GSS23GYPECFS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

I located the light switch at the bottom of the area where the door closes. I just popped it out with a small screwdriver and installed the new switch. A 2 wire connecter and small clip is all there is to it.

I pulled the bulb out to see if it was the bulb, no! I took the switch out, of course with the refer unplugged, and jummped out the wires and the light came on. Ordered my switch and put it in in 10 seconds and then there was light! Thanks again for showing me the light!

Tim in NJ

I got the model # off the fridge, ordered the part online. The part was fairly cheap and was at my house 2 days after I ordered it. It was the exact part and I installed it in about 15 minutes and everyting worked out fine and easy and cheap, under $15 total to fix the issue. All I needed to do was use a flathead screwdriver to "pop" out the old switch, remove the 2 wires off the wire connection points, put the wires on the new switch and push it back into place. easy. Great place to get exact parts and fast shipping.

replacement part was not identical to the original. Mounting screw sockets did not exist on replacement part. I still used the new part but it is held in place by gravity (no screws). New part works but must be treated gently or will break like the original or fall out of place. Part diagrams online were not adequately clear. It would have been good if photos existed of the replacement from assorted angles, and I would have seen the lack of mounting screw sockets.

Changing out solenoid was very easy, but you don't have to remove trim ring and it didn't fix my problem. Turns out a relay fell out of its holder in the piece you have after removing the 4 screws per the video.

After inspection of the new door recess assembly, I realized that I could use sidecutters (electronic assembly type) and 'clip' off the inward lock tabs of the old recess assembly and disengage it from the crank door arm without any further disassembly of the refrigerator door. It was easy to 'unhitch' the tang from the crank arm and wiggle it out through the external opening of the ice/water dispenser compartment. I reversed the process and inserted the new assembly through the external opening of the compartment. The new door recess assembly snapped into place on the crank arm and fit tightly against the ice chute opening, correcting the issue caused by aging distortion of the old rubber seal cup portion of the door recess assembly.

We opened the box, unpacked the drawer, washed and dried it, installed it! No muss, no fuss!

Fridge and freezer were not keeping proper temp (freezer would get too cold, fridge too warm), as the cooling coils were icing over and needed manual defrosting; it was not going thru the automatic defrost cycle. Changed out the defrost heating element, thermostat, and two temp sensors, none of that worked. It was this part (main board) that was the culprit. Eight wire harnesses to undo and re-hook, one was hard to pull out but it came out. Read and follow the anti-static instructions. To make sure, I grounded my hand with a copper bracelet that was grounded with a copper wire to the metal chassis of the fridge. I also drew out a rough sketch of the connections and numbered them all with a black fine tipped felt marker before undoing them. This finally fixed the problem.

I watched the video online and it said there were three sensors in the refrigerator, two in the freezer and one in the refrigerator. I only ordered one sensor and was going to try the one in the refrigerator first. He said the upper one in the freezer is the most difficult, but is usually the problem. So, I replaced the upper sensor and tried restarting the unit. Everything went well and it fixed the problem.

Went exactly by the video. Perfect job, you send the installation video with the part. You watch the video before or during, goof proof, took longer to disassemble than to replace the part.

Simply removing parts from the old frame and installing them on the new frame and putting everything back in the refrigerator to include the glass.

my freezer quit freezing, it would freeze for one day, thaw the next, so I went online, found PARTS SELECT, LOOKED UP MY MODEL #, come to find out it needed three parts to keep my freezer to freeze, first part was a thermistor a small PART took me longer to remove all the covers, and shelving, PULLED THE OLD OUT, CUT THE WIERS TO SIZE, AND REINSTALLED, IT WELL! THAT WASN'T ENOUGH THE FREEZER STILL DIDN'T FREEZE IT THOUT IT WAS A COOL WORMING OVEN, HAD TO INSTALL THE THERMISTOR I, SO I DID, TEN MIN, NOW I THOUGHT THAT WAS IT BECAUSE IT STAYED FROZEN FOR A WEAK, HAVE YOU EVER EATEN SOUPY ICE CREAM? SO BACK TO PARTS SELECT, THIS TIME I BOUGHT ONE MORE PT, THE RUN CAPACITOR, FIVE MIN, THAT/S ALL IT TOOK TO INSTALL. I DID NOT KNOW AT THE TIME YOU NEED THE THREE OF THEM TO RUN THE FREEZER ONE TO KEEP THE TEMP., ONE TO KEEP THE FAN RUNNING THE WAY IT SHOULD, AND THE THIRD TO MAKE SURE THE OTHER TWO KEEP RUNNING. NOW I CAN SET IT AT 4- 5 AND. FREEZE.

I made my wife fix it.

Installing the part repaired the fridge and freezer immediately.

Replaced flapper valve per website instructions. GE factory technician took two weeks to get here, charged over $100 for the call and told us we needed a new refrigerator door at a cost of over $500 to fix the problem. We sent him packing. After visiting the PartSelect website, the $5.88 PartSelect flapper valve fixed the problem. Amazing.