TBX25PRYCRAA General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

First i removed everything from the bottom shelf, removed the glass, then removed the entire bracket assembly. Then removed the front metal strip to expose the front mounting screw, then removed the rear screw. Installed the new part and reversed the procedure.

Removed the 2 drawers and then the glass shelf.
Positioned the drawer slid and tightened to rear screw and the front screw.

Replaced the shelf and the 2 deawers.

What's the big deal? Any 78 year old woman can do it.

After inspection of the new door recess assembly, I realized that I could use sidecutters (electronic assembly type) and 'clip' off the inward lock tabs of the old recess assembly and disengage it from the crank door arm without any further disassembly of the refrigerator door. It was easy to 'unhitch' the tang from the crank arm and wiggle it out through the external opening of the ice/water dispenser compartment. I reversed the process and inserted the new assembly through the external opening of the compartment. The new door recess assembly snapped into place on the crank arm and fit tightly against the ice chute opening, correcting the issue caused by aging distortion of the old rubber seal cup portion of the door recess assembly.

replaced lights in refrigirator and freezer

I loosened the compression nut on the valve with my fingers and pulled the water line free from the valve. On the other end, I just pulled it from the hose clamp. Installation in reverse. Force the water line into the fitting on top, Slide the old nut over the line on the bottom. Screw the nut onto the valve. Reach inside the freezer and turn on the ice maker. Done. Before replacing the cardboard grill, you should vacuum the coils on the bottom, front and back. If practical, push it outside and blow it out with an air compressor or a leaf blower.

Replaced flapper valve per website instructions. GE factory technician took two weeks to get here, charged over $100 for the call and told us we needed a new refrigerator door at a cost of over $500 to fix the problem. We sent him packing. After visiting the PartSelect website, the $5.88 PartSelect flapper valve fixed the problem. Amazing.

The only difficult part was not knowing which parts had to be removed to gain access to the flapper to replace it. It appeared as if the frame around the control panel would have to be removed as well as the door handle; we tried but were not able to remove the frame. It turned out that the panel just popped out with the frame in place. Once we had access to the flapper, it was easy to replace it. The repair fixed the problem.

Replacing the new part wasn't hard, just very time consuming and frustrating. I had to remove two-thirds of the shelving of refrigerator as broken drawer slide was on the bottom and I had to have room to remove old and replace new. Of course, then I had to CLEAN all the drawers and shelving before replacing them and then, because they were fresh and clean, I had to remove the other third of shelving and wash and replace it. So, it was an hour-long or more time. I love your business, and had no idea I could get so many parts for old applicance and replace them myself, and I am a 70-year-old woman! This was the 2nd time to use your site and I will return to it again when needed. Thanks for prompt and reliable service and a site that makes it easy for a neophyte like me to find the broken part ! Keep up the good work.

Opened, discovered not flapper but more complicated

We only needed the rear plastic cylindrical helix. After installing it, there was a squeal of metal on metal due to insufficient clearance between the rear moving blade and the Ice dispenser plate.

Refrigerator Ice Maker 7/16” (or ½” hole, stainless steel) washer just behind #334 Rear Moving dispenser Blade PS292310 to give clearance so it doesn’t hit #345 / PS292441 Ice Dispenser Plate.

This was my first time at doing this so it took longer than someone experienced. But, it worked!

I followed the directions on the site for the center slide replacement. I had actually called a local store and had him order the first part. It took several days and then I started searching online and found this site.Then I ordered the second part on line and to my surprise it arrived the next day. I was fortunate enough to have lived only about 70 miles from the distributer.Following the directions I found here is how I attempted the initial repair. With the vegetable bins out fo the bottom, I removed the plate covering the front frame by gently prying it off. Then I removed the two screws to losen the bar and lifted out the glass shelf. I didn't have much difficulty removing the frame since the front piece support for the slide rail that fit into the frame was already broken. I also had to loosen the screws on the back rail. I removed the entire frame and then replaced the side rail reinserting it into the end caps. I replaced the back screws and then the front ones .I replaced the glass shelf and then the cover cap for the shelf.
The only problem I encountered was that I couldn't seem to get the back screws really tight and I don't know why.

Took out both draws and glass shelf, removed the entire lower shelf housing. I snapped off the front rail aluminum face to expose the screw. Unscrewed both screws and removed the rail and then just reversed the procedure to put new rail on. It was the most cost effective way of doing it. All the pieces are there on the GE website as long as you know the model number. You will save a lot of money by doing it yourself.

Replaced flapper. Followed the video. The lamp caused the removable plastic bracket (which supports the control panel and the ice chute) to fuse with the plastic frame in the door. Eventually broke the fused plastic, removed the bracket, and filed the rough broken plastic before reassembly.

Part attaches to metal plate near crushing fingers which attaches to ice holding bin. Remove about 6 screws total on each side of plate. You must disassemble the auger & other parts so you can reassemble it in the proper order. Not many parts but i always take pics to cut down on time. New part is at the other end of the auger and acts as the holde of the auger shaft. Picture a crankshaft with a bearing on each end so the auger rotates between new part and the other end of auger shaft. That's it.

Followed the online video. Unplugged refrigerator, removed trim piece, lifted control board cover, removed 4 screws retaining circuit control board and removed the 3 connectors from the control board. Located flapper and removed by using small flat tip to take tension off flapper connectors. Helper held flash light to illuminate flapper connectors. Reversed procedure. New flapper seals well and cured problems. Circuit board was a bit different than one in video, but still had the 3 connectors. Marked each connector with grease pencil at top edge to ensure correct reconnection. Should note how wires are threaded around circuit board to ensure they are tucked back in correctly in reassembly. Remove trim piece carefully. I broke 2 of the 8 plastic pins that hold trim on. May be due to age of unit as they were brittle. 6 pins still hold trim piece flush.