CYE22UP2MES1 General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

I went to a GE repair center to explain my problem, the service center reccomended that I have a techinician come out o look at it. $75.00 for the visit and what ever labor and materials wuld cost.

I went on line to see if there were others having this same problem and found that there were many with the same problem.

After reading some of the ways that people found out what was wrong ...it became a matter of three components, the timer, heater or thermostat.

I tried the most common component and the less expensive one first , the thermostat switch I installed it very easily snipping two wires and attaching the news using wire nuts I used the diagram on this website to pinpoint the component and there has not been a problem since.

I removed the old temperature sensor by cutting the wires. I attached the wires of the new sensor with wire nuts and mounted it in the same bracket.

went to your website and viewed exploded view to find the sensor( there are two I just picked one to replace for now), pried the cover off carfully and pulled out the sensor. I snipped the wire in the middle leaving plenty to work with. I shortened the wire on the new piece, spliced the wires together and with some 3M rubberized, tape wrapped them up, replaced the sensor back into the cover and snapped in place.

put fridge into test mode, failed One sensor. Took it out, Tested it, Ordered part also picked up splice kit from electric store spliced it truned on and good to go

Took panel off back of inside of freezer section, took off old sensor from the evaporator, spliced new sensor into the existing wires, waterproofed spliced connections, snapped sensor back onto evaporator, then put panel back on the inside of the freezer. Really, it took only 10 minutes to fix. Now refrigerator defrosts like it used to, and temps have settled in at specified temps.

Noticed the problem in November 2009. Replaced Hi Limit Sesor for Defrost thinking it was the freezor temperature sensor. Did not fix the problem. Replaced Motherboard. Did not fix the problem. Called Sears Repair. They mis-diagnosed the problem and told me it was the sealed system. I doubted them and sent them home. Replaced the correct freezer temperature sensor that connects to the motherboard. FIXED.
Removed a panel, cut two wires, soldered and insulated two wries, reinstalled panel.

No self defrost. Measured heater coil with ohm meter which was OK (not open). Ordered 2 temp sensors (there are 2 in freezer, 2 in fresh food sections). The original and the new all meaured ~150 ohms. Replaced one by one. This did not fix problem. Ordered defrost thermostat. Original measured ~150 ohms - new one was ~100 ohms. Unpluged refridgerator. Removed coil panel (4 nut screws) in freezer and light cover (1 small phillips screw). Locate defrost thermostat clipped to top of coils (orange / pink wires). Cut wires and unclipped thermostat. Stripped insulation off of wires and reconnect using wire nuts. Clipped thermostat back to coils. Ran refridgerator without panel on coils to see if coils frosted up again and listend for fans/compressor to stop ( took hours). Opened freezer and viewed glow of defrost heater. Problem resolved.

I replaced the three sensors, 2 in the freezer 1 in the refrigerator. This was rated as the most common problem. Did not fix the problem. I then checked the ohms on the new sensors then the old sensors they were all within .5 of each other. So I got smart and went down the list of causes on their list. I emailed partselect and asked what the parts should read. They replied with that information and it turned out to be the voltage converter on the compressor. I ordered the part on friday payed for overnight delivery and it arrived tuesday. This as you can imagine makes me angry. But the part was easy to install and my refrigerator started working right away. I would advise anyone with this problem to start at the top of the problem list use a multi meter check everything on the list and only replace part or parts that don't come up to standards. This will save time and money and hopefully fix the problem the first time as you are not switching out parts and hoping that it solves the problem.

Repair man thought it was the control board and an issue with a relay on the board. Purchased the new board but found out the board was fine, and it was the recirculating fan that would go out intermediately.

Tried ordering that part from Part Select since they have been great, but GE discontinued the part and their was not a replacement available. After much research, found the new replacement part number and ordered that, it went in quickly and for now seems to have solved the problem.

Literally turned off the water to the refrigerator, disconnected the lines from the back and took one screw loose from the inside of the unit. Slid out old filter connection and slid in the new one and did reverse process.

Received the wrong spring. It is larger in diameter and the legs are too long. I used pliers to modify the spring for a temporary fix. Emailed CS about the wrong part and have never received any response back?

Move the refrigerator away from the wall.
Disconnect the refrigerator.
Remove bottom drawer.
Remove two criisper drawers.
Remove crisper drawer slides, one bolt near the front of each slide.
Push slides off pin at back.
Remove bottom panel at the back of the refrigerator to access fan.
Remove fan, held with a couple of screws.
Remove rubber gasket from around old fan and put the gasket around new fan.
install new fan and bolt in place.
Replace lower panel at back at back of refrigerator.
Reinstall drawer slides, hook at back and bold at front
Reinstall drawers.
Reconnect refrigerator power.
Push refrigerator back in place and adjust feed to hold in place.

Unplug refrigerator or turn off circuit breaker.

Insert knife blade or other thin blade into joint at bottom of screen bezel (where there is a color change) and pry up slightly until top of bezel pops out. Probably need to do this in several places until the entire top edge is out slightly. Pull the top of bezel out slightly and lift up to remove.

Remove 4 1/4" hex head screws to loosen control panel. Pull control panel out from door and remove three wiring connectors. You can now completely remove panel from refrigerator door.

Use T15 Torx driver to remove 5 screws on main circuit board and 2 on the small attached board. Remove and save plastic insulator piece.

Install new boards and insulator piece using the Torx screws. Reconnect the three wiring connectors and remount the control panel using the hex head screws.

Reinstall the screen bezel by sliding the bottom in first. Align the tabs on the bezel with the mating slots in the lower panel. When bezel is all the way down push in the top edge to engage the retainer clips.

Plug in refrigerator or turn on circuit breaker. Control should now go through the startup sequence.

Replaced the 8 year old icemaker.
Turned off power.
Did not need to turnoff water supply.
Removed the 1/4" hex head screw from the wire connector cover.
Removed the wire cover taking care to be careful with the thermister
temperature sensor which slides into a square channel in the cover.
Disconnected both wire connectors.
Unscrewed the 5/16" hex screw at bottom of icemaker to unmount the old icemaker, lift the icemaker up 1/2" and out and discard.
Installed new icemaker in reverse order.

Received replacement part. There is a cover over the ice box latch. Pried it off with a screwdriver head. Took the broken latch off replaced new latch to cover and replaced on the door.