CSB48WP2NKS1 General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

I replaced the thermostat, temperature sensor, and the run capacitor. . . Refrigerator still not cooling. I checked the start relay and measured the input terminals on the compressor for the correct resistance. . . Everything measured correctly. In a last ditch effort before calling for service, I pulled the main board, inspected it and saw the problem right away. One leg on the compression capacitor had desoldered itself. Got out my soldering iron and applied a good amount of solder to that point. Put everything back together and turn it on. . . Problem fixed. The compressor kicked on right away and started cooling the refrigerator.

Removed rer cover, unplugged starter assembly from side of compressor and replaced unit with a new one. Plugged fridge in and it works good.

replace sensor in refriger.

Remove the shelves then remove the back by removing the two screws at the top of the panel. Locate the temperature sensor on top of the coil. Cut the wires and replace with the new one. Use wire nuts and electrical tape to reconnect the wires.

The problem began when freezer thawed and could not keep food frozen. Initially, I thought the issue was the defrost heater (because I had seen similar symptoms previously and resolved the issue with a new defrost heater)and I replaced that part with a spare that I had puchased previously. The issue was still unresolved and I noticed the evaporator fan was not running in the freezer because it would not turn on when I closed the door. I checked to make sure I could hear the compressor working (and it was)and concluded that the evaporator fan motor was not running. I ordered the part and found a YouTube DIY video on how to replace it. While I was at work, my fiancee took it upon herself to watch the installation video and install the new evaporator fan motor and all is well.

Very limited working space in this model. Must remove grill and disconnect elect connector on motor. One additiional tool suggested: Extendable rod with magnet on end because you will most likely drop something. First, remove two screws holding motor to metal strap. Tool must be inserted between blades of fan in order to get to the screws and this is the hard part. Fan and motor are removed as one assy and this takes some manuvering. Might have to remove front screw on metal strap to gain more room. I did not attempt to remove fan shroud. My fan was attached to the motor shaft with a metal clip. Spray a good lubricant such as PB Blaster on the shaft, wait a few minutes and press it or tap it out gently. Save misc parts on old motor for reassembly. Your set up may be different so check out everything before starting.

I ordered 3 temperature Sensors Part#PS304103 and viewed the video. Got there, opened the frig. and it looked totally different and no place in any part of this frig. that took these sensors as viewed on the video. Totally baffled why these parts were listed for this frig. there was no place in this frig that would access for these parts. Serial # was HR443071.Maybe this model is out of date for these parts. Trying to find someone who can repair it. Any ideas???Purchased this GE in 2008. Model #is GSS25WSTFSS Thanks, for your help. JIM

followed you online video and it was easy and simple repair only took about an hour frig is back quiet and working fine thanks also parts come fast

it was easy the only thing was i had to cut old harness to remove 2 wires that went to coil that had to go back in the new harness other then that a peice of cake.

i followed a video that was on your site, the video couldn't have been easier to follow it was step by step and very easy to follow, i replaced the evaporator fan motor and everything is working fine, i did notice that the evaporator coil was frozen pretty bad when i removed the back freezer panel i am going to check it again in a couple of weeks to make sure i don't have a defrosting problem as of now everything is fine i am hoping it was just the bad fan motor causing the coil to freeze up because of no air movement over the coil

My refrigerator was making a high pitched kind of howling noise. The PartSelect symptom that was closest was “unusual noise” and when I clicked that it said the evaporator fan motor fixes the symptom 32% of the time. Since my freezer fan speed sounded like it was constantly changing I went ahead and bought one which PartSelect delivered promptly. The installation video was great and although my freezer was not identical to the one in the video, the video was still very helpful. The only thing it didn’t say was how to tell if my freezer motor was the one with the thermistor although I suspect that they all are and that PartSelect is simply trying to save us money by showing us how to splice in a motor without a thermistor. Anyway, since I would have had to disassemble the freezer before buying the part to find out for sure, I just bought the one without the thermistor. This just meant I had to splice the new motor in, just like in the video. I think I would have preferred buying the motor with the thermistor even though it was more expensive. In the end my problem is solved so I’m happy. This is the third time that I’ve had to repair this GE refrigerator and PartSelect has been a valuable resource each time.

Condenser fan motor was running slow. This was not a problem included in your list of possible problems. I thought that maybe the capacitor was bad but have no way to check it. So I ordered one. when I received it, I installed it. That was not the problem. So I ordered a fan motor and installed it. That was not the problem. So finally I ordered a control board and installed it. That solved the problem. So maybe you should put "cond.fan motor runs slow" in your list of possible faults and what causes that problem. Capacitor was easy to install, simply remove the cover plate, flip off retaining wire, unplug the capacitor and replace. Fan motor was a bit more difficult. It must be removed from mount after fan scroll is removed. Remove one screw that holds scroll, bend the top down and remove. Then pull hard on fan blade to remove it. It must be installed on new motor. Two screws in frame mount can be removed with some effort if you have a 1/4" drive ratchet with a Phillips screwdriver bit. Then pull frame open and install new motor. Push fan blade on new motor shaft hard. Replacing control board was easy. I used a pair of long nose pliers with 90 degree bend to get mounting pins closed to pull board off.

Replaced all the sensors in both the feezer and refrigerator.Even though it colder now it still is not cold enough.Freezer won't freeze items but is cold and refrigerator still not real cold

1. Removed and tested defrost heater, tests good. 2. Reinstalled defrost heater. 3. Removed and tested defrost over-temperature sensor, tests good. 4. Reinstalled over-temperature sensor using soldering iron, dielectric silicone grease, and heat-shrink tubing. 5. Removed the control printed circuit board and checked for blown fuse's, fuse's are all good. 6. Removed the defrost relay from the printed circuit board using soldering iron, bench tested the relay, it is good. 7. Soldered defrost relay back onto the circuit board, and reinstalled control board. 8. Removed and bench tested evaporator thermistor, the resistance is out of specification, ordered new thermister. 9. Installed new thermistor using soldering iron, dielectric silicone grease, and heat-shrink tubing. 10. Re-assembled refrigerator. 11. Installed temperature monitoring and recording instrumentation for 72 hour test. The defrost cycle is running correctly with a defrost termination temperature of around 90 deg-f. The defrost cycle ran twice while running the 72 hour test. 11. Removed test instrumentation and Put the unit back into service, The thermistor was the culprit. I bought the right part on the first shot, nice.

Had to remove all the covers and fans to expose the condenser, which was difficult as the parts were frozen to it. The styrofoam covering the condenser made it almost impossible to defrost it. Therefore, I ripped the styrofoam off to expose the condenser. Was not really difficult to fix the styrofoam cover using metal tape. Replaced temperature sensor in aluminum block, and used butyl sealant to secure. Had to also re-install parts of ice-ball kit that were not well covered. Lots of parts to keep track of, but anyone could do it.