XSS25GSHNCSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed broken switch with plastic scraper (press tension latch on bottom), moved two wire terminals to the new switch and pressed the new switch into the hole.

ordered replacement part with the understanding that tubing to the water valve could be easily removed. The tubes were carefully removed with some difficulty, and when the new tubes were inserted one leaked. The tube seat was not snug. Therefore a new water valve was purchased. The installation was successful within about 20 minutes. If I were to do the job again, both the water resevoir and valve would be ordered together.

remove the front plate. use screwdriver to pry the cover off from the bottom of the cover, remove the wiring from the front cover.remove the 4 screws and pull out the shute. remove three screws from the solonide and replace . very easy fix. save yourself $100.00 labor.

Simply take off the back panel. Remove the old run capacitor which is attached to the compressor by a white part. It pulls right off. You will have to unplug two wires. I took a pic to ensure I plugged the wires back up the correct way. Then I attached the new capacitor to the white part and put on the sleeve that was included, plugged it back into the compressor and zip tied the excess part of the sleeve. Once done plug fridge back up (always unplug electric devices when doing maintenance) to check before replacing back panel. It may take a few minutes before it kicks on.

Removed back wall cover over coil. Defrost all ice with a hair dryer. Cut white wires and replaced Temperature Sensor. It has been working for a week and no trouble at this time. If you have this system on your GE refrigerator do this before replacing the motherboard. I must admit I was thinking that was the trouble. Motherboard was replaced after 5 years old now 5 years later my thinking is this a 5 year problem. So try the Temperature Sensor.

Followed instruction video. Replaced water tank, flushed line from house water. Reconnected line and cycled until tank filled. I have ice and water now.

The icemaker arm disconnected from the metal frame. This caused the icemaker to cycle and the heater to come on and stay on until the plastic parts melted causing a mess and stink. This action melted the ice and then the water fell through the frozen items in the freezer and refreezed in the lower portion. OK, I remover the dead icemaker and tossed it away. I installed the new icemaker and the wiring harness didn't fit right (way to long). I retrieved the old icemaker and removed the wiring harness from it. I removerd the new ice maker and installed the old wiring harness to the new icemaker. I then installed the new icemaker, plugged it in and turned on the power. No water, I ordered the dual solenoid water valve, installed it with difficulty (another story) the turned on the power. I reinstalled the ice bin and found it didn't fit. The icemaker was to low and couldn't be adjusted, 1/4" higher would have been great. I shoved in the bin anyway, I was out of ice for my scotch, and it started making ice.

follow the easy instructions replace 3 temperature sensors cut the wires and crimp them with new sensor and it works like new

NOTE:You can still use your Ice Maker as the water tank is for water dispenser only-only leaked if you pushed on water dispenser;We put painters tape over water dispenser until we got our water tank (Part# PS783769);easy install see below ;NOTE - WATCH VIDEO ON HOW TO INSTALL -ALTHOUGH NOT THE SAME UNIT AS MINE THE PROCEDURES ARE SIMILAR - A MUST
a. Remove food from bottom 3 drawers in refrigerator side so you can remove the drawers to access Water Tank
b. Turn off water
c. Take cardboard off back of Frig (bottom of Frig)
d. Find tubing (short one) that goes to water tank & remove where it connects to the union:located Left side bottom of back of Frig - Push in white lip to remove tubing
e. Remove grate from front of Frig (on bottom) removing 2 screws one far left & one far R (will have to open doors)
f. Find long tubing from Water Tank left side under Freezer door and pull out where it connects to union so you can work on it with Freezer door closed - Disconnect tubing by pushing in on white ring on Union to release tubing.
g. Removed 3 bottom drawers Frig side
h. Removed plastic guard from over light (just pull up on both ends to remove (16 1/2 in long)
i. Remove plastic over top of water tank
j. Remove foam from over top of water tank (be careful not to break foam
k. Take out 2 screws holding water tank
l. Pull out Water Tank and Tubing noting which hole short & long tubing comes out of
m. Install new Water Tank by pushing tubing into holes; Short goes in right hole & Long in left hole
n. Attach Water Tank with two screws you removed, attach foam, plastic cover over Water Tank then plastic over light
o. Short tubing will come out toward back and long hose needs to be pushed under frig toward front freezer door.
p. IMPORTANT NOTE - REMOVE PLUGS FROM TUBING where it connects to Union - I had to undo this part because I didn't notice the plugs
q. Connect Tubing - Short to rear Union by pushing in on white collar on union and do the same with the front long tubing
r. Turn water back on
s. Test Water dispenser to make sure it working before re-installing cardboard on back & grate on front - this is when I found out I forgot to REMOVE THE PLUS FROM THE TUBING
t. Install cardboard on back & grate on front
u. Put in shelves & food back into Frig
v. Because it's quick no need to move food from top shelves

instalation was very easy - but the part was 3/4 inch to long and a 1/32 inch to wide.Trimmed it with the "faithfull"
Dremel and it works!The instalation part of the "job" was less then 10 min.

Replaced icemaker assembly. Only 3 Phillips screws to remove the old assembly. Pretty much an exact swap. Was easy to replace but the connecting cable on the new replacement assembly wasn't very easy to make fit. Had to force it into a location that would be out of the way and allow everything to operate properly. That connecting cable should be more flexible and adapt to the fridge a little more friendly.

First:
Remove all shelf’s and drawers from fridge inside that were on the way of the water tank
Second:
Pull the fridge from the wall
Turn off the water supply:
Unplugged the power supply
Third:
Remove the cardboard cover at bottom of the fridge on the back for better access to the water pipes
From the front remove the toe kick for better access at the water pipes
Disconnected the water pipe at the front left side, use a rag or paper towel to hold the water that may drip ( bigger pipe)
Remove the covers on the top of the water tank inside the fridge
Disconnected the water pipe at the back left side ( smaller pipe)
Unscrew the water tank (two screws)
Pull the water tank out with the water pipes attached
Fourth:
Install the new water tank assembly , make sure the pipes goes on the hole at the right side and reaches the from and back
Connect pipes until the line that shows on the pipes
Screw back the new water tank
Put the protections back on the top
Plug the fridge and open the water supply to make sure there is no water leaks
The water is ready to be use

My father called and asked me if I knew where he could get a new switch light for his refrigerator. I came across your web site and found the part right away. In less than 3 days the part came and my father put it on. He said it was easy and that it was great to have the part come to him instead of having to search all over town. Thanks so much for the fast, easy service.

took out heating element while ice was still on coils..replaced w/new one, thought it would go on to defrost right away ,but freezer had to run it's cycle . Then after about 4 hours all ice was gone and all went ok..back to normal and it is now set on #4 working fine .

Clear freezer items in the area of repair as light assembly is in the back of the freezer. Suggest removing shelving in the same area to provide more working space. Utliize a small flashlight to provide interior lighting. Use a stubby phillips screwdriver to remove fastener securing the light cover.
Cover snaps out to remove light board assembly. Gently pull to disconnect the electrical connection to the light board. Then pull the light board assembly from the mounting posts securing the light board. Be careful not to snap either posts or the light board.
To install the new light board, I found it easier to connect the electrical source first, then push the light board onto the plastic posts to secure the light board. There are holes in the light board to insure a secure fit. Reinstall the light cover and reinstall the mounting screw. All done in less than 5 minutes!