GSE25GGPECWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

First:
Remove all shelf’s and drawers from fridge inside that were on the way of the water tank
Second:
Pull the fridge from the wall
Turn off the water supply:
Unplugged the power supply
Third:
Remove the cardboard cover at bottom of the fridge on the back for better access to the water pipes
From the front remove the toe kick for better access at the water pipes
Disconnected the water pipe at the front left side, use a rag or paper towel to hold the water that may drip ( bigger pipe)
Remove the covers on the top of the water tank inside the fridge
Disconnected the water pipe at the back left side ( smaller pipe)
Unscrew the water tank (two screws)
Pull the water tank out with the water pipes attached
Fourth:
Install the new water tank assembly , make sure the pipes goes on the hole at the right side and reaches the from and back
Connect pipes until the line that shows on the pipes
Screw back the new water tank
Put the protections back on the top
Plug the fridge and open the water supply to make sure there is no water leaks
The water is ready to be use

I located the light switch at the bottom of the area where the door closes. I just popped it out with a small screwdriver and installed the new switch. A 2 wire connecter and small clip is all there is to it.

Put the new one in--simple!

Changing out solenoid was very easy, but you don't have to remove trim ring and it didn't fix my problem. Turns out a relay fell out of its holder in the piece you have after removing the 4 screws per the video.

Went exactly by the video. Perfect job, you send the installation video with the part. You watch the video before or during, goof proof, took longer to disassemble than to replace the part.

I watched the video online and it said there were three sensors in the refrigerator, two in the freezer and one in the refrigerator. I only ordered one sensor and was going to try the one in the refrigerator first. He said the upper one in the freezer is the most difficult, but is usually the problem. So, I replaced the upper sensor and tried restarting the unit. Everything went well and it fixed the problem.

Installing the part repaired the fridge and freezer immediately.

Simply removing parts from the old frame and installing them on the new frame and putting everything back in the refrigerator to include the glass.

my freezer quit freezing, it would freeze for one day, thaw the next, so I went online, found PARTS SELECT, LOOKED UP MY MODEL #, come to find out it needed three parts to keep my freezer to freeze, first part was a thermistor a small PART took me longer to remove all the covers, and shelving, PULLED THE OLD OUT, CUT THE WIERS TO SIZE, AND REINSTALLED, IT WELL! THAT WASN'T ENOUGH THE FREEZER STILL DIDN'T FREEZE IT THOUT IT WAS A COOL WORMING OVEN, HAD TO INSTALL THE THERMISTOR I, SO I DID, TEN MIN, NOW I THOUGHT THAT WAS IT BECAUSE IT STAYED FROZEN FOR A WEAK, HAVE YOU EVER EATEN SOUPY ICE CREAM? SO BACK TO PARTS SELECT, THIS TIME I BOUGHT ONE MORE PT, THE RUN CAPACITOR, FIVE MIN, THAT/S ALL IT TOOK TO INSTALL. I DID NOT KNOW AT THE TIME YOU NEED THE THREE OF THEM TO RUN THE FREEZER ONE TO KEEP THE TEMP., ONE TO KEEP THE FAN RUNNING THE WAY IT SHOULD, AND THE THIRD TO MAKE SURE THE OTHER TWO KEEP RUNNING. NOW I CAN SET IT AT 4- 5 AND. FREEZE.

replacement part was not identical to the original. Mounting screw sockets did not exist on replacement part. I still used the new part but it is held in place by gravity (no screws). New part works but must be treated gently or will break like the original or fall out of place. Part diagrams online were not adequately clear. It would have been good if photos existed of the replacement from assorted angles, and I would have seen the lack of mounting screw sockets.

FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS OF YOUR VIDEO

After inspection of the new door recess assembly, I realized that I could use sidecutters (electronic assembly type) and 'clip' off the inward lock tabs of the old recess assembly and disengage it from the crank door arm without any further disassembly of the refrigerator door. It was easy to 'unhitch' the tang from the crank arm and wiggle it out through the external opening of the ice/water dispenser compartment. I reversed the process and inserted the new assembly through the external opening of the compartment. The new door recess assembly snapped into place on the crank arm and fit tightly against the ice chute opening, correcting the issue caused by aging distortion of the old rubber seal cup portion of the door recess assembly.

We opened the box, unpacked the drawer, washed and dried it, installed it! No muss, no fuss!

Fridge and freezer were not keeping proper temp (freezer would get too cold, fridge too warm), as the cooling coils were icing over and needed manual defrosting; it was not going thru the automatic defrost cycle. Changed out the defrost heating element, thermostat, and two temp sensors, none of that worked. It was this part (main board) that was the culprit. Eight wire harnesses to undo and re-hook, one was hard to pull out but it came out. Read and follow the anti-static instructions. To make sure, I grounded my hand with a copper bracelet that was grounded with a copper wire to the metal chassis of the fridge. I also drew out a rough sketch of the connections and numbered them all with a black fine tipped felt marker before undoing them. This finally fixed the problem.

I used a mirror to locate the two small plastic tabs located on the underside of the ice dispenser light. I used a small flat blade screwdirver to push the plastic tabs forward to release the ice/water selector unit. I read about someone that did not see the tabs and ended up removing the inside of the freezer door, a two hour task! The ice and water control unit then slides out. remove the four rusty screws holding the dispensert and ice chute, the selenoid isthen easy to see.
Just replace the solenoid if your are having problems, I tried to lube it but to now avail. There is some rust in there so good time to clean up and put new screws in. Be care when removing the plastic lock tab on the circut board it breaks easely. If it does no big deal just make sure the connection is pushed in all the way. test your handy work before buttoning up. The solenoid comes with a new plunger so don't worry about cleaning the old one. The screws do not come with.