GUAP240EM2WW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

While the switch did last for 9 years, the design is poor due to the failure mode. The failure should be to fail off or not able to turn on the lights which would be inconvenient but would not warm the refrigerator contents. Arcing at the contacts eventually caused the switch to "weld" closed. It is not obvious that this is occurring so it took some time to recognize why the temp inside the ref was high while the freezer was OK. Replacing the switch was easy once it was recognized as the problem. All that was required to replace the switch was to remove the screws holding a fiber cover and then pulling off the aluminum cap which covered the switches. Unplug the switch an squeeze the keeper on the switch to release it and pull down. Pop the replacement switch in place and plug the wires harness back in. All in all it took much less time to replace than it has to write this up. T Pope

It has been my experience that these motors sometimes die when the refrigerator is overfilled and motor strains to keep refrigerator cold. And this motor is used in several models of refrigerators. That said, sometimes the hook-up is slightly different between other units. The available video is good, but like I said, circumstances will be slightly different between various models.

After cleaning out freezer (plug disconnected first), start to remove outer plastic covers. If you want to keep track of the different steps, you can take pictures with your cellphone. And if there are any connecting wire attachments you think you might not remember, again, you can take a picture, or label with tape (colored tape, or by writing on the tape). And for keeping track of the different-size screws, I place them in a muffin tin, keeping an order of left to right and top to bottom in the tin. When removing Styrofoam blocks in bottom center, make sure you remove any remaining ice underneath in the hole so refrigerator can "breathe". Freezer air is moved below to refrigerator compartment, so a blocked vent hole will strain refrigerator as it tries to maintain its temperature setting and can be the cause of your failed motor.

After replacing motor onto bracket with grommets and blade, don't completely tighten. Position plastic cover with hole opening over motor and blade assembly. Twirl motor blade to see if there is any interference with cover. If not, take away cover and tighten motor on bracket. If there is any rubbing, adjust motor/blade assembly accordingly before tightening in place. Putting everything back together is in reverse order.

Two tabs hold the switch in place. I used a plastic wedge to remove the switch. Removed and replaced the two connectors held in by friction. Painless.

The existing light switch was very hard to remove. I ended up having to grab it with a pair of pliers and pull it out. Once it was out, it was very easy to put in the replacement and it seems to be working fine.

Not only was finding the part rediculously easy for a person who has never done this type of thing...the repair was a sinch!! I will always return to this company for help with home equipment repairs. I saved so much money doing it this way. :) thanks guys!

Just pop the old one out, careful not to lose the wiring inside the ref wall & popped the new one in.

After turning the power off to the range, it was as simple as removing the screws for the broiler itself and the bracket and plugging in the new element. Yes, it was that easy.

1. Disconnected 120 VAC power supply from refrigerator. 2. Removed 2 philip screws from horizonal panel containing the thermostat. (Panel is in refrigerator section). 3. Removed plug module from panel which freed the panel which allowed me to remove panel to do repair. 4. Removed wires from thermostat (cold control), and mechanically removed thermostat from panel and installed new cold control (thermostat). Replaced wires on control. 5. Replaced panel and reinstalled 2 philips screws. 6. time to repair about 15 minutes.

After I bought what I thought I needed for the repair. I asked a friend to come over and look at it. He changed the
the light socket and put the same light bulb in and it works great. I am returning the light switch but decided to keep the light bulb.

Getting on the internet was so easy. This was really very simple. Thank you for making what I thought would be a big ordeal into something very simple.

Paulette Johnson

I typed replacement fridge parts in google. Parts select.com came up. I found my fridge model # on the fridge and typed it in. A similar model # came up and I looked at the parts diagram. I determined what the piece was. I checked a couple other similar fridge model #'s to see if the part was the same. It was. Parts select made it so easy! I ordered the part on Monday in the afternoon... used regular shipping and had it in my hands by 9 am on Wednesday. I opened my fridge took out the collapsed bottom shelf (courtesy of my forever climbing 3 year old!) Installed the old glass and drawers in the new tray and Voila! as good as new! This couldn't of been a better experience from beginning to end,

I spent more time turning off the breaker and opening the door than replacing the element.

Nut driver to remove the 2 screws, NN Pliers to remove the leads, remove the element and reverse the process.

Hope this isn't copyrighted..... so easy, a caveman could do it!

easy as 1.2.3 remove and replace before even thinking. just to let you know i also do this for a living but it is one of the most difficult thing when you have to stop and fix your own

Followed the instructions online, very simple, quick and painless.

The broiler uses two male slip-on connectors that attach to two wires with female connectors in the stove. When removing the broiler element, I discovered that one of the two wires was burned in half specifically where the wire crimped to the female connector. This is abnormal and raised some concern. However, I deduced that the terminal crimp from the factory must have been defective and the wire nicked or cut in order to produce enough heat at that point for the wire to burn and fail. The female crimp terminal is a special, solid right angle design that I was unable to locate locally even at an electrical wholesale distributor. A straight terminal connector was used and crimped after stripping a new section of the wire. Heat will melt solder. You must use a high quality crimp connector and tool. The connector was then very carefully angled down slightly to maintain a safe distance from the back shield of the stove to the wire when in place. The new broiler works fine. There was likely nothing wrong with the old one. Just a wiring issue.

Just placed the new shelf in-doesn't get any easier than that! lol