GBS22KBRBWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Rodney from Dallas, TX
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10942
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
Relay on motherboard was clicking-Quit cooling
Followed the partselect video on how to replace motherboard and the video described the exact replacement procedure.
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- Customer:
- Catherine from SEATTLE, WA
- Parts Used:
- 40A15
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
The light inside the oven had burned out
0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.
No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.
No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.
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- Customer:
- Mark from ROSEMOUNT, MN
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10025
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Refrigerator not defrosting, ice tray clogging up in ice tray, refrigerator making loud humming noise, and compressed running all the time.
First, turn off power - since I did not want to pull the refrigerator out on my wood floor I tripped the circuit breaker to that circuit and opened door to make sure interior light was off (ensuring power was off). This unit has a bottom freezer, I took out all shelves, ice maker and all parts in the way of accessing back of interior of freezer section. Removed back plastic section by removing one screw in middle top of back panel and prying it out. This was a bit difficult as it was in there a bit tight but once the plastic warmed up it pulled out ok. This revealed the compressor section and temp sensor that was attached to the copper coils with of all things - a zip tie! In pictures of this that I looked at on various web sites the sensor was on a metal bracket attached to the coil so it made me wonder if tf the factory took a shortcut? I cut the old sensor wire, stripped the two wires 1/2", and connected them to the new sensor wire with butt connectors, I put some silicone into the ends of the butt connectors to prevent moisture from entering into connectors and wrapped the connection in black electrical tape. I then "attached" the sensor to the coil using a zip tie, put the plastic back piece back on, inserted everything I took out and put power back to refrigerator. It's been 3 days and temp of refrigerator is stable, ice maker not clogging up, and compressor not running all the time! So far so good.
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- Customer:
- Terry from Cheyenne, WY
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10942
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Periodic and intermittent "clicking," during which the lights on the temp control unit would go out. When clicking stopped and lights returned, temp control unit was not accepting adjustments in temp
Had friend assist in pulling fridge out from it's area so that I could access back. Unplugged unit. For the bottom freezer units (mine) the compartment containing the main control board is middle of the fridge and on the left. Took off the protective metal plate and then followed the video demonstrating the repair. One other discrepancy between the video and the instructions that came with the new main control board, is that the instructions suggested locating and cutting some other green wire to the compressor unit. I chose not to do that, as the unit was otherwise working fine as is prior to my main control board going south.
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- Customer:
- Dan from COLUMBIA, SC
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10025
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Socket set
Refrigerator not getting cold
Replaced Temperature Sensor and now it is getting cold.
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- Customer:
- Kent from Bartlesville, OK
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10025
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
Freezer working but fridge not cooling.
Totally followed the instructions of the video that came with the sensor. Unplugged the the fridge, defrosted the freezer. Cut off the main sensor that usually is the one that goes out. Installed the the new sensor with new wire terminals, crimped them and covered with electrical tape. Fridge works like a charm. Partsselect is excellent. Saved me a few hundred dollars versus having a GE Tech come and do it.
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- Customer:
- Raul from Columbia, MD
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10942
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Control panel on the front door became was dead. Replace the Main control board was de solution suggested by a Technician.
I followed instructions in your video. at the beggining I hesitated because the original card had two fewer ports than the new one. but after a call to a Partselect representative I confirm that I had the right card. after that it was a matter of connet wires to the ports. 1 week later my refrigerator is running smooth. Thaks a to Partselect I have saved a bunch of money.
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- Customer:
- jaime from SYLMAR, CA
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10942
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
No Cooling on either freezer or refrigerator
Everything seemed to be working right, but no cooling, so I tried turning on and off the switch that turns the light on 5 times within two seconds, refrigerator did not shot. so I removed the main board and I notice a short had taken place on one of the relay legs. I ordered the main board and replaced it. The main board is on the back of the freezer covered with a sheet metal panel about 8"x8" and is secured with hex sheet metal screws. Everything is working now. Please make sure to unplug the unit from power before removing the main board.
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- Customer:
- Cecilia from NATALIA, TX
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10942
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Freezer would not freeze and fridge would not cool after power outages
I used a volt/ohm meter and checked for power to compressor and start run relays, diagnosis- was remove and replace motherboard
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- Customer:
- Carl from BELLVILLE, TX
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10942
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
Unit was dead
Removed and replaced control board
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- Customer:
- QUOC-LOC from LYNN HAVEN, FL
- Parts Used:
- WR55X24064
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
The control board generated clicking noise. Temperature display wrong values.
On the internet forum I read that if the control board needs to be changed , do the same for the Run Capacitor/relay.
The Ge profile refrigerator was 15 years old. First I disconnect the power cord,
I removed the control board at the back of the fridge, replaced it with a new one and did the same for the run capacitor.
Plugged the power cord back and it works fine. GE repair service did not want to come to do it. DIY is fine.
The Ge profile refrigerator was 15 years old. First I disconnect the power cord,
I removed the control board at the back of the fridge, replaced it with a new one and did the same for the run capacitor.
Plugged the power cord back and it works fine. GE repair service did not want to come to do it. DIY is fine.
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- Customer:
- Johnnie from KANSAS CITY, MO
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10942
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
The Ground wires wasn't in same location on board
i had to improvise And relocate ground wire to get a proper ground .. That's all , the video was a GREAT HELP...
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- Customer:
- Roscoe G from ROCHESTER, NY
- Parts Used:
- 40A15
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Light burnt out.
Turned the wire protector to the side. Turned out the old bulb and replaced it with the new. Turned the wire protector back in place and I'm like new.
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- Customer:
- Joe from Stevensville, MD
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10942
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Continuous clicking noise, compressor was not running
Removed the old control board at the rear of the refigerator, installed the replacement board.
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- Customer:
- robert from melrose, IA
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10942
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
deep freeze defrosting and frig. getting warm shortly after stoped cooling completley
Received main board in less than two days. back of frig. small panel removed 3 screws, removed cover exposing main board with needle plires squeesed 4 plastic tips to release board unpluged conectors, reinstaled new board, worked perfict. Thank you for your helpfull web site. Bob.
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