GSS25YBSBWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions
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- Customer:
- John from Belvidere, NC
- Parts Used:
- WR74X10271
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
grill was broken
removed and replaced grill, really easy.
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- Customer:
- randall from coopersville, MI
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10025
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
refriderator not cooling consistetly
1 opened door 2. pryed cover off from cieling 3.cut and stripped wires on 4. sodered wires from old wires to new sensor. 5 insulated conection.6 put cover back on. This did not fix the problem it was the control moduel.
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- Customer:
- John from Holly Springs, NC
- Parts Used:
- WR50X10068
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Fridge getting warer and warmer
remove back panel inside fridge freezer side, everything frosted, unplug and used a hair dryer
1. Took out defrost heater and the bottom and tested (per this site) tested OK.
2. Then looked at the defrost thermostat, it was swollen with the top coming off. so i new it was bad
3.clipped and stripped the 2 wires, spliced in the new one with wire nuts and sealed them with silicone. All better
1. Took out defrost heater and the bottom and tested (per this site) tested OK.
2. Then looked at the defrost thermostat, it was swollen with the top coming off. so i new it was bad
3.clipped and stripped the 2 wires, spliced in the new one with wire nuts and sealed them with silicone. All better
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- Customer:
- Pat from Pensacola, FL
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10942C
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
No ice or water at the despenser. Compressor would turn off when the dispenser lever was pushed. There was also a loud buzzer sound for a couple of weeks prior to the board failing.
Pulled out the fridge and unplugged electric cord. Took off the back lower right side panel. Unplugged all the connectors and removed the motherboard. Replaced the motherboard and reconnected connectors. Replaced the panel and plugged it in. Works great!
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- Customer:
- LEE from WILMINGTON, DE
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10942C
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers
clicking nose from mother board
pulled the board away from the 4 plastic pins, unplugged the wires and plugged them directly into the new noard, pushed board back onto the four plastic pins.......job completed in under 5 minutes. Fridge working fine now for over a week......no problems.
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- Customer:
- Lynn from Venice, FL
- Parts Used:
- WR71X10761
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
The clear insert on on of the shelves on the door brike
I was able to snap the new piece right in
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- Customer:
- Frederick from NAPLES, FL
- Parts Used:
- WR71X10973
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Not a problem at all.
I took out the old bins just as when you take them out to clean them. And then I replaced the bins with the new ones.
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- Customer:
- Lee from UPPR MARLBORO, MD
- Parts Used:
- WR14X10059
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
The rubber gasket had torn, and super glue only provided a temporary solution.
1. Emptied the crisper pan,
2. Removed it from the refrigerator,
3. Flipped it upside down,
4. Removed the old one by pulling it off,
5. Replaced it with the new OEM part. and
6. Reversed the process.
2. Removed it from the refrigerator,
3. Flipped it upside down,
4. Removed the old one by pulling it off,
5. Replaced it with the new OEM part. and
6. Reversed the process.
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- Customer:
- Robert from BREWSTER, MA
- Parts Used:
- WR71X10761
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Fridge shelf dropped on floor broke front shelf insert
Opened package and just snapped in front insert. Took longer to open package than it took to replace broken insert.
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- Customer:
- James from KNOXVILLE, TN
- Parts Used:
- WR23X31507
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Can of fruit fell from shelf and broke the switch cover.
Removed broken switch with plastic scraper (press tension latch on bottom), moved two wire terminals to the new switch and pressed the new switch into the hole.
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- Customer:
- Aurelio from MAYS LANDING, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10942C
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
clickking sounds
Unplugged unit.. Removed control board cover.. Removed all plugs from control board then removed board its self.. Replaced in reverse order.. Unit is working as new..
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- Customer:
- Cecilia from NATALIA, TX
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10942C
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Freezer would not freeze and fridge would not cool after power outages
I used a volt/ohm meter and checked for power to compressor and start run relays, diagnosis- was remove and replace motherboard
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- Customer:
- doyle from kingston, WA
- Parts Used:
- WR50X10068
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Socket set
freezer was freezing up.
took the back off and defrosted with a hairdryer. disconected the part pulled the part out cut the wires. put the other part on and instaled it. put it back together and it seems to be working just fine. thank you
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- Customer:
- H E from St Simons Island, GA
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10942C
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Refrigerator/Freezer Warm & Condenser Fan Not Running
The control board and access panel are on the back of the refrigerator, so you will need to roll/slide the refrigerator away from the wall to gain access to the panel. Be careful not kink the water line if you have an ice maker connection.
Unplug the power cord from power outlet on the wall.
On this model the control board is located behind a rectangular panel that is about 8" x 10". The panel is about 3 feet above the floor on the left side (as viewed looking at the back of the refrigerator).
Using a Phillips (cross point) screwdriver, remove the screws and the access panel cover. Look closely at the control circuit board and you will see 4 small white plastic protrusions sticking through the board -- these are the plastic posts that hold the board in place. There is a small tab that locks the board to the plastic mounting post. Use your needle nose pliers (or other small pliers) to compress the small tab on the post; and while squeezing, pull on the control board until it releases from the post/clip. Repeat this for each of the four posts and the board will now be free from the mounts.
Look at the plugs that connect the wires to the board and note the orientation of each plug. Each plug is a different size, so they will only fit into the socket of the correct size. On my refrigerator, there is one plug that is not connected to the board and is hanging loose, so don't get confused when connecting plugs to the new board - this one remains unconnected.
Firmly pull each plug from its socket on the board -- try not to pull by the wires. If you have a stubborn plug, grab it with your pliers and pull it out. There is a green ground wire connected by a screw into the refrigerator cabinet. Remove this screw and ground wire. (Note: on some models the green ground wire is fastened with a screw that holds the cover in place - just be sure to reconnect the wire when replacing the cover).
Insert all of the plugs into the new board -- be sure they are seated firmly. Reinstall the ground wire. Place the board over the plastic posts and push until the tab locks the board in place. Replace the cover.
On the sheet that comes with the refrigerator they instruct you to remove the lower panel on the refrigerator that covers the compressor motor compartment. They instruct you to look at the power cord connection to the compressor and to locate a green wire from a capacitor. If your power cord does not have a capacitor exactly like the one pictured, there is no need to proceed on this step. Replace the lower panel. If it does have a capacitor as illustrated, follow those instructions and then replace the panel.
Now plug in the power cord to the wall power outlet. Before pushing the refrigerator back into place you want to make sure it is operating properly. To make sure that there is no "Glitch" during start up, I suggest that you set the temperature control inside of the refrigerator to "OFF" and wait about 3 minutes. After 3 minutes, set the control to the desired temperature (about 37 Deg for Refrigerator and 0 Deg for the Freezer).
If the refrigerator is running, you are finished. Being careful not to kink the water line, push the refrigerator back into place.
Unplug the power cord from power outlet on the wall.
On this model the control board is located behind a rectangular panel that is about 8" x 10". The panel is about 3 feet above the floor on the left side (as viewed looking at the back of the refrigerator).
Using a Phillips (cross point) screwdriver, remove the screws and the access panel cover. Look closely at the control circuit board and you will see 4 small white plastic protrusions sticking through the board -- these are the plastic posts that hold the board in place. There is a small tab that locks the board to the plastic mounting post. Use your needle nose pliers (or other small pliers) to compress the small tab on the post; and while squeezing, pull on the control board until it releases from the post/clip. Repeat this for each of the four posts and the board will now be free from the mounts.
Look at the plugs that connect the wires to the board and note the orientation of each plug. Each plug is a different size, so they will only fit into the socket of the correct size. On my refrigerator, there is one plug that is not connected to the board and is hanging loose, so don't get confused when connecting plugs to the new board - this one remains unconnected.
Firmly pull each plug from its socket on the board -- try not to pull by the wires. If you have a stubborn plug, grab it with your pliers and pull it out. There is a green ground wire connected by a screw into the refrigerator cabinet. Remove this screw and ground wire. (Note: on some models the green ground wire is fastened with a screw that holds the cover in place - just be sure to reconnect the wire when replacing the cover).
Insert all of the plugs into the new board -- be sure they are seated firmly. Reinstall the ground wire. Place the board over the plastic posts and push until the tab locks the board in place. Replace the cover.
On the sheet that comes with the refrigerator they instruct you to remove the lower panel on the refrigerator that covers the compressor motor compartment. They instruct you to look at the power cord connection to the compressor and to locate a green wire from a capacitor. If your power cord does not have a capacitor exactly like the one pictured, there is no need to proceed on this step. Replace the lower panel. If it does have a capacitor as illustrated, follow those instructions and then replace the panel.
Now plug in the power cord to the wall power outlet. Before pushing the refrigerator back into place you want to make sure it is operating properly. To make sure that there is no "Glitch" during start up, I suggest that you set the temperature control inside of the refrigerator to "OFF" and wait about 3 minutes. After 3 minutes, set the control to the desired temperature (about 37 Deg for Refrigerator and 0 Deg for the Freezer).
If the refrigerator is running, you are finished. Being careful not to kink the water line, push the refrigerator back into place.
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- Customer:
- James from Akron, PA
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10942C
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Compressor Would not come on. Found the relay on the Main Board burned up. There was no electrical power to the compressor .
Ordered a new Main circuit Board. It arrived next day. Unplug the fridge to take away electrical power. Unscrewed the panel on the back of the fridge near the top. I then pulled the wire connectors off the circuit board. Gently pull the board off the plastic tabs. Push the new board onto the tabs. Reconnect the wire connectors. Screw the panel back on.
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