XSS23GSKNCSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

I pulled the bulb out to see if it was the bulb, no! I took the switch out, of course with the refer unplugged, and jummped out the wires and the light came on. Ordered my switch and put it in in 10 seconds and then there was light! Thanks again for showing me the light!

Tim in NJ

Really simple... broken light switch easily removed with flat edge screw driver. Once removed unplug and plug new one in and good to go.

I got the model # off the fridge, ordered the part online. The part was fairly cheap and was at my house 2 days after I ordered it. It was the exact part and I installed it in about 15 minutes and everyting worked out fine and easy and cheap, under $15 total to fix the issue. All I needed to do was use a flathead screwdriver to "pop" out the old switch, remove the 2 wires off the wire connection points, put the wires on the new switch and push it back into place. easy. Great place to get exact parts and fast shipping.

I located the light switch at the bottom of the area where the door closes. I just popped it out with a small screwdriver and installed the new switch. A 2 wire connecter and small clip is all there is to it.

Unplug refrigerator. Use nutdriver to take two srews out that were holding on the housing. Unplug electric plug and pull out motor and housing. Use hacksaw to cut thru auger holder. Motor will be free to take off,disconnect two wires. Use nutdriver to take out three srews holding motor. Take back cover off and put new motor in cover and reverse procedure. Used new auger wih new motor. Saved big bucks by during this job myself.

After inspection of the new door recess assembly, I realized that I could use sidecutters (electronic assembly type) and 'clip' off the inward lock tabs of the old recess assembly and disengage it from the crank door arm without any further disassembly of the refrigerator door. It was easy to 'unhitch' the tang from the crank arm and wiggle it out through the external opening of the ice/water dispenser compartment. I reversed the process and inserted the new assembly through the external opening of the compartment. The new door recess assembly snapped into place on the crank arm and fit tightly against the ice chute opening, correcting the issue caused by aging distortion of the old rubber seal cup portion of the door recess assembly.

Removed the back panel of the freezer to inspect. The coils were totally iced up. Proceeeded to defrost coils with a heat gun. I then removed the defrost element to insepct and meter reading showed as open (infinite resistance). I ordered a replacement element and it arrive 2 days later. Replace the element and everything worked OK except for the ice maker. It seem that moisture had frozen on the motor impeller for the auger drive motor and locked it up. I removed the drive assembly and defrosted the motor impeller to free it. Everthing now is working fine.
Your blow up drawings made this a very easy repair
Thanks

This is the third time the defrost heater has failed, the part was shipped prompt, and the replacement was upgraded to a dual coil. The repair was quick and more cost effective than having a repair guy come out .

Installing the part repaired the fridge and freezer immediately.

Determined that the defrost heater was bad (didn't test the thermostat or sensor) and attempted to replace it first.

Got the part in one day (super fast shipping).

1) Removed back panel on the inside of the freezer compartment using a nut driver.
2) Removed the ground wire clip from the metal panel
3) Used a screw driver to remove the two philips head screws that hold the heater assembly in place.
4) carefully pulled off the wires attached to the assembly.
5) attached the wires to the new heater
6)attached the new heater and screwed the new heater in place
7) attached the inside panel
8) fridge is now working great.

replacement part was not identical to the original. Mounting screw sockets did not exist on replacement part. I still used the new part but it is held in place by gravity (no screws). New part works but must be treated gently or will break like the original or fall out of place. Part diagrams online were not adequately clear. It would have been good if photos existed of the replacement from assorted angles, and I would have seen the lack of mounting screw sockets.

We opened the box, unpacked the drawer, washed and dried it, installed it! No muss, no fuss!

my freezer quit freezing, it would freeze for one day, thaw the next, so I went online, found PARTS SELECT, LOOKED UP MY MODEL #, come to find out it needed three parts to keep my freezer to freeze, first part was a thermistor a small PART took me longer to remove all the covers, and shelving, PULLED THE OLD OUT, CUT THE WIERS TO SIZE, AND REINSTALLED, IT WELL! THAT WASN'T ENOUGH THE FREEZER STILL DIDN'T FREEZE IT THOUT IT WAS A COOL WORMING OVEN, HAD TO INSTALL THE THERMISTOR I, SO I DID, TEN MIN, NOW I THOUGHT THAT WAS IT BECAUSE IT STAYED FROZEN FOR A WEAK, HAVE YOU EVER EATEN SOUPY ICE CREAM? SO BACK TO PARTS SELECT, THIS TIME I BOUGHT ONE MORE PT, THE RUN CAPACITOR, FIVE MIN, THAT/S ALL IT TOOK TO INSTALL. I DID NOT KNOW AT THE TIME YOU NEED THE THREE OF THEM TO RUN THE FREEZER ONE TO KEEP THE TEMP., ONE TO KEEP THE FAN RUNNING THE WAY IT SHOULD, AND THE THIRD TO MAKE SURE THE OTHER TWO KEEP RUNNING. NOW I CAN SET IT AT 4- 5 AND. FREEZE.

Removed cover exposing defrost heater. Defrosted the cooling system. Removed screws holding defroster, replaced old with new, by way of two quick connect eletrical clips. replaced cover. Pretty easy once I figured our that it was the defroster and not the timer.

I watched the video online and it said there were three sensors in the refrigerator, two in the freezer and one in the refrigerator. I only ordered one sensor and was going to try the one in the refrigerator first. He said the upper one in the freezer is the most difficult, but is usually the problem. So, I replaced the upper sensor and tried restarting the unit. Everything went well and it fixed the problem.