GIE18GTNDRBB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Water was leaking from under the GE dishwasher, but once we pulled it out, had apparently been going on for a little while. Turning the water off to the dishwasher made it stop, so it was happening even when the unit was not running, potentially indicating somewhere early in the path of the water to and into the machine.

Indeed, inspecting the water inlet vale showed a slow leak. Getting the replacement part was fine, and it fit the electrical, water inlet (existing 90-degree water inlet elbow), and water outlet connections just fine - but the original machine screws that held on the original water inlet valve did not work. It took a little research to figure out the new type of screw required, which was apparently a 10/16 Type AB, which seemed to be a less common type of sheet metal screw (with a point), as opposed to the original flat-ended machine screws. So, after ordering those separately (which were a bit expensive), it went together fine.

A note on the water inlet valve part just indicating the the threading on those parts has changed over time, so potentially ordering the screws to attach it might be worthwhile, would be good information to add about the water inlet valve.

Find a video on youtube. Remove 6 screws. Pull the Styrofoam part up before removing the panel. Unplug and Remove the fan assembly.
You will need a NUT DRIVER to take the bracket off the backing plate.
I ordered the red grommet and the red bumper. You need TWO of the red grommets if that is the problem. My freezer was about 8 years old, and the grommets were worn and compressed, the bumper was not. Replacing these parts DID NOT FIX the problem. I needed a new motor.
I probably disassembled and reassembled this stuff about 7 times before I got all the parts and tools. Each time I had to unload the freezer.

Followed the steps on the linked video. Absolutely accurate and easy to follow. Beware: Don't drop a screw down the opening after removing the styrofoam block.

followed instructions in the video. simple tools. pretty easy. Most people would have just bought another refrigerator, $50.00 was much better. Is working just like new.

Followed the on line instructions and found the repair to be very easy. Took longer to remove the food from the freezer than to switch out the fan motor.

First I unplugged the power. Then I removed the wire shelf, center plastic cover, flited the stryofoam piece out, removed the back panel. Then I disconnedted the fan connectors. Then I took the fan brackets off and removed the clamp holding the fan blades to the motor shaft. I then reversed the steps to complete the installation.

1. Watch the video.2.Place all screws in a central location that will not be hit, stepped on, fall on the floor, etc. 3. Be systematic. 4. Allow a full hour. 5. Watch the video.

Attaches to hooks

I have not yet done the repair. After watching this repair video two problems came to mind. First I only ordered one grommet not knowing that there were two (or more I don't yet know). The second problem is that this video must be for a fridge from like the 1940, but it looks NOTHING like mine from 2008. The manual shows a bazillion parts and frankly I'm just a wee bit afraid to get started, and I am generally very handy, buuuttttttttt I don't know about this one

First unplug freezer and empty contents, then remove the screws from the air deflector, carefully remove styrafoam air deflector block then remove back panel for easy access. Fan will be easy to switch out from there. I highly recommend the You Tube video which is where I got my basic instructions.

Remove ice maker and all of it's accessories in order to remove the panel covering the fan. Don't drop the screws!
Unscrew the lower fan bracket. You will see the lower red rubber grommet. Hold fan motor with one hand and push the fan off the shaft and into the compartment above. Then remove the round retainer thing below it by holding it and pulling down on the motor assembly. Install new grommet on upper part. and put it all together.
REMEMBER where the fan is on the shaft. It has about one inch of shaft placement. I put mine so that most of it was above the hole that the fan goes into and about 20 percent showing below the sheet metal.
Also check to see if your fan is damaged. Mine was not.
This refrigerator has been awesome! I have had many issues but have been able to fix all of them for the last 15 years!

This is the symptoms you have when your defroster with timer goes bad. Warm refrigerator, frozen freezer. The pants of the model of the refrigerator. There is some screws to be removed from the back panel to access to the heating coils. Make sure that the coils are defrosted, so can easy access to the heating element. You will have to unscrew hitting element out of the wall without breaking or bending the lines and gentle, remove any pens or connections on a side, and underneath to remove the heating coil harness it’s attached around very easy install putting back the same way, it should not even not experience person. It should not exceed more than half an hour. Common sense and a very important make sure all power has been disconnected before you start working.

Just replaced the glass, easy to install.

After removing 2 screws from freezer air duct and 2 screws and 2 self tapping screws from back panel, I removed all these, as well as the foam duct connector. Checked and verified 120 volts at the motor connector, indicating that the motor was bad. Ordered the motor, and 22 hours later, it arrived. 15 minutes later,and 6 screws reinstalled, it was up and running.

Replaced the glass shelf