PSH25MSTBSV General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

There were no fastening hardware. The plastic stripper just snaps in place. I had to be patient and could not get it out until I put upward pressure on the stripper.

This is the second or third time this cup has broken. Maybe we use more crushed ice than the average family, but you would think this part could be more durable. Anyway, I digress. This is about the repair. Four screws removed around bottom of tray, one screw removed for some bar that mechanically opens a door to allow ice to fall out of the tray, and two butter knives used to release tabs around the screw components... and we were done.

Raised side of fridge enough to get 1/4" ratchet with 1/4" socket under roller wheel assy. Removed three hex-head screws to separate damaged wheel assy from fridge frame. From panel below fridge compartment, backed-out stripped leveling screw. Mounted new roller assy and then threaded in new leveling screw from front. Lowered fridge and adjusted leveling screw for proper height. Suggest putting a 2x4 under fridge for safety when hands are under unit.

Remove back panel on bottom of fridge to access compressor area. Remove screws from water solenoid and water valve and push to the side so the side of the compressor can be accessed. Then locate the inverter box. You will find a Phillips head screw on the bottom of the inverter. This is the only screw that hold the inverter in place. Remove the screw and tilt the inverter box forward away from the compressor, then lift the box out of the the holder. You may have to wiggle it a bit to get it out. Remove the plug that attaches to the compressor and then with the power on check your voltage coming to the compressor. It should read 120 volt. If it doesn’t your inverter is bad. Remove the other plug on the inverter box and pull the box out.
Reinstall the unit in reverse order. Use the appropriate jumper to plug into the wire connection going to box and then plug it into the connection off the fridge.
Once everything is reinstalled and before you put the back panel on plug your refrigerator back in and you should be able to hear the compressor working or feel the top of it to make sure. If it’s working you are good and can reinstall the back panel.
It will take 4-5 hours to come back to temp if it’s been off for any length of time.

Your instructions were "spot on"! Pried out broken switch with screwdriver-reinstalled new switch. Very easy! Ordered on line on a Wednesday new part arrived on following Saturday-Great service and will definately use again. Highly recommend PartSelect!

Removed tray, threw out ice , removed 3 screws used 2 screw drivers to seperate part & re installed

Followed the video showing how it was done. Took me longer to go to the basement and shut the water off and on, than it did to replace the valve

Shut off water supply. Unplugged refrigerator. Removed cover. (6 screws -- nutdriver will come in handy). Removed screw securing water valve to frame (again the nutdriver). Unplugged red and white power connectors to solenoids. Using channel locks, loosened nut holding main water supply to valve and removed. Depressed compression fittings to valve and pulled out plastic water lines that supply water dispenser and ice maker. Reconnected main water supply to new part. Pushed both water lines into respective fittings of new part. Reconnected power supply to solenoids. Attached new part to frame with screw. Replaced back cover. Turned water supply back on. Plugged refrig. back in. Problem solved! Savings = $300!

Removed the ice maker from the freezer. Unscrewed the outer cover/base of the ice maker. Unscrewed the long lever that opens the ice chute. This freed up the feeder coil enough to pull it out enough to replace the cup drive. Once I replaced the cup drive, I laid it back down into the ice maker bin, reattached all the screws and it worked! The old cup drive had a tine broken off which would not allow the feeder coil to turn. It seems like a weak part and I anticipate I may have to replace it again in a few years.

pulled out refer. found leak at corner lower back, pulled off lower cover. found valve for icemaker leaking. looked in owners/inst guide, pulled up on computer, identified part, called, order overnight part. recieved part & installed, repair complete & successful.

replaced with new connector and it worked great. also replaced the water filter and that was super easy!

Replacing the water filter with the new style water filter was no problem...twist to the left, drop the old filter, line up arrows on housing and new filter, twist to the right and done.

Ice maker was always crusing ice. There is a spring deflector wound around the actuating rod towards the back of the ice dispenser. Pulled the ice dispenser out, slid the damaged spring off, and slid the new spring deflector on making sure to engage the actuator rod to restore it's action. Easy fix.

We actually followed the instructions of the video for the installation of the dual inlet valve and it was incredibly easy to perform. The fridge works perfect again!

I removed the ice from the tray, took out the four screws from the tray, pulled up the metal spiral took out the old drive cup, replaced with the new one, replaced the screws and put the tray back in the freezer. A piece of cake. Thanks for your prompt service and the reviews on how to replace.

I tried to quite the noisey evap motor with special liquid motor grease from Radio Shack. It did not work, so I ordered the evap motor. My freezer motor was wired slightly different than the motor I received. The replacement motor had a male plug attached to the four wires, the original motor was different, so I cut the wires and spliced them into the original freezer wires (colors were the same). Remounted motor. Works great, and no more groaning motor
Peter