switch easily removed with flat edge screw driver. Once removed unplug and plug new one in and good to go.

replacement part was not identical to the original. Mounting screw sockets did not exist on replacement part. I still used the new part but it is held in place by gravity (no screws). New part works but must be treated gently or will break like the original or fall out of place. Part diagrams online were not adequately clear. It would have been good if photos existed of the replacement from assorted angles, and I would have seen the lack of mounting screw sockets.

Changing out solenoid was very easy, but you don't have to remove trim ring and it didn't fix my problem. Turns out a relay fell out of its holder in the piece you have after removing the 4 screws per the video.

After inspection of the new door recess assembly, I realized that I could use sidecutters (electronic assembly type) and 'clip' off the inward lock tabs of the old recess assembly and disengage it from the crank door arm without any further disassembly of the refrigerator door. It was easy to 'unhitch' the tang from the crank arm and wiggle it out through the external opening of the ice/water dispenser compartment. I reversed the process and inserted the new assembly through the external opening of the compartment. The new door recess assembly snapped into place on the crank arm and fit tightly against the ice chute opening, correcting the issue caused by aging distortion of the old rubber seal cup portion of the door recess assembly.

Super easy. Hardest part was popping the plastic covers off without breaking them. I had to use a butter knife to get under it & lift it just enough
to grab it & pull easy until it turned loose.

We opened the box, unpacked the drawer, washed and dried it, installed it! No muss, no fuss!

I thought this was my problem as this part causes 90% of the no water issue. However, replacing this part did not fix my problem. I suggest that you test the valve first by disconnecting the water feed from the filter and running the line into a bucket. Once disconnected press the water on the freezer door and see if water comes out.
Other than that, this part is easy to install. Take off the plastic in front of the filter, remover the retaining screws. Remove lower cover in back of the refrigerator, Remove 1 screw securing the valve, remove cover where tubes enter the refrigerator. Take off tubes from valve (be sure to note what is inlet and outlet) and feed back into refrigerator. Be sure to save the putty when the new one is installed.

Fridge and freezer were not keeping proper temp (freezer would get too cold, fridge too warm), as the cooling coils were icing over and needed manual defrosting; it was not going thru the automatic defrost cycle. Changed out the defrost heating element, thermostat, and two temp sensors, none of that worked. It was this part (main board) that was the culprit. Eight wire harnesses to undo and re-hook, one was hard to pull out but it came out. Read and follow the anti-static instructions. To make sure, I grounded my hand with a copper bracelet that was grounded with a copper wire to the metal chassis of the fridge. I also drew out a rough sketch of the connections and numbered them all with a black fine tipped felt marker before undoing them. This finally fixed the problem.

I made my wife fix it.

Installing the part repaired the fridge and freezer immediately.