GBE21DGKTRWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Installing the part repaired the fridge and freezer immediately.

First, turn off power - since I did not want to pull the refrigerator out on my wood floor I tripped the circuit breaker to that circuit and opened door to make sure interior light was off (ensuring power was off). This unit has a bottom freezer, I took out all shelves, ice maker and all parts in the way of accessing back of interior of freezer section. Removed back plastic section by removing one screw in middle top of back panel and prying it out. This was a bit difficult as it was in there a bit tight but once the plastic warmed up it pulled out ok. This revealed the compressor section and temp sensor that was attached to the copper coils with of all things - a zip tie! In pictures of this that I looked at on various web sites the sensor was on a metal bracket attached to the coil so it made me wonder if tf the factory took a shortcut? I cut the old sensor wire, stripped the two wires 1/2", and connected them to the new sensor wire with butt connectors, I put some silicone into the ends of the butt connectors to prevent moisture from entering into connectors and wrapped the connection in black electrical tape. I then "attached" the sensor to the coil using a zip tie, put the plastic back piece back on, inserted everything I took out and put power back to refrigerator. It's been 3 days and temp of refrigerator is stable, ice maker not clogging up, and compressor not running all the time! So far so good.

The handle was already broken. Wish I would have checked the mating clip surface of the handle. But, after getting all set up saw this problem, and ordered a handle. Taking off and installing is simple. Tap the freezer handle end to the left using a soft mallet on the right end. I suspect a hammer would work, but without protecting the handle could bend it or at least scratch the paint. I suppose a folded rag and a hammer may work. Anyway, once off, replacing the clips on the door is a Phillips head screwdriver to unscrew and replace the door clips. Then, carefully tapped the handle from the left end to slide the mating piece in the handle back on and tap tightly. There were many YouTubes on the thing since it seems to me to be a very poor design. But maybe we are too hard on the handle???

Replaced Temperature Sensor and now it is getting cold.

Removed ice bucket, and unplugged ice maker. Removed light cover. Removed ice maker. Pulled fan blades straight up and removed. Pushed new blades on to motor shaft. Fairly easy .

On the internet forum I read that if the control board needs to be changed , do the same for the Run Capacitor/relay.
The Ge profile refrigerator was 15 years old. First I disconnect the power cord,
I removed the control board at the back of the fridge, replaced it with a new one and did the same for the run capacitor.
Plugged the power cord back and it works fine. GE repair service did not want to come to do it. DIY is fine.

Totally followed the instructions of the video that came with the sensor. Unplugged the the fridge, defrosted the freezer. Cut off the main sensor that usually is the one that goes out. Installed the the new sensor with new wire terminals, crimped them and covered with electrical tape. Fridge works like a charm. Partsselect is excellent. Saved me a few hundred dollars versus having a GE Tech come and do it.

Took cover off, pushed blade on, and replaced cover

Repair was made simply and quickly by removing broken parts and replacing with new. No problems

Unplugged the unit took out valve and water line put new valve and water line back just the way it was in 45 min had ice cubes being made no leaks

Googled the model number of refrigerator with symptoms of "refrigerator wont run". Parts select web site appeared on my screen, opened Parts Select website, Partselect said probable cause of my frige symptom was that the run capacitor usually burns out 51% of the time. They were correct with the diagnosis 100%. I ordered the run capacitor for $23.00, installed it in 10 minutes, refrigerator runs good as new. Thank you for saving me cost of service call. I probably saved $200 or more. I will use Partselect again with my next problem. THANK YOU,

Temp. Sensor was under an egg shaped cover on the left side wall in the refrigerator. Remove the cover, cut the two wires to the old sensor and remove it. Connect the new sensor to the two wires using butt connectors. Replace cover and done.

My son replaced both temperature sensors and the fridge works great now!!! Like brand new again!!!!

Condenser fan motor was running slow. This was not a problem included in your list of possible problems. I thought that maybe the capacitor was bad but have no way to check it. So I ordered one. when I received it, I installed it. That was not the problem. So I ordered a fan motor and installed it. That was not the problem. So finally I ordered a control board and installed it. That solved the problem. So maybe you should put "cond.fan motor runs slow" in your list of possible faults and what causes that problem. Capacitor was easy to install, simply remove the cover plate, flip off retaining wire, unplug the capacitor and replace. Fan motor was a bit more difficult. It must be removed from mount after fan scroll is removed. Remove one screw that holds scroll, bend the top down and remove. Then pull hard on fan blade to remove it. It must be installed on new motor. Two screws in frame mount can be removed with some effort if you have a 1/4" drive ratchet with a Phillips screwdriver bit. Then pull frame open and install new motor. Push fan blade on new motor shaft hard. Replacing control board was easy. I used a pair of long nose pliers with 90 degree bend to get mounting pins closed to pull board off.

Replaced all the sensors in both the feezer and refrigerator.Even though it colder now it still is not cold enough.Freezer won't freeze items but is cold and refrigerator still not real cold