PDS22MBRBBB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions
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- Customer:
- charles from SCOTTSDALE, AZ
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10025
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Defrost not working coil iced up
Removed back wall cover over coil. Defrost all ice with a hair dryer. Cut white wires and replaced Temperature Sensor. It has been working for a week and no trouble at this time. If you have this system on your GE refrigerator do this before replacing the motherboard. I must admit I was thinking that was the trouble. Motherboard was replaced after 5 years old now 5 years later my thinking is this a 5 year problem. So try the Temperature Sensor.
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- Customer:
- Rickey from DUMAS, AR
- Parts Used:
- WR55X24064
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
The lights were on inside however the the water/ice dispenser did not work and the fridge and freezer side was not cooling
Simply take off the back panel. Remove the old run capacitor which is attached to the compressor by a white part. It pulls right off. You will have to unplug two wires. I took a pic to ensure I plugged the wires back up the correct way. Then I attached the new capacitor to the white part and put on the sleeve that was included, plugged it back into the compressor and zip tied the excess part of the sleeve. Once done plug fridge back up (always unplug electric devices when doing maintenance) to check before replacing back panel. It may take a few minutes before it kicks on.
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- Customer:
- Dan from Ellicott City, MD
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10942C
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Refrigerator ran too much, condensor fan not running
Removed cover plate on rear of unit - 3 screws
Removed connectors and ground wire
Removed board (use needle-nose pliers to compress plastic mountig posts)
Replaced board, inserted connectors, attached ground wire, put cover on
Everything worked properly
Removed connectors and ground wire
Removed board (use needle-nose pliers to compress plastic mountig posts)
Replaced board, inserted connectors, attached ground wire, put cover on
Everything worked properly
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- Customer:
- David from Barrington, IL
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10942C
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Freezer never kept a consistant temperature. One night heard a clicking noice which was followed by the temperature display showing temps like -31. Researched to find other with the same issue and ordered the replacement board to repair.
I must admit - I thought I'd attempt to do this repair and end up calling a service guy to finish it. I'm not mechanically inclined AT ALL but thought I'd give it a shot after reading others experiences. I'm glad I did. The fix was easy, but there was initial anxiety while reading the instructions that came with the part - as they mentioned the possible need to cut some wires. Fortunately that was not necessary..... Removed three screws from the rear plate to expose the part needing to be replaced. Remove the fittings from the old board (needed plyers to do that - be gentle), take the old board out by using needle nose pliers to squeeze the white plastic tabs and pull the board free. Reconnect fittings to new board and you are done. Works better now than ever - obviously the old board had an issue that GE should have recalled, as many others had the same problem.
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- Customer:
- Philip from Los Alamos, NM
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10942C
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Cabinet very hot on sides, freezer not 0, running continuously.
Diagnosis of symptoms was condenser fan not running, due to faulty main board.
First: removed the cover over the main board, which was too hot to touch. Bad design flaw, no ventilation for the board, which I believe made it fail. We got another year of service with the cover removed.
Second: after reading people's experiences here, ordered the board and popped it in. (Note: needed a pliers to compress each of the 4 plastic studs holding the board in.) Works like a champ.
Third: did NOT replace the cover. At our altitude the air can't conduct enough heat to prevent cooking the board. Need to allow circulation.
First: removed the cover over the main board, which was too hot to touch. Bad design flaw, no ventilation for the board, which I believe made it fail. We got another year of service with the cover removed.
Second: after reading people's experiences here, ordered the board and popped it in. (Note: needed a pliers to compress each of the 4 plastic studs holding the board in.) Works like a champ.
Third: did NOT replace the cover. At our altitude the air can't conduct enough heat to prevent cooking the board. Need to allow circulation.
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- Customer:
- randall from coopersville, MI
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10025
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
refriderator not cooling consistetly
1 opened door 2. pryed cover off from cieling 3.cut and stripped wires on 4. sodered wires from old wires to new sensor. 5 insulated conection.6 put cover back on. This did not fix the problem it was the control moduel.
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- Customer:
- Pat from Pensacola, FL
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10942C
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
No ice or water at the despenser. Compressor would turn off when the dispenser lever was pushed. There was also a loud buzzer sound for a couple of weeks prior to the board failing.
Pulled out the fridge and unplugged electric cord. Took off the back lower right side panel. Unplugged all the connectors and removed the motherboard. Replaced the motherboard and reconnected connectors. Replaced the panel and plugged it in. Works great!
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- Customer:
- Terry from The Villages, FL
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10942C
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
Refridgerator was not cooling
First, I removed the cover plate from behind the fridge. Next, I carefully pulled the main board out (four little clips holding it in) and disconnected the plug in wires. I connected the wires to the new board, popped it back in place and replaced the cover. Very easy to do.
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- Customer:
- William from Wylie, TX
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10942C
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Not cooling, Defrost issues, whining loud noises
Unbolted the back cover, pulled out old board, replaced with new bored and powered back on. It is working great now.
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- Customer:
- Sharon from West Winfield, NY
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10942C
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
The fridge was making a clicking sound, and not cooling the food
The back panel was unscrewed, we read the directions with the circuit board and followed them. It was very easy to unplug the old faulty unit and plug in the new replacement part. It was done in 4 minutes flat. Very easy to do yourselves!
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- Customer:
- Rene from HEBER, CA
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10025
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers
condenser icing refrigerator warm freezer ok
follow the easy instructions replace 3 temperature sensors cut the wires and crimp them with new sensor and it works like new
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- Customer:
- Glenn from PORT JEFFERSON, NY
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10942C
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Ghostly Sounds From Fan Motor - Variable Speeds All Night - Motherboard Problem
Simple directions were provided. It took more to clean and vaccuum than the actual repair. Yes I replaced the motherboard in a referigerator. Just keep not of the connectors and were they came off from on the original board. Dont just rip them off because the new board has some different connections. So follow the directions and take your time if your not sure. But really it a cinch. No more whoooo sheeesh and howling noises from the referigerator. Thank goodness.
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- Customer:
- james from vista, CA
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10942C
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
Making an owl sound from the icemaker side
Simple; Removed the panel, unplugged the cable connections to the mother board with a rat nosed plier.
Then to remove board you must squeeze closed the 4 plastic retainer clips in each corner, or they can accidentally be pulled off with the board.
Removed the board, re-attached the new board on the clips, then the cable connectors, then the panel.
Plugged in the refrige and it has been silent ever since.
Follow the instructions and anyone can do it.
Then to remove board you must squeeze closed the 4 plastic retainer clips in each corner, or they can accidentally be pulled off with the board.
Removed the board, re-attached the new board on the clips, then the cable connectors, then the panel.
Plugged in the refrige and it has been silent ever since.
Follow the instructions and anyone can do it.
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- Customer:
- James from El Dorado, AR
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10942C
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Will not defrost
The replacement part went in quite easily and quickly. The instructions sent with the part was pretty self explanatory. I have also replaced the defroster element, the defrost thermostat and now the main control board. After having done all this the thing is still freezing up. After disassembling the whole freezer section I found yet another temperature sensor (Also known as Thermistor). I'll replace this part next and if it still freezes up you'll be able to find it sitting on the curb. Thrown enough money at this ten year old fridge and a new one will be in order. Thanks Parts Select for reasonably priced parts, the posts to help with the repair and the fast shipping.
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- Customer:
- Carl from BELLVILLE, TX
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10942C
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
Unit was dead
Removed and replaced control board
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