GSS25LSLNCSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Changing out solenoid was very easy, but you don't have to remove trim ring and it didn't fix my problem. Turns out a relay fell out of its holder in the piece you have after removing the 4 screws per the video.

I removed the cover on the back of the freezer side of refrigerator to expose the anti freeze element use the hair blow dryer to melt the ice on the coils put 2 towels to colect the water thats wath take me time, to replace the heath element was a 1 minute job.

I am going to start by talking about the problems. I woke up one beautiful morning around 4 am and grabbed my breakfast and coffee. I was not happy and realized there was a problem when the milk was almost as warm as the coffee. I was confused because I could hear the compressor running and the freezer was cold. On line directed me the right direction but I did not want to believe it. I did eventually confirm the evaporator coils in the freezer were frozen over because the heater was evap coil defrost heater was burnt out (multi-meter). I never realized a refridgerator had a heater, weird. The water dispenser in the freezer door had been freezing up for the past year. I could never find a real problem or solution to fix it. I did not find anything relating the evaporator coils freezing over causing the water line to freeze but thinking about the problem it made sense. The freezer was much cooler than it needed to be to cool the fresh food side. The temp control ensures the freezer is at least a certain temp, it did not limit how cold it would get. The hardest part of the repair was waiting for the part. I installation and reassembly of the freezer was easy. I replaced the cooling fan because the old one looked a little chewed up on the sides. It was not recommended or required. After the repair I was able to feel good airflow in the upper freezer and in the fresh food compartment. I think the fix will effect the temperature, the water line and also should help me get more ice from the ice maker (the freezer ducting feeds cold air to the ice maker area). Good luck.

I watched the video online and it said there were three sensors in the refrigerator, two in the freezer and one in the refrigerator. I only ordered one sensor and was going to try the one in the refrigerator first. He said the upper one in the freezer is the most difficult, but is usually the problem. So, I replaced the upper sensor and tried restarting the unit. Everything went well and it fixed the problem.

Defrost heater turned black. Test showed infinite resistance. Problem went away after the heater was replaced.

Went on this site, found out many others like me had the flap door stuck open problem, it would not shut after you went for ice. I needed a new solenoid that opens when the ice is dispenced and closes afterwards not allowing the warm ambient air to come up the shoot which frosts the ice and melts it. It shipped QUICK and now I have a working ice maker dispenser from the outside. Its been 2 YEARS of opening the door and reaching into the ice maker bin for ice! Thanks PartSelect

with a small screwdriver push in tabs in upword movement to remove the face cover for the three botons of ice crushed ice and water .
once removed remove four screw to take out the circular door .
solinoid plunger will be atached to the door and it has to screws holding the solinoid .
instolation is the oposit steps of removing the part

I used a mirror to locate the two small plastic tabs located on the underside of the ice dispenser light. I used a small flat blade screwdirver to push the plastic tabs forward to release the ice/water selector unit. I read about someone that did not see the tabs and ended up removing the inside of the freezer door, a two hour task! The ice and water control unit then slides out. remove the four rusty screws holding the dispensert and ice chute, the selenoid isthen easy to see.
Just replace the solenoid if your are having problems, I tried to lube it but to now avail. There is some rust in there so good time to clean up and put new screws in. Be care when removing the plastic lock tab on the circut board it breaks easely. If it does no big deal just make sure the connection is pushed in all the way. test your handy work before buttoning up. The solenoid comes with a new plunger so don't worry about cleaning the old one. The screws do not come with.

I replaced the original solenoid, which had rusted into one solid piece. OMG how easy was that!

Cut old tubing in frig with wire cutters and pulled through the bottom wall and removed old tnak from the wall...Installed new tank and ran tubing down trough lower wall and connected to the valve and the freezer door.

Let me start by saying, I usually hire something like this out but figured I would give it a try. The install was fairly straight forward, however it would’ve been nice if the instructions would have been more useful. Instructing me to remove one screw to release the auger and solenoid enclosure wouldve been nice. There were 3 other screws that I didn’t need to remove and they were the ones holding the auger in place, which made assembling that much more difficult. Once to enclosure was removed, and the solenoid was exposed, it was a seemless process. I would however, recommend paying attention to or taking a picture of the connections on the solenoid. I was lucky to remember or got lucky. Regardless, I was able to complete the project successfully. If I had to do it again, I believe it can be done in 30 minutes or less.

First, turn off power - since I did not want to pull the refrigerator out on my wood floor I tripped the circuit breaker to that circuit and opened door to make sure interior light was off (ensuring power was off). This unit has a bottom freezer, I took out all shelves, ice maker and all parts in the way of accessing back of interior of freezer section. Removed back plastic section by removing one screw in middle top of back panel and prying it out. This was a bit difficult as it was in there a bit tight but once the plastic warmed up it pulled out ok. This revealed the compressor section and temp sensor that was attached to the copper coils with of all things - a zip tie! In pictures of this that I looked at on various web sites the sensor was on a metal bracket attached to the coil so it made me wonder if tf the factory took a shortcut? I cut the old sensor wire, stripped the two wires 1/2", and connected them to the new sensor wire with butt connectors, I put some silicone into the ends of the butt connectors to prevent moisture from entering into connectors and wrapped the connection in black electrical tape. I then "attached" the sensor to the coil using a zip tie, put the plastic back piece back on, inserted everything I took out and put power back to refrigerator. It's been 3 days and temp of refrigerator is stable, ice maker not clogging up, and compressor not running all the time! So far so good.

First I removed the ice tray rack lifting it out of the way to reach the back cover of the fan. Then, the whole back inside panel had to be removed. Two screws removed the fan and bracket from the freezer unit. The missing bumper lid just snapped into place. Replaced everything in reverse order. Pretty easy job.

Replacing was easy. Cleaning took the longest. Order screws with parts, I could not find them at the hardware store. I suggest a coat of oil (3 in one) on the solenoid/piston surfaces. I probably did not have to replace them. The rust was inhibiting the piston movement. Some steel wool and oil would have probably fixed it. If the flap closing starts sounding softer, I'm going to take it apart and clean it first.

Easy order, fast delivery, two screws, done.