CWE19SP3NKD1 General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Eric from NEW YORK, NY
- Parts Used:
- WR02X10520
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Noisy refrigerator
I visually inspected the compressor and narrowed down the source of the noise to the freezer area. Then I removed the doors and the screws securing the divider panel. Next I removed the bottom panel of the freezer, the styrofoam insullation panel and the evaporator motor. The motor is mounted between two grommets. I replaced the grommet facing the fan blades. The aluminum reflector below the styrofoam insulation panel had also come loose. I reattached it and reassembled the refrigerator in reverse order. The noise is gone!
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- Customer:
- David from PORT ST LUCIE, FL
- Parts Used:
- WR57X30890
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench set
No water to door or ice maker
Followed steps found on YouTube. The only missing instruction was to remove the small retaining clip from the water tube inlets to allow you to press the retaining circle down to release the tube
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- Customer:
- clyde from RIALTO, CA
- Parts Used:
- WR60X24484, WR60X10209
- Difficulty Level:
- Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
freezer drop temp to 12 degrees.recommended temp zero.
Replace the motor fan on condenser and clean the condenser
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- Customer:
- Bert from SAN JOSE, CA
- Parts Used:
- WR60X30922
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
INTERMITENT LOUD NOISE FROM EVAPORATOR FAN IN FREEZER
The repair did not go exactly the way it was described in the YouTube video, but basically it was similar. After unplugging the power cord, emptying the freezer, removing the shelves and the ice reservoir, I removed the ice maker assembly by unscrewing a Philips head screw and unplugging the power connector. The connector had little retaining tabs on each side that I pried open with a straight blade screwdriver. Then the ice maker lifted right out. Next I removed one screw holding the auger motor assembly, unplugged the power connector, and lifted out the assembly. This where things got difficult. After flailing around a bit, I removed the panel on the back wall of the freezer below the evaporator fan assembly, exposing the evaporator coil. I saw that the fan assembly was attached with two screws at the top and two screws at the bottom. The top screws were easily removed, but when I removed the bottom screws, which were situated in very tight quarters, I DROPPED BOTH SCREWS DOWN BEHIND THE EVAPORATOR COIL. Be prepared with a magnetic nutdriver so this doesn't happen to you. I could not retrieve the lost screws, but fortunately it appears that the top screws hold the assembly securely enough. The assembly was loose, but it was still attached by a power cord that I could not disconnect. I removed the tracks on the side walls for the ice bucket, and then I could maneuver the fan motor assembly just enough that I could reach over the top of it, grab and pull off the old fan blade, and slide the new fan blade onto the shaft. Reassembly was straightforward, replacing each part (except two lost screws) in reverse order to disassembly. After getting everything put back in and plugging in the power cord, I was amazed at how quiet it ran.
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- Customer:
- charles from SCOTTSDALE, AZ
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10025
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Defrost not working coil iced up
Removed back wall cover over coil. Defrost all ice with a hair dryer. Cut white wires and replaced Temperature Sensor. It has been working for a week and no trouble at this time. If you have this system on your GE refrigerator do this before replacing the motherboard. I must admit I was thinking that was the trouble. Motherboard was replaced after 5 years old now 5 years later my thinking is this a 5 year problem. So try the Temperature Sensor.
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- Customer:
- laura from ANNA, IL
- Parts Used:
- WR71X38291
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Broken door shelf
Snapped broken one out, snapped new one in. Flawless.
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- Customer:
- randall from coopersville, MI
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10025
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
refriderator not cooling consistetly
1 opened door 2. pryed cover off from cieling 3.cut and stripped wires on 4. sodered wires from old wires to new sensor. 5 insulated conection.6 put cover back on. This did not fix the problem it was the control moduel.
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- Customer:
- Rene from HEBER, CA
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10025
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers
condenser icing refrigerator warm freezer ok
follow the easy instructions replace 3 temperature sensors cut the wires and crimp them with new sensor and it works like new
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- Customer:
- Harry from DURYEA, PA
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10025
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
both freezer and refigerator were warm.
I watched the video online and it said there were three sensors in the refrigerator, two in the freezer and one in the refrigerator. I only ordered one sensor and was going to try the one in the refrigerator first. He said the upper one in the freezer is the most difficult, but is usually the problem. So, I replaced the upper sensor and tried restarting the unit. Everything went well and it fixed the problem.
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- Customer:
- Stefanie from Algona, WA
- Parts Used:
- WR30X35287
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
It stopped making ice
Put the new part in. It only took 1 screw to remove and replace. there were a couple of plastic parts that needed to be transferred to the new part. they just slipped on.
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- Customer:
- Barbara from EASTON, PA
- Parts Used:
- WR71X38291
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
The refrigerator door handle broke
I Googled how to fix a ge door handle. It was super easy. Just slide it up, take it off and replace by putting the new one in place and sliding down till it clicks.
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- Customer:
- Joseph from AMELIA CT HSE, VA
- Parts Used:
- WR71X38291
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Door shelf cracked
Removed and replaced correct item received however one was cracked right out of undamaged properly packed box submitted claim and refund quickly processed by the seller recommend inspect upon receipt.
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- Customer:
- Thomas from SARASOTA, FL
- Parts Used:
- WR71X38291
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Replaced door shelf
Just placed the shelf on the door
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- Customer:
- Gerald from Shelton, CT
- Parts Used:
- WR82X10103
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
brand new ge refrigerator delivered with broken access cover. cost 6.95 so i repaced it myself.
removed 6 screws and repaced cover.
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- Customer:
- Mark from ROSEMOUNT, MN
- Parts Used:
- WR55X10025
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Refrigerator not defrosting, ice tray clogging up in ice tray, refrigerator making loud humming noise, and compressed running all the time.
First, turn off power - since I did not want to pull the refrigerator out on my wood floor I tripped the circuit breaker to that circuit and opened door to make sure interior light was off (ensuring power was off). This unit has a bottom freezer, I took out all shelves, ice maker and all parts in the way of accessing back of interior of freezer section. Removed back plastic section by removing one screw in middle top of back panel and prying it out. This was a bit difficult as it was in there a bit tight but once the plastic warmed up it pulled out ok. This revealed the compressor section and temp sensor that was attached to the copper coils with of all things - a zip tie! In pictures of this that I looked at on various web sites the sensor was on a metal bracket attached to the coil so it made me wonder if tf the factory took a shortcut? I cut the old sensor wire, stripped the two wires 1/2", and connected them to the new sensor wire with butt connectors, I put some silicone into the ends of the butt connectors to prevent moisture from entering into connectors and wrapped the connection in black electrical tape. I then "attached" the sensor to the coil using a zip tie, put the plastic back piece back on, inserted everything I took out and put power back to refrigerator. It's been 3 days and temp of refrigerator is stable, ice maker not clogging up, and compressor not running all the time! So far so good.
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