GTS22KCPCRWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Defrost cycle staying on too long causing ice to melt, refreeze and seizing up ice maker. Replaced temp sensor and defrost thermostat just to be sure. Fixed the problem.

Took out shelf, unscrewed old track, screwed on new track. Only thing is not a standard flat or Phillips screw head so if you don't have a star head bit, you are out of luck.

First I unplugged the refrigerator. I removed the cardboard from the back and unhooked the inlet water line with a wrench and the water line to the ice maker, which was a quick connect. I unplugged the wire harness and removed the valve, then installed the new valve, plugged in the wire harness and hooked up the water lines. I turned on the water line and plugged in the refrigerator. The ice maker works great.

layed fridge face first on a chair removed cover with flat head screwdriver unplugged part replaced with new part replaced cover returned to upright and plugged in

I took the pan out, replaced the bar with the new part - slide pan RH - and I was back in business. It couldn't have been easier.

Unplugged the refrigerator first....then on the inside of the fridge, I popped the temp sensor cover off (upper LH side) and exposed the old sensor. I snipped off the old sensor about 3" down from the end and connected the new sensor (which I trimmed down to about 3" long) with some heat shrink wire nuts/connectors. Let the fridge run for a day or so and confirmed the problem was solved! Oh yeah, there was no way to tell the 2 wires apart (power vs. ground) on the sensor. However there was a manufacturer's stamp on the wires. So note the orientation of the text and mark one of the wires with a sharpie on both the old and new sensor before trimming. This will give you a reference for which wires to connect when adding the new sensor to the old wires.

removed back panel from freezer. located thermostat removed and replaced thermostat put panel and all baskets back into freezer and plugged fridge back in. Works perfect problem solved

pull out the slide pan lh and replace for the part

Only problem we had was when we removed back wall on freezer the couls were totally iced up. After waiting for that to defrost. (3 HOURS) repair went fine. Was kind of hard to get to the part being its a side by side but happy with results

With my hands and tools. It was real easy. Now just waiting to see it that was the problem.

Unplug the refrigerator and remove frozen food, shelving, light and back panel inside the freezer section to expose the cooling coils. The coils were completely iced over. Using a wet dry vacuum to discharge the air toward the coils quickly melted the ice. The trouble shooting section on your website described my problem and I bought both items which were the most common problem. Using the video(s) e-mailed to me when purchasing the parts provided great information regarding details for the repair. After replacing both parts the refrigerator is working great having spent just under $25.00.

the parts I ordered did not fix the problem the problem was with repairman did not follow the instruction and cut jumper wire on main control board

I looked up appliance on internet,diagram only showed the inlet valve and ice maker in schematic.I ck'd to see if water was getting to valve(it was)but wasn't getting to ice maker,thus I replaced the valve and it solved the problem.

I was intimidated by this repair(as I am with most repairs), because there were 2 possible problems. But being able to purchase both parts for $30 (including shipping) made it worth a try. Thanks to the instructional videos that were sent, the repair was much easier than I anticipated. For me, the hardest part was fitting my shoulders in the narrow freezer. Now the appliance works like a charm. This would have been a $150-$200 repair had I called a company to do it.

I replace defroste thermostat :i defrost al the ice