GZS22DMJWFES General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Went exactly by the video. Perfect job, you send the installation video with the part. You watch the video before or during, goof proof, took longer to disassemble than to replace the part.

Followed the instructions in the operator's manual to remove the door. Popped off cover of top hinge. Unscrewed the two screws holding pin down with socket set. Took off door. Unscrewed broken door stop with TORX socket. Replaced new door stop and reversed the process to replace the door. Very simple repair.

my freezer quit freezing, it would freeze for one day, thaw the next, so I went online, found PARTS SELECT, LOOKED UP MY MODEL #, come to find out it needed three parts to keep my freezer to freeze, first part was a thermistor a small PART took me longer to remove all the covers, and shelving, PULLED THE OLD OUT, CUT THE WIERS TO SIZE, AND REINSTALLED, IT WELL! THAT WASN'T ENOUGH THE FREEZER STILL DIDN'T FREEZE IT THOUT IT WAS A COOL WORMING OVEN, HAD TO INSTALL THE THERMISTOR I, SO I DID, TEN MIN, NOW I THOUGHT THAT WAS IT BECAUSE IT STAYED FROZEN FOR A WEAK, HAVE YOU EVER EATEN SOUPY ICE CREAM? SO BACK TO PARTS SELECT, THIS TIME I BOUGHT ONE MORE PT, THE RUN CAPACITOR, FIVE MIN, THAT/S ALL IT TOOK TO INSTALL. I DID NOT KNOW AT THE TIME YOU NEED THE THREE OF THEM TO RUN THE FREEZER ONE TO KEEP THE TEMP., ONE TO KEEP THE FAN RUNNING THE WAY IT SHOULD, AND THE THIRD TO MAKE SURE THE OTHER TWO KEEP RUNNING. NOW I CAN SET IT AT 4- 5 AND. FREEZE.

Ordered gasket. Laid out gasket near sunlit window untangled and flat on carpet for 24 hours to insure it was pilable and correct shape. Removed the old gasket manually easily without any tools and cleaned the door's seal groove with a paper towel slightly soaked with Simply Green. Installed new gasket starting at the upper corners then inserting upper edge by tilting the gasket toward the inside of the door with my fingers. Then installed the lower corners along with the bottom edge. Proceeded installing the side edge working from the set corners inserting the gasket's inner tongue into the door groove with my fingers again tilting the gasket inside the door. Once the gasket was installed, I closed the door and guided my fingers along the gasket to insure the magnetic edge formed a firm seal. This is wear the DIY videos suggested applying petroleum jelly but I did not need it since the gasket was pliable enough. Overall, the effort took 15 minutes because I think laying out the gasket for 24 hours allowed it to settle into its desired form..

It was so much easier than I thought. First we used a hair dryer to loosen everything up. Just pulled off the old on (with our hands) and put the new one on. Then went around the edges and wiggled it into place. There are plastic ridges that if fits into, so it’s important to make sure every part is sealed.

Installing the part repaired the fridge and freezer immediately.

After inspection of the new door recess assembly, I realized that I could use sidecutters (electronic assembly type) and 'clip' off the inward lock tabs of the old recess assembly and disengage it from the crank door arm without any further disassembly of the refrigerator door. It was easy to 'unhitch' the tang from the crank arm and wiggle it out through the external opening of the ice/water dispenser compartment. I reversed the process and inserted the new assembly through the external opening of the compartment. The new door recess assembly snapped into place on the crank arm and fit tightly against the ice chute opening, correcting the issue caused by aging distortion of the old rubber seal cup portion of the door recess assembly.

I made my wife fix it.

FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS OF YOUR VIDEO

I watched the video online and it said there were three sensors in the refrigerator, two in the freezer and one in the refrigerator. I only ordered one sensor and was going to try the one in the refrigerator first. He said the upper one in the freezer is the most difficult, but is usually the problem. So, I replaced the upper sensor and tried restarting the unit. Everything went well and it fixed the problem.

Fridge and freezer were not keeping proper temp (freezer would get too cold, fridge too warm), as the cooling coils were icing over and needed manual defrosting; it was not going thru the automatic defrost cycle. Changed out the defrost heating element, thermostat, and two temp sensors, none of that worked. It was this part (main board) that was the culprit. Eight wire harnesses to undo and re-hook, one was hard to pull out but it came out. Read and follow the anti-static instructions. To make sure, I grounded my hand with a copper bracelet that was grounded with a copper wire to the metal chassis of the fridge. I also drew out a rough sketch of the connections and numbered them all with a black fine tipped felt marker before undoing them. This finally fixed the problem.

I thought this was my problem as this part causes 90% of the no water issue. However, replacing this part did not fix my problem. I suggest that you test the valve first by disconnecting the water feed from the filter and running the line into a bucket. Once disconnected press the water on the freezer door and see if water comes out.
Other than that, this part is easy to install. Take off the plastic in front of the filter, remover the retaining screws. Remove lower cover in back of the refrigerator, Remove 1 screw securing the valve, remove cover where tubes enter the refrigerator. Take off tubes from valve (be sure to note what is inlet and outlet) and feed back into refrigerator. Be sure to save the putty when the new one is installed.

I watched the video a couple of times and followed the instructions exactly and the repair was very simple. This repair took me a bit more time than I thought it would just because I followed the steps methodically.

But the video was perfect to guide me through the procedure to replace this part. One of the longest parts was removing the shelving and food storage bins, cleaning them, drying them and then putting them back in after the tank was installed.

First, turn off power - since I did not want to pull the refrigerator out on my wood floor I tripped the circuit breaker to that circuit and opened door to make sure interior light was off (ensuring power was off). This unit has a bottom freezer, I took out all shelves, ice maker and all parts in the way of accessing back of interior of freezer section. Removed back plastic section by removing one screw in middle top of back panel and prying it out. This was a bit difficult as it was in there a bit tight but once the plastic warmed up it pulled out ok. This revealed the compressor section and temp sensor that was attached to the copper coils with of all things - a zip tie! In pictures of this that I looked at on various web sites the sensor was on a metal bracket attached to the coil so it made me wonder if tf the factory took a shortcut? I cut the old sensor wire, stripped the two wires 1/2", and connected them to the new sensor wire with butt connectors, I put some silicone into the ends of the butt connectors to prevent moisture from entering into connectors and wrapped the connection in black electrical tape. I then "attached" the sensor to the coil using a zip tie, put the plastic back piece back on, inserted everything I took out and put power back to refrigerator. It's been 3 days and temp of refrigerator is stable, ice maker not clogging up, and compressor not running all the time! So far so good.

Let me start by saying, I usually hire something like this out but figured I would give it a try. The install was fairly straight forward, however it would’ve been nice if the instructions would have been more useful. Instructing me to remove one screw to release the auger and solenoid enclosure wouldve been nice. There were 3 other screws that I didn’t need to remove and they were the ones holding the auger in place, which made assembling that much more difficult. Once to enclosure was removed, and the solenoid was exposed, it was a seemless process. I would however, recommend paying attention to or taking a picture of the connections on the solenoid. I was lucky to remember or got lucky. Regardless, I was able to complete the project successfully. If I had to do it again, I believe it can be done in 30 minutes or less.