PFE29PSDSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Opened door, removed screw holding down metal plate that presses against interlock switch when door is closed. Removed plastic cover thingy that is over interlock switches. Removed the interlock switch by pressing the plastic lock thingy away from switch. Pulled the wires off each end of the interlock switch. Removed new interlock switch from plastic bag and reversed above procedure. Done, shut door and the dishwasher works.

No self defrost. Measured heater coil with ohm meter which was OK (not open). Ordered 2 temp sensors (there are 2 in freezer, 2 in fresh food sections). The original and the new all meaured ~150 ohms. Replaced one by one. This did not fix problem. Ordered defrost thermostat. Original measured ~150 ohms - new one was ~100 ohms. Unpluged refridgerator. Removed coil panel (4 nut screws) in freezer and light cover (1 small phillips screw). Locate defrost thermostat clipped to top of coils (orange / pink wires). Cut wires and unclipped thermostat. Stripped insulation off of wires and reconnect using wire nuts. Clipped thermostat back to coils. Ran refridgerator without panel on coils to see if coils frosted up again and listend for fans/compressor to stop ( took hours). Opened freezer and viewed glow of defrost heater. Problem resolved.

Took the old one off by pulling and pushed on new one.Easiest replacement ever

I removed the door and "flipped" it to open right to left. Rather than remove the existing door latch I added the purchased latch on the right side to enable opening the door right to left or left to right.

Poped out with screwdriver the old swithch and unplugged the two wires. Plugged in the wires to the new swithch and pushed it back in the hole where the old switch was before.

The first thing I did for this repair was call a repair guy to come out and fix it since I didn't want to deal with it. After the initial shock of the $617 estimate to replace the Main control board, I scraped myself off of the floor and proceeded to look up how much a new board would cost me. The part was $155.04 at this site Much cheaper than the $417.00 estimate for parts I received from the repair guy. I could see from the drawings that the control board was on the back of the unit with its own access panel. It took me about 2 min the remove all the screws holding the panel on and another 8 min to remove the connectors from the old board and plug them into the new board......and another 2 minutes to screw the panel back on. The labor estimate I got was $200.00. Which comes out to about $800 an hour for the repair guy to do this job. One thing to note: Be sure to ground your self when you are touching the new board. Static electricity from your body can short out the micro electronics on the board

Pulled out the remnants of the old latch out with the pliers and then popped the new one in...less than 2 minutes. Oh, and the part was delivered in less than 2 days. Great job, Partselect !

Replaced cycle thermostat.

I had lost the provided bypass filter plug. I decided to replace it with your part.

Pull out old seals install new seals. Use hair dryer to smoothing out gasket and apply a small amount of Vaseline on the seal. Seal edges are still wrinkled but seal good.

When I went home at Christmas, I saw that my Mom had been using a small bench to keep her dryer door shut. I wrote the make / model of the dryer down and found your website. I ordered the part, and my sister snapped it into place. My mom was so happy to have her dryer door stay shut again!

So I replaced a burnt out defrost heater; replaced the thermostat for good measure and STILL the freezer compartment was freezing up. WHY didn't I look more closely at the ice making system sooner!!?? Thought about it for a while and decided that it had to be that the solenoid in the water valve was NOT shutting off water flow to ice maker (overflowing the icemaker and running over & down interior of freezer compartment making an icberg).

Took off about 4-5 backcover screws with one size nut driver. Moved to a size larger driver to remove 1 screw holding on the water valve. And what some people don't realize is that you can push in the connectors (push them down) and THEN pull the water lines out as long as you're careful and someone hasn't already tugged on the waterlines with some force. You don't have to cut the lines off at the valve. Put the water lines in the new valve and put one screw back in it; then 4-5 backcover screws and you're done!!! At most 15 minutes...that is if you want to clean the condensor unit located behind the backcover (on the newer models within the last 4-6 years).

EASY!!! Do it yourself and save a BUNCH of money. If you're getting a flooded freezer compartment or icebergs created in there then check whenever you hear the icemaker drawing in water and see if water is running down the interior.....problem solved!

We couldn't get the other connector loose from one end of the tubing so he said just cut it and so we did and attached the connector. I now have water again in my fridge and took the sticky note down "don't use the water" as it had leaked for a year...... Thanks!

Your website was very easy to use and the product shipped very promptly. It was great experience. Thanks!

The easiest way we found to install the speed sensor was to detach the motor from the washer by removing 2 hex bolts...one on the left and one on the right. This was much easier than other suggestions of removing the impeller itself and working in such a tight space. when placing the sensor on, it mounts to the back side of the motor in designated bracket area; the green face of the sensor must point downward and towards the impeller.
when remounting the motor, a second set of hands is helpful to reapply the belt and install the bolts.